How in the world did you change those tiny things? You use a microscope or something? Wow 
Which SMD LED size did you use?
I used 0804’s but they had 0603’s on there. The bigger SMD barely clears.
No scope, no magnifier, no helping hands… pointy tweezers and my hot air station. Dropped one of the purple ones coming off and aliens ate it…
Thanks a lot! Now I can order some while the light is still shipping so I don’t have to wait ages.
I’m thinking of trying this. Will have to order some of those tiny LEDs though.
I notice $13 gets a giant bag of a bazillion different colors of these from Amazon.
Unlike Dale, I’d put the board in a vise or helping hands though. And I’d use reading glasses to magnify it enough so I can actually see the parts. 
Lol, you and me too Firelight2;)
Dale, did you happen to measure the screw size by any chance? I’m going replace mine when I fix the mcpcb, maybe with some allen heads. I believe someone mentioned M2, but didn’t say what the length was
I didn’t measure the screw length but it is imperative this is correct, it’s not a through hole threaded connection but a closed hole where a bottom tap was used. I know they aren’t 3mm, 2 is probably correct as I have 2.5 and those look too big as well. I’d have to pull one to get a length , thinking 4-5mm but until I put a caliper on one I can’t say for sure. They did have to get a shorter screw for the one in the optic hole as that hole in the board is larger and the head goes through the aux board.
If that shelf is 10mm thick like netprince mentioned, there should be plenty of room to drill and tap the holes deeper I would think.
All of mine are screwed into the correct places, but the screws are buggered up pretty good, and will need to be replaced after fixing it.
Filed down a #14 nickel-plated brass finishing washer tonight. Thinking of attaching it to my clear E07.
I don’t think the E07 really needs a washer to prevent accidental activation as the light is big enough it doesn’t move around in the pocket much and the button is small and flush. However, this washer would provide a little more protection and would make it easier to find the button by feel when reaching into a pocket.
The washer slightly overhangs the flat part of the light around the button. If I end up gluing it on I’ll try to fill up the gap so the lower edge can’t get caught on something.
Here is what it looks like not glued on yet:
That looks really nice Firelight, factory finish…. I think I’d glue it. 
Let me know if you find good replacements. Mine aren’t “too bad” but i’m sure I will make it worse before i’m done opening and closing my own.
Never liked the flat milled for the button on the final prototype. With the ring, it looks more like how they should have recessed it. It looks really nice even with sides not filled down.
I agree, looks great, and I bet it helps locate the button in the dark.
I received my E07 with Nichia and red aux. It’s beautiful. From what I’ve seen, the leg of the optic is broken too, so I expect it is one of those from the batch with the few flaws mentioned in this thread, I’ll have to fix the thermal paste issue. The Nichia units are probably all from the first batches anyway.
I have not received my 21700 yet, but couldn’t resist trying the torch out with a 18650 from my EDC Zebra SC600. Not sure why, but I thought 4 clicks from ON would bring me to the special modes, I wanted to try candle and lightning. I was wrong, it’s click/click/hold from OFF. Four clicks from ON led me to the configuration mode, and I am pretty sure I messed up with the floor and ceiling levels before I realized I was there. Is there any way to factory reset Anduril? Will it be the same settings as when the E07 came, or is the E07 set to special configuration?
Think I’ll go ahead and glue the washer on this weekend. Attaching a washer on a light like this and having it look good requires some care.
- First step is to remove battery and cover every part of the light except the switch with gaffers tape. Also make a circle of gaffer’s tape and stick it on top of the button. Make a mess with the epoxy and you might screw up your anodizing permanently. Better to mask everything off to be safe.
- Second step is to mix the epoxy. For this washer I’ll probably start with arctic silver thermal epoxy. Goal is to put a ring of epoxy inside the washer, but not have it totally filled, especially towards the center of the washer. It’s a mistake to put too much epoxy in as doing so can cause it to squish out to the sides when I press the washer down. Also, if excess glue does squish out I want it to squish to the outside of the ring, not the inside where it can make a mess on the button boot.
- Once the washer is in place, wipe off any excess on the outside parts of the light and neaten up any visible epoxy with a toothpick.
- The left and right side of the washer overhang the flashlight body slightly. This isn’t good as something might get caught on the lip and potentially break the glue knocking the washer off. To prevent this I plan to add epoxy filling in that gap. However, this will leave a small amount of epoxy completely visible on each side.
- It is possible that the Arctic Silver epoxy is a bit too dark grey to match with the very shiny aluminum. To preserve the aesthetic I will probably add a layer of shinier epoxy covering any sections of visible epoxy. I have some conductive silver epoxy which should work.
- Wait for the epoxy to cure, check that no further touchup is required, then remove the gaffer’s tape.
I'm pretty sure there is no factory reset in Anduril.
Thanks. Then maybe I can try to reset floor and ceiling to their original settings. Can anyone tell me what they are by default?
Ceiling default is 120, I think floor is 1.