I would like to see something similar to the NITECORE LR30 (replaceable 18650 or 21700, and maybe even a version 26650), but in the aluminum body, perhaps slightly larger for a heat sink, and HiCRI Warm or Neutral white.
Lumens - how does the SST-20 compare to the LH351D in lumens in real flashlights? SST-20's have to be defined for what they are. They compare great against a 219B or 219C in the 3000K/4000K high CRI version, but it's the SST-20 5000K/6500K that does better in throw than a XPL HI, slightly lower than a XPL HI in lumens. The SST-20 4000K has less lumens than a XP-G2 S4 and about the same throw.
The SST-20 5000K/6500K seems to be a great stock 3V thrower with a slight sacrifice of lumens compared to a XPL HI.
The SST-20 3000K/4000K is also a great thrower for what it is, but considering it's high CRI, it sacrifices lumens and throw to get there.
We just need some apples to apples comparison for lumens and throw. I'm sure there's a big difference between a 5000K 80+ CRI and 4000K 90+ CRI LH351D. That D4S page is the only listing I know that really, in theory, is a great comparative list, though we know nothing of the specifics on those tests - cells, measurement equipment, methods, etc.
Has anyone built a C8F with XP-G3 4.000K yet? AFAIH, the 4000K is not subject to have such a horrible tint shift as the 5.700K/6.500K ones. Didn't Sofirn want to launch the C8F with XP-G3 in the very beginning but eventually decided otherwise?
I used to think charging ports on lights were useful but now I have more lights (and more chargers) not so much. I can still see uses for them but generally I would prefer not to have it. Simpler design, less things to break, lower cost.
With just a crappy rubber boot (that can open up when you look at it wrong, certainly when pulling the light out of a pocket, etc., or just tear off completely), to me built-in charging can be a drawback more than an advantage.
Oh, it’s absolutely convenient (easier to just carry a cable vs charger), but unless it’s done like the Zanflare F1 with screw-ring and O-rings sealing the port completely, it’s a liability.
So… that depends on the light and what I’d be using it for. Some lights it’d be convenient, others a liability. No clear way to delineate which group is which.
A muggle light like the SC31, hey, it’s great, let gramma just “plug it in” like her big-keypad cellphone and wait for the charging light to go green or whatever. A light that you want to be waterproof (not just “water-resistant”, which is nigh useless), forget it.
Think it was Marcus and the Armytek who showed that you can actually replace the battery in the light underwater(!!), but Hell if I’d ever want to do that unless I were trapped in a capsized sinking boat or something and my light just went out that particular moment.
Point? One man’s “feature” is another man’s “liability”.
I think there is another way to do USB charging safely and that is to hide uUSB port in tube threads, like Jetbeam E10R. I don’t say it is the best solution ever, but it is cheap, connector is protected and no flapping rubber
Yea, the Nightwatch NA40/NA40SE (https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/54880/51) works the same way - port in the the thread. Even better that the charging circuitry is separate, built in to the battery tube assembly - pretty unique, though think it's been done before, like those tiny keychain lights sold under a ton of names.