Is there a howto on redoing the thermal paste, how difficult is it and what thermal paste is recommended?
I checked the count on available SMD emitters and found I was one short on Blue, so Orange it is! 
After buying my first “real” light (the D4) I bought a Klarus XT2CR where the secondary switch (micro push button) failed after 2 months of every day yet minor use.
Which SMD package size are the aux LEDs in the E07 approximately?
My little camera’s are having trouble with this, might have to break out a big camera…
Mine did this also till I loosened the bezel some. I think if it’s torqued down the o-ring heats and expands and contracts causing the pops. After just snugging the bezel it quit and hasn’t done it since
When I was playing with the strobe mode, I must have accidentally switched the ramping from smooth to stepped. I’ve tried to follow the instructions to get it back to smooth ramping, but I’ve been unsuccessful. Any advice for me to get it back to smooth ramping?
With the light on click 3 times - that’s it
From on click 3 times.
Also TK wrote an Anduril user manual. It’s very helpful.
3 button presses
That’s tough to gauge. I ordered on December 5th, but in fairness to Fireflies, they said that the “clear” anodized version wouldn’t be available to ship until late December. So in my opinion, they promptly shipped, but the tracking just sucked. Three weeks is a fair assessment as they seem to have shipped as soon as it was available.
Yeah, the tracking is pretty useless, but the overall timeframe doesn’t seem to be too bad. Did your light arrive?
Much obliged! That was waaay more simple than I thought it would be.
No, I messaged him on Facebook several days ago, and asked him to raise hell with fireflies. He answered me back immediately, which is when I pointed him to all these threads and reddit so he could see what was going on. He had no idea, and I don’t think fireflies did either for that matter.
Ok then.
Why didn’t they even test the cells when they acquired them?
Especially for cells that cost 15$US.
is it also safe to say the ff 40T with the bottom ring are fakes now? At full charge IR measures 11 with the AC method on my ff 40T as tested on a SM8124A. Right now, I'm ok if they are fakes as long as they are safe.
You’d have to ask them why they didn’t test them. I have no idea. But I can “speculate”, that FF had either no idea about fakes, trusted a vendor to be truthful, or they knew and felt confident they wouldn’t get caught. One of the three.
But judging from the convo I had with Neal, he had no idea FF’s was shipping counterfeit batteries to his customers.
Yeah it’s problematic.
I have an impression Fireflies also paid quite a bit for these cells.
Hope they can get a partial/full refund from the place they bought it from, and refund buyers.
Firelight i saw a post on reddit where someone got mismatched xp-l hi’s. It may not be tint lottery you might just have two wrong leds. Its actually more likely cuz im not sure it would be obvious in moon unless the cct was way off.
You’re probably right.
My first E07 actually does have two XPL HIs that appear a different tint when looking into the bezel on moonlight mode. It’s instantly obvious.
In any event, I quite like the result. I actually already had mismatched LEDs that I’d modded into a couple my Emisar D4 lights and I really like how it improves the beam.
I bet the clicking is due to the extra hot pcb not making good contact. The heat is causing the pcb to flex, pushing on the optic/aux pcb, causing the clicking. Something like that.
I bet the clicking is due to the extra hot pcb not making good contact. The heat is causing the pcb to flex, pushing on the optic/aux pcb, causing the clicking. Something like that.
I wondered the same thing . Gotta be some flexing there .
Dang it , why can’t I make the quote work right ! 