Sorry I must have missed it while going through the thread, but both the Optisolis and E21A models work well with nimh rechargables correct?
Correct, and that’s the only battery I recommend. Never ever use alkaleaks battery whenever possible to save your flashlights.
- Clemence
Excellent, I know some still prefer lithium primaries for AA/AAA lights so wanted to be sure.
E21A
E17A
Beam comparison. I shot under exposed (–2 stops) to show center beam better but that caused the tint over saturated
- Clemence
I consider myself an enthusiast but i’m starting to think clemence provides TOO much information about his products. Is that possible?
I think its great. All the added beamshots and tint comparisons make it alot easier to select preferred LED both for his products and any custom builds you chose to do on your own.
I have a few lights with e21a at this point with 4000k and 4500k and they are by far the best tinted and colour rendering lights I own!
but that ruins the surprise when you order from a no name company and they describe the tint as “yellow-white” or something
Those are the pictures I promised from my earlier post. This is BLF, people value research, data, and test results. unlike the other forum out there.
Do you prefer I don’t share any information instead? I think I have a problem being an enthusiast and a seller at the same time. Can’t decide which one should I be.
- Clemence
Of course I think more information is better. I’m only joking
However, it does just drive me deeper into this rabbit hole digesting all of this new information
Yes and no. I really like having the data to evaluate. However, it’s also possible to get the audiophile disease where you get lost in evaluating, and forget the real goal is to use and enjoy the product (it’s only a small percentage of audiophiles, of course, but they’re the ones who get noticed).
I’m currently thinking what I should do personally is just order each of the different emitters that potentially interests me on MCPCB’s, try them out on my work bench, and decide from that what my dream light is.
Exactly what Ive been doing. Have already tried most combinations of e21a, and just ordered a number of optisolis to combine and see.
For now it is e21a at 3000k and optisolis 5000, but looks like I’ll end up at higher cct with optisolis
I will put E21A and Optisolis modules for DIY-ers to experiment themselves but take note:
- Jetusolis and JetuE21A lens holders are NOT interchangeable. I modified the lens holder of JetuE21A so much that you can’t use Optisolis with it. There’s a potential one could easily crush the Optisolis put in the JetuE21A.
- You can use E21A/E17A LED modules in Jetusolis but the beam will be about 50% narrower and you’ll lose ~20% output.
- Clemence
Updated some pictures and measurements in the product pages using final TIR optics selection.
Warning: big pictures, click to enlarge
- Clemence
Thank You Clemence.
My first review on BLF.
JetuE21A - VERY High CRI AAA EDC - REVIEW
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/55442
I went back to look at this picture again, because it’s really cool to see the phosphors glowing under UV light, and I noticed something I missed before:
The E17A’s are all glowing, except what I assume is a blue one.
So I looked up the datasheets to see the spectrum graphs, and sure enough, they aren’t narrow monochromatic peaks, but relatively wide peaks. These are phosphor-converted color LED’s (except the blue).
I’m guessing the appearance is not the intense, highly saturated look we’re accustomed to with color LED’s, but more like a filtered incandescent? I’ve never quite liked LED Christmas lights as much as filtered incandescents, so I think that could be a good thing.
You’re right. Although these colored LED aren’t as bright as normal colored LEDs, they have much wider spectrum coverage. I was surprised too how well I can see under the Red, Green, and Amber E17As. Unlike Blue which has very specific uses. Amber E17A renders color better than LPS and one could mistaken it from 1800K warm white if the object shone don’t contain too much colors. I also prefer PC Red for retaining night vision, because I can still somewhat see different colors better than with true single spectrum red color. Green although very relatively harsh to the eyes, brings out details extremely good and has the best color recognition among the other colored E17A. I can’t use the blue for too long, it hurts my eyes. Blue E17A, just like many failed dedomed LEDs in my collection, very useful for illuminating anything that normally glows under UV.
- Clemence
Indeed, they are very surprising.
For each color, the datasheet has spectrum info at the page 10 (I mention 20% to 100% to 20% intensity of spectrum)
Blue (430nm - 447nm - 465nm)
Green (488nm - 521nm - 583nm) (slight deep blue, no near-IR)
Amber (543nm - 608nm - 691nm) (slight deep blue, very slight near-IR)
Red (598nm - 647nm - 735nm) (no deep blue /but figure doesn't contains range 400-450nm, slight near-IR)
Based on this, probably I need to take a red for sure in my next order 
Received a jetusolis 6500°k and 5000°k today (ordered on janv 24 (3 weeks ago)). Thank you clemence !
I usually don’t like cool white then each time i turn on the 6.5k, i need time to get used to it.
Once adapted, i have zero problem to consider it as one reference for colors rendition for myself. I will use it amply for inspections in the next days.
I really appreciate, at least, being able to check colors with a beam without a neutral or warm tint.
I can stand cool white…i’m cured !! 
Thank you for your work, tests and dedication to high cri.
Is there an E21A and optisolis, both 6.5k beamshot somewhere ?
What to expect of a triple E21A 6.5k in the FW3A ?
Is it too much to hope for a tir lens combined to your Wizard/Tiara E21A module that would fit the FW3A ?
EDIT : blue tones with the jetusolis 6500°k look real good 