Fireflies E07 preview

I only have the FF E07 Nichia 219B (ordered from Neal), but using my “shine light thru a portable USB fan blades” method, I notice that on Turbo mode, NoPWM is detected, same as the Regulated mode (first insert battery into the flashlight).

Unlike the D4S (I’ve tested the D4S with Nichia 219C and the D4S with XPL-Hi).
On the D4S with Nichia 219C, even Turbo mode will show PWM using the “portable fan” method. (Only the regulated mode will have NoPWM)
On the D4S with XPL-Hi, Turbo mode will have NoPWM (also NoPWM on the “regulated” mode).

This would imply that the E07 Nichia 219B didn’t have a multiplier value (75% or 80% on the D4S Nichia 219C) on Turbo mode. (Or could this be only on the early batch E07 Nichia 219B?)

have you tried cleaning your tip?
It does take a while.
Here is good video about it

I wanted to clean up the huge solder blob on the driver spring on my e07 lights, and I figured I would snap a picture the best I could while I had the driver opened up.

After cleaning the solder blob on the driver spring there is more space for the battery.

I also learned the shelf the LED MCPCB sits on is very thick, must be almost 10mm thick. I also appreciate how well the PCB boards are made, the feel really high quality compared to some of the others I have seen.


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I think there are 2 things in that.
First, thermal path between LED and fingers is short, so temp difference is small. This is good for the LED durability and efficiency. This is good for sustained performance. This is not good for Turbo - because material close to the LED doesn’t heat up quite as much (and therfore - doesn’t store as much heat).
Second - the thermal path to your fingers is way shorter than to some other parts of the light. Suddently the thermal barrier of threads becomes a much bigger part of the setup and less heat spreads there before the head becomes too hot.

I believe the best of both worlds is to have as much conductivity as possible…but thermally insulate the touch points, especially near the shelf. Note that you don’t need to insulate untouchable parts like (near-) bottom of deep fins.
And furthermore - to have as few barriers as possible, so heat can spread easier. Unibody is a win…

Netprince, How did you pop the driver out and are you extending the led wires from driver to make it easier to re assemble?

I pushed it out using the stick from a QTip. (its kind of soft plastic, or hard paper, not sure which).

I replaced both the + and - wires, but it should be possible to re-use the stock wires. The smaller wires I just needed help for re-assembly.

I wonder if it would be better to move the switch LEDs all over to the MCU so that they can all be controlled to go off and work with LVP.

I’m actually surprised Dale didn’t do this

a friend received this one a day ago and had a look....

Some observations:

  • Having a “hot-headed” light is more an issue for the fingers with sideswitch lights. Stick a FET driver in a Manker E14 and the head can get burning hot. But this is ok, because you can hold the light by the body and the switch is in the tail. On the other hand, consider the Astrolux S42: having a burning hot copper head that you have to touch to get to the switch doesn’t work out well.
  • I agree unibody construction out of aluminum works best. It’s one of the reasons why Zebralights work so well. I’m hoping Emisar makes a unibody light with a head the size of a D4 and tube sized for 21700. Result would be a compact EDC with more capacity, output and better heatsinking than a D4. Oh and while they’re at it they should make sure the tube has knurling.
  • Protecting the fingers can work. Perhaps a copper heatsink head with cage around it made from plastic. If done right the copper heatsink could get burning hot and the light would still be relatively safe if the cage kept it away from fingers. The button would also similarly need to be protected. If the cage were done right there should still be enough exposed copper to get the heat out of the heatsink to atmosphere.

I think all of them look like that. I haven’t seen a single picture that shows a stock star with a film of thermal compound on it. I don’t think we’ll see compound on the bottom of the star until their latest revision using much more compound hits the market.

Last night I swapped the stars on my two E07s. Unfortunately, I’d used way too much Arctic Silver 5 on the first one. That star just didn’t want to come out. I could slide it back and forth, but trying to lift it up… ouch! Reminded me of those old denture cream commercials “Fixodent and Forget It!”

Eventually I managed to get it off and completed the switch. Used a much thinner layer of compound the second time.

If the copper MCPCB were a little smaller in diameter you’d see their thermal compound on the bottom. It’s not seating all the way down flat onto the emitter shelf. That’s all.

Finally, ImageShack is working again! :slight_smile:

Changed half the Aux LED’s to orange to complement the lavender or light purple look. . .

very nice dale

contactcr, I’m not that much a fan of the lighted switch to begin with so I won’t be making any changes there unless I just disable them altogether. The 4 lighted dots look neat, I like the color, but don’t care that much for the diagonally opposing action when in lockout with the aux LED’s off. I just turn the light around so they aren’t visible and don’t worry about it. :stuck_out_tongue:

Edit: LVP is something I never see in action anyway, so again it’s something I don’t use. Lighted or otherwise. :wink: I just don’t tend to let a cell get that far down.

but what I’m saying would fix both of your concerns. It would have all 4 lights either on or off, no “slash” and allow you to turn everything off and on with the firmware, right?

Looks great.

I still think I prefer blue outer ring and purple middle ring though.

You are correct that the E07 switch looks and feels the same as the ROT66. If you can’t stand the feel of the ROT66 switch, then the E07 is probably not for you.

Thanks for clarifying my doubts Firelight2.

Good idea:)

Quite an achievement to replace those leds