So, with anything lower than 3000K, E21A is a better option. Better invest in longer regulated runtime. To the naked eyes its extremely hard to see any difference between 3000K and 2700K Optisolis vs 3000K and 2700K (mixed) E21A. From Maukka’s test graphs there’s indeed a substantial higher CRI in color samples. They come from different phosphors mix I guess. As Djozz observed a year ago, Optisolis is the first Nichia with green phosphors, other than obviously, single color green E21A. This green phosphor can be excited by normal 450nm LED too.
I think its great. All the added beamshots and tint comparisons make it alot easier to select preferred LED both for his products and any custom builds you chose to do on your own.
I have a few lights with e21a at this point with 4000k and 4500k and they are by far the best tinted and colour rendering lights I own!
Those are the pictures I promised from my earlier post. This is BLF, people value research, data, and test results. unlike the other forum out there.
Do you prefer I don’t share any information instead? I think I have a problem being an enthusiast and a seller at the same time. Can’t decide which one should I be.
Yes and no. I really like having the data to evaluate. However, it’s also possible to get the audiophile disease where you get lost in evaluating, and forget the real goal is to use and enjoy the product (it’s only a small percentage of audiophiles, of course, but they’re the ones who get noticed).
I’m currently thinking what I should do personally is just order each of the different emitters that potentially interests me on MCPCB’s, try them out on my work bench, and decide from that what my dream light is.
I will put E21A and Optisolis modules for DIY-ers to experiment themselves but take note:
- Jetusolis and JetuE21A lens holders are NOT interchangeable. I modified the lens holder of JetuE21A so much that you can’t use Optisolis with it. There’s a potential one could easily crush the Optisolis put in the JetuE21A.
You can use E21A/E17A LED modules in Jetusolis but the beam will be about 50% narrower and you’ll lose ~20% output.
I went back to look at this picture again, because it’s really cool to see the phosphors glowing under UV light, and I noticed something I missed before:
The E17A’s are all glowing, except what I assume is a blue one.
So I looked up the datasheets to see the spectrum graphs, and sure enough, they aren’t narrow monochromatic peaks, but relatively wide peaks. These are phosphor-converted color LED’s (except the blue).
I’m guessing the appearance is not the intense, highly saturated look we’re accustomed to with color LED’s, but more like a filtered incandescent? I’ve never quite liked LED Christmas lights as much as filtered incandescents, so I think that could be a good thing.