Mine did this also till I loosened the bezel some. I think if it’s torqued down the o-ring heats and expands and contracts causing the pops. After just snugging the bezel it quit and hasn’t done it since
When I was playing with the strobe mode, I must have accidentally switched the ramping from smooth to stepped. I’ve tried to follow the instructions to get it back to smooth ramping, but I’ve been unsuccessful. Any advice for me to get it back to smooth ramping?
With the light on click 3 times - that’s it
From on click 3 times.
Also TK wrote an Anduril user manual. It’s very helpful.
3 button presses
That’s tough to gauge. I ordered on December 5th, but in fairness to Fireflies, they said that the “clear” anodized version wouldn’t be available to ship until late December. So in my opinion, they promptly shipped, but the tracking just sucked. Three weeks is a fair assessment as they seem to have shipped as soon as it was available.
Yeah, the tracking is pretty useless, but the overall timeframe doesn’t seem to be too bad. Did your light arrive?
Much obliged! That was waaay more simple than I thought it would be.
No, I messaged him on Facebook several days ago, and asked him to raise hell with fireflies. He answered me back immediately, which is when I pointed him to all these threads and reddit so he could see what was going on. He had no idea, and I don’t think fireflies did either for that matter.
Ok then.
Why didn’t they even test the cells when they acquired them?
Especially for cells that cost 15$US.
is it also safe to say the ff 40T with the bottom ring are fakes now? At full charge IR measures 11 with the AC method on my ff 40T as tested on a SM8124A. Right now, I'm ok if they are fakes as long as they are safe.
You’d have to ask them why they didn’t test them. I have no idea. But I can “speculate”, that FF had either no idea about fakes, trusted a vendor to be truthful, or they knew and felt confident they wouldn’t get caught. One of the three.
But judging from the convo I had with Neal, he had no idea FF’s was shipping counterfeit batteries to his customers.
Yeah it’s problematic.
I have an impression Fireflies also paid quite a bit for these cells.
Hope they can get a partial/full refund from the place they bought it from, and refund buyers.
Firelight i saw a post on reddit where someone got mismatched xp-l hi’s. It may not be tint lottery you might just have two wrong leds. Its actually more likely cuz im not sure it would be obvious in moon unless the cct was way off.
You’re probably right.
My first E07 actually does have two XPL HIs that appear a different tint when looking into the bezel on moonlight mode. It’s instantly obvious.
In any event, I quite like the result. I actually already had mismatched LEDs that I’d modded into a couple my Emisar D4 lights and I really like how it improves the beam.
I bet the clicking is due to the extra hot pcb not making good contact. The heat is causing the pcb to flex, pushing on the optic/aux pcb, causing the clicking. Something like that.
I bet the clicking is due to the extra hot pcb not making good contact. The heat is causing the pcb to flex, pushing on the optic/aux pcb, causing the clicking. Something like that.
I wondered the same thing . Gotta be some flexing there .
Dang it , why can’t I make the quote work right ! 
@DB Custom: I should have stated I own a ROT66 and assume the switches are the same. Edit: after closer looking the E07 switch seems to protrude a bit and have some kind of ribbing on it, can anyone who has both lights tell if they are the same or different. Why it would withhold me from buying? Because I’m a perfectionist and spoiled by both the ZL switches and the shimmed switches of the Clemence’s E21A Wizard’s ; )
When using the ROT in both winter and climbing gloves I feel and hear no click at all while clicking the Wizard is very responsive by both feeling the switch through the gloves.
If you are a perfectionist: the E07 is not perfect as you probably already read on this forum. It is a great design en very desirable but it is a new flashlight that has some significant shortcomings still. Apart from that, I do not think that Fireflies can maintain the consistent production tolerances of Zebralight. Nothing wrong with that but if you are finicky about the exact feel of the switch button, buying the E07 may be a lucky dip :party:
I only have the FF E07 Nichia 219B (ordered from Neal), but using my “shine light thru a portable USB fan blades” method, I notice that on Turbo mode, NoPWM is detected, same as the Regulated mode (first insert battery into the flashlight).
Unlike the D4S (I’ve tested the D4S with Nichia 219C and the D4S with XPL-Hi).
On the D4S with Nichia 219C, even Turbo mode will show PWM using the “portable fan” method. (Only the regulated mode will have NoPWM)
On the D4S with XPL-Hi, Turbo mode will have NoPWM (also NoPWM on the “regulated” mode).
This would imply that the E07 Nichia 219B didn’t have a multiplier value (75% or 80% on the D4S Nichia 219C) on Turbo mode. (Or could this be only on the early batch E07 Nichia 219B?)
have you tried cleaning your tip?
It does take a while.
Here is good video about it
