FWIW, I haven’t had any issues with a Fireflies switch, or an Emisar switch, or Olight, or ZebraLight, or Sofirn, or any e-switch with a rubber cover.
I only have two lights where the switch doesn’t work sometimes… One is the Reylight Dawn, which tends to stick sometimes so it needs to be wiggled before it’ll make contact. The other is the FW3A prototype, which works reliably in the middle of the button but requires a firmer press on the edges. The former probably just needs some lube or sanding. The latter could easily be fixed by making the button narrower, but then it wouldn’t look as nice. And it doesn’t really have issues during normal use, since I tend to hit the button with a knuckle. It only fails to connect if I intentionally try to press at the very edge.
My first E07 made some clicking sounds, usually after being turn on for awhile.
It’s harmless. Just expansion of parts or air inside the bezel. After redoing the thermal compound on the star, my first E07 the clicking sounds are gone. And my second E07 never clicked in the first place.
Agreed. There’s no way anyone can possibly tell if the switch is too mushy without actually trying it out. For someone to say that the switch is “objectively” worse without actually ever having held the light or tried it just doesn’t pass the smell test.
I also agree with TK. I haven’t really had any significant problems with any rubber switches. They’re usually very simple and reliable.
The worst flashlight switches I’ve tried were the following:
I have an early Imalent light from a few years ago that has an infrared sensor for the “switch”. In practice, I found getting it to work would sometimes take 10+ tries. It was awful! Reminded me of someone trying to reinvent the wheel with a square shape just be different. Yuck!
My Sunwayman V11R came with the optional Titanium switch kit. The original V11R came with the titanium switch installed, but due to complaints they reverted to using the rubber switch. But they continued to ship the titanium parts in a little baggie as an optional switch. After trying it out I could see why people complained: The titanium switch sat in a titanium housing. Due to the design the switch would tend to tilt slightly. Titanium on Titanium tends to bind. The result: Looked great, but the button got stuck a lot and made a squeaky sound. Not very functional.
I’ve occasionally had electronic sideswitches lose their click. This usually happens when the membrane on top of the switch is damaged in a modding attempt. The switch usually still works, but isn’t very satisfying to press without any tactile click.
After buying my first “real” light (the D4) I bought a Klarus XT2CR where the secondary switch (micro push button) failed after 2 months of every day yet minor use.
Which SMD package size are the aux LEDs in the E07 approximately?
Mine did this also till I loosened the bezel some. I think if it’s torqued down the o-ring heats and expands and contracts causing the pops. After just snugging the bezel it quit and hasn’t done it since
When I was playing with the strobe mode, I must have accidentally switched the ramping from smooth to stepped. I’ve tried to follow the instructions to get it back to smooth ramping, but I’ve been unsuccessful. Any advice for me to get it back to smooth ramping?
That’s tough to gauge. I ordered on December 5th, but in fairness to Fireflies, they said that the “clear” anodized version wouldn’t be available to ship until late December. So in my opinion, they promptly shipped, but the tracking just sucked. Three weeks is a fair assessment as they seem to have shipped as soon as it was available.
Yeah, the tracking is pretty useless, but the overall timeframe doesn’t seem to be too bad. Did your light arrive?
No, I messaged him on Facebook several days ago, and asked him to raise hell with fireflies. He answered me back immediately, which is when I pointed him to all these threads and reddit so he could see what was going on. He had no idea, and I don’t think fireflies did either for that matter.
is it also safe to say the ff 40T with the bottom ring are fakes now? At full charge IR measures 11 with the AC method on my ff 40T as tested on a SM8124A. Right now, I'm ok if they are fakes as long as they are safe.
You’d have to ask them why they didn’t test them. I have no idea. But I can “speculate”, that FF had either no idea about fakes, trusted a vendor to be truthful, or they knew and felt confident they wouldn’t get caught. One of the three.
But judging from the convo I had with Neal, he had no idea FF’s was shipping counterfeit batteries to his customers.
