Fireflies E07 preview

is it also safe to say the ff 40T with the bottom ring are fakes now? At full charge IR measures 11 with the AC method on my ff 40T as tested on a SM8124A. Right now, I'm ok if they are fakes as long as they are safe.

You’d have to ask them why they didn’t test them. I have no idea. But I can “speculate”, that FF had either no idea about fakes, trusted a vendor to be truthful, or they knew and felt confident they wouldn’t get caught. One of the three.

But judging from the convo I had with Neal, he had no idea FF’s was shipping counterfeit batteries to his customers.

Yeah it’s problematic.

I have an impression Fireflies also paid quite a bit for these cells.

Hope they can get a partial/full refund from the place they bought it from, and refund buyers.

Firelight i saw a post on reddit where someone got mismatched xp-l hi’s. It may not be tint lottery you might just have two wrong leds. Its actually more likely cuz im not sure it would be obvious in moon unless the cct was way off.

You’re probably right.

My first E07 actually does have two XPL HIs that appear a different tint when looking into the bezel on moonlight mode. It’s instantly obvious.

In any event, I quite like the result. I actually already had mismatched LEDs that I’d modded into a couple my Emisar D4 lights and I really like how it improves the beam.

I bet the clicking is due to the extra hot pcb not making good contact. The heat is causing the pcb to flex, pushing on the optic/aux pcb, causing the clicking. Something like that.

I bet the clicking is due to the extra hot pcb not making good contact. The heat is causing the pcb to flex, pushing on the optic/aux pcb, causing the clicking. Something like that.

I wondered the same thing . Gotta be some flexing there .

Dang it , why can’t I make the quote work right ! :person_facepalming:

@DB Custom: I should have stated I own a ROT66 and assume the switches are the same. Edit: after closer looking the E07 switch seems to protrude a bit and have some kind of ribbing on it, can anyone who has both lights tell if they are the same or different. Why it would withhold me from buying? Because I’m a perfectionist and spoiled by both the ZL switches and the shimmed switches of the Clemence’s E21A Wizard’s ; )

When using the ROT in both winter and climbing gloves I feel and hear no click at all while clicking the Wizard is very responsive by both feeling the switch through the gloves.

If you are a perfectionist: the E07 is not perfect as you probably already read on this forum. It is a great design en very desirable but it is a new flashlight that has some significant shortcomings still. Apart from that, I do not think that Fireflies can maintain the consistent production tolerances of Zebralight. Nothing wrong with that but if you are finicky about the exact feel of the switch button, buying the E07 may be a lucky dip :party:

I only have the FF E07 Nichia 219B (ordered from Neal), but using my “shine light thru a portable USB fan blades” method, I notice that on Turbo mode, NoPWM is detected, same as the Regulated mode (first insert battery into the flashlight).

Unlike the D4S (I’ve tested the D4S with Nichia 219C and the D4S with XPL-Hi).
On the D4S with Nichia 219C, even Turbo mode will show PWM using the “portable fan” method. (Only the regulated mode will have NoPWM)
On the D4S with XPL-Hi, Turbo mode will have NoPWM (also NoPWM on the “regulated” mode).

This would imply that the E07 Nichia 219B didn’t have a multiplier value (75% or 80% on the D4S Nichia 219C) on Turbo mode. (Or could this be only on the early batch E07 Nichia 219B?)

have you tried cleaning your tip?
It does take a while.
Here is good video about it

I wanted to clean up the huge solder blob on the driver spring on my e07 lights, and I figured I would snap a picture the best I could while I had the driver opened up.

After cleaning the solder blob on the driver spring there is more space for the battery.

I also learned the shelf the LED MCPCB sits on is very thick, must be almost 10mm thick. I also appreciate how well the PCB boards are made, the feel really high quality compared to some of the others I have seen.


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I think there are 2 things in that.
First, thermal path between LED and fingers is short, so temp difference is small. This is good for the LED durability and efficiency. This is good for sustained performance. This is not good for Turbo - because material close to the LED doesn’t heat up quite as much (and therfore - doesn’t store as much heat).
Second - the thermal path to your fingers is way shorter than to some other parts of the light. Suddently the thermal barrier of threads becomes a much bigger part of the setup and less heat spreads there before the head becomes too hot.

I believe the best of both worlds is to have as much conductivity as possible…but thermally insulate the touch points, especially near the shelf. Note that you don’t need to insulate untouchable parts like (near-) bottom of deep fins.
And furthermore - to have as few barriers as possible, so heat can spread easier. Unibody is a win…

Netprince, How did you pop the driver out and are you extending the led wires from driver to make it easier to re assemble?

I pushed it out using the stick from a QTip. (its kind of soft plastic, or hard paper, not sure which).

I replaced both the + and - wires, but it should be possible to re-use the stock wires. The smaller wires I just needed help for re-assembly.

I wonder if it would be better to move the switch LEDs all over to the MCU so that they can all be controlled to go off and work with LVP.

I’m actually surprised Dale didn’t do this

a friend received this one a day ago and had a look....

Some observations:

  • Having a “hot-headed” light is more an issue for the fingers with sideswitch lights. Stick a FET driver in a Manker E14 and the head can get burning hot. But this is ok, because you can hold the light by the body and the switch is in the tail. On the other hand, consider the Astrolux S42: having a burning hot copper head that you have to touch to get to the switch doesn’t work out well.
  • I agree unibody construction out of aluminum works best. It’s one of the reasons why Zebralights work so well. I’m hoping Emisar makes a unibody light with a head the size of a D4 and tube sized for 21700. Result would be a compact EDC with more capacity, output and better heatsinking than a D4. Oh and while they’re at it they should make sure the tube has knurling.
  • Protecting the fingers can work. Perhaps a copper heatsink head with cage around it made from plastic. If done right the copper heatsink could get burning hot and the light would still be relatively safe if the cage kept it away from fingers. The button would also similarly need to be protected. If the cage were done right there should still be enough exposed copper to get the heat out of the heatsink to atmosphere.

I think all of them look like that. I haven’t seen a single picture that shows a stock star with a film of thermal compound on it. I don’t think we’ll see compound on the bottom of the star until their latest revision using much more compound hits the market.

Last night I swapped the stars on my two E07s. Unfortunately, I’d used way too much Arctic Silver 5 on the first one. That star just didn’t want to come out. I could slide it back and forth, but trying to lift it up… ouch! Reminded me of those old denture cream commercials “Fixodent and Forget It!”

Eventually I managed to get it off and completed the switch. Used a much thinner layer of compound the second time.

If the copper MCPCB were a little smaller in diameter you’d see their thermal compound on the bottom. It’s not seating all the way down flat onto the emitter shelf. That’s all.