Andúril 2 coming to Sofirn - The general Sofirn development thread

Yes, +1 for the LH351D's.

The LH351D 4000K 90+ CRI's look great in the SP36 (just updated tonight). I hit about 4700 lumens on not fully charged VTC6 cells.

+2 for the SST-20s 4000k

Their tint and R9 color rendering is even better than the LH351Ds, are easier to find in China, and a bit cheaper, and are way throwier than the LH351D.

BTW, @TomE, have you received the SST-20s yet?

I would like to see something similar to the Nitecore MH20GT, but with USB C charging with Narsil or ramping UI like current SP32 V2.

I would like to see something similar to the NITECORE LR30 (replaceable 18650 or 21700, and maybe even a version 26650), but in the aluminum body, perhaps slightly larger for a heat sink, and HiCRI Warm or Neutral white.

Hope this helps

No, not yet - don't have a tracking #.

Lumens - how does the SST-20 compare to the LH351D in lumens in real flashlights? SST-20's have to be defined for what they are. They compare great against a 219B or 219C in the 3000K/4000K high CRI version, but it's the SST-20 5000K/6500K that does better in throw than a XPL HI, slightly lower than a XPL HI in lumens. The SST-20 4000K has less lumens than a XP-G2 S4 and about the same throw.

The SST-20 5000K/6500K seems to be a great stock 3V thrower with a slight sacrifice of lumens compared to a XPL HI.

The SST-20 3000K/4000K is also a great thrower for what it is, but considering it's high CRI, it sacrifices lumens and throw to get there.

Using the only real world comparison I know of from here: https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4s-26650-high-power-led-flashlight-p-932.html, though wish they had the LH351D 4000K 90+ CRI in the mix.

From the D4S listing:

OTF lumen output and candela at start-up

XP-G2 S4 : 3300lm / 40,000cd

Nichia 219C : 3000lm / 20,000cd

XP-L HI : 4300lm / 45,000cd

XP-L HD : 5100lm / 27,000cd

SST-20 6500K: 4200lm / 58,000cd

SST-20 5000K: 4000lm / 55,000cd

SST-20 4000K/3000K 95CRI: 3000lm / 41,000cd

You can find more Sofirn manuals on my sharepoint, both in English and German language:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1e1IWuBMaDQu-YjuigGpMwdUPErdUrMhe?usp=sharing

Upcoming manuals are yet to be included and therefore marked in brackets

I’d be interested in a C8F triple 21700 with side e-switch only and shorter tailcap.

Emitters: 4000K-5000K, high CRI (such as SST-20 4000K 95CRI). Bonus points for under BBL.

Colours: dark grey, dark green/khaki, sand/tan, maybe even silver/clear.

UI: I haven’t used the current C8F UI but my preference would be Anduril or NarsilM so I don’t have to remember yet another UI!

To put it into perspective djozz measured a Q8 LH351D w/ bypass at the following numbers:

4990 lm at 3 seconds, 4760 lm at 30 seconds

It isn’t comparable to a D4S directly but it does compare to what you already know about XP-L HD. I’d guess no less than 4,000lm

We just need some apples to apples comparison for lumens and throw. I'm sure there's a big difference between a 5000K 80+ CRI and 4000K 90+ CRI LH351D. That D4S page is the only listing I know that really, in theory, is a great comparative list, though we know nothing of the specifics on those tests - cells, measurement equipment, methods, etc.

That was for a LH351D 4000K 90CRI

The 80CRI has a significant jump in output and the 70CRI even more since it comes in the highest bin:

Here are my own 18650 C8F builds (LH351D 80CRI vs XP-L2 70CRI): What did you mod today? - #5269 by contactcr

I have also built Jaxman E2L triples with most of these at some point, going through my post history:

LH351D 4000K 90CRI:
~3,300lm at startup

SST-20 J4 4000K 95CRI:
~2,400lm at startup

+1

Also I would like 21700 version and (personal preference) Samsung LH351D 4000K 90+ CRI or SST-20 4000K 90+ CRI option.

It could have a little bigger reflector size, i.e. like Lumintop GT micro

I think it would be first on the market: 21700 palm size thrower

Has anyone built a C8F with XP-G3 4.000K yet? AFAIH, the 4000K is not subject to have such a horrible tint shift as the 5.700K/6.500K ones. Didn't Sofirn want to launch the C8F with XP-G3 in the very beginning but eventually decided otherwise?

no point in low CRI XPG3, we have the Luxeon V2 for that

I used to think charging ports on lights were useful but now I have more lights (and more chargers) not so much. I can still see uses for them but generally I would prefer not to have it. Simpler design, less things to break, lower cost.

I’ve also built a BLF Q8 with BeCu springs.

The light output is about 5200 lumens at 30 seconds with Samsung 30Qs at 4,17V.

With just a crappy rubber boot (that can open up when you look at it wrong, certainly when pulling the light out of a pocket, etc., or just tear off completely), to me built-in charging can be a drawback more than an advantage.

Oh, it’s absolutely convenient (easier to just carry a cable vs charger), but unless it’s done like the Zanflare F1 with screw-ring and O-rings sealing the port completely, it’s a liability.

So… that depends on the light and what I’d be using it for. Some lights it’d be convenient, others a liability. No clear way to delineate which group is which.

A muggle light like the SC31, hey, it’s great, let gramma just “plug it in” like her big-keypad cellphone and wait for the charging light to go green or whatever. A light that you want to be waterproof (not just “water-resistant”, which is nigh useless), forget it.

Think it was Marcus and the Armytek who showed that you can actually replace the battery in the light underwater(!!), but Hell if I’d ever want to do that unless I were trapped in a capsized sinking boat or something and my light just went out that particular moment.

Point? One man’s “feature” is another man’s “liability”.

/\1

I think there is another way to do USB charging safely and that is to hide uUSB port in tube threads, like Jetbeam E10R. I don’t say it is the best solution ever, but it is cheap, connector is protected and no flapping rubber