Thanks guys! Cereal_killer is correct. I use the ATtiny1634. Drivers and firmware support off-switch, E-switch and dual-switch. Same firmware, no need to re-flash, which is why I need a dual switch light for testing so I can test it all. I have a switch configuration setting so I can change on the fly.
I haven’t tested parasitic drain with my better DMMs. I just tested with the one I have here and it’s undetectable, but I’ll test some tine during the weekend with my better DMMs. When I built 7135 and CAT4104 based drivers I got it down to 0.1uA with OTSM compatible drivers, but I need to test with my better DMMs when using these new regulators. They will have some sort of shutdown standby current, hopefully really low. Datasheet only specifies a max shutdown current of 1uA, no typical or minimum shutdown current.
To keep parasitic drain to minimum I power the digipot directly from a MCU pin, and the negative side of the voltage divider doesn’t go to ground, it also goes to a MCU pin so that I can switch off GND for the divider. On of the benefits to having a lot of pins to play with I don’t actually need the voltage divider for 1S but I use it for OTSM power off detection.
I use a script. Placing them all by hand would be horrible! I’ve deleted a few vias though, as I routed some signal paths out in the GND ring area.
Recently (like 3 weeks ago) I've modded Convoy S2+. This is one of the twin lights I want to put together. This is supposed to end up on my bike's steering bar since I'm cycling a lot. So the plan is to install 2xConvoy S2+ with striped lens (as short range lights = do not blind other drivers), a mid range one (thinking if not use Emisar D4s) and a long range (Convoy C8 SMO?) and Fireflies PL47 on head. All the lights will be 4000K, various CRI (70-95). This is what I've done: I cut off a piece of brass rod, filed, sanded, drilled holes and fit into the pill:
Then put some Arctic MX-2 paste inside to fill out remaining gaps and pushed in the piece of brass rod leading wires through.
The rest was a piece a cake. Used Luxeon V 4000K from L4P (which I love, even with not the highest possible CRI). I soldered it onto the pill with a tin paste.
Soldered wires, bridged springs and put parts together. You surely know how does the C S2+ look like so I skip the picture of host. But what's significant. Firstly I put inside just a cheap striped lens for S2 (don't remember where acquired - BG? GB? or Ali?). After a few days arrived an original Carclo Stripe lens LT-0843. I was stunned with an output difference it caused. Looks like 29% lux gain!
Cheap stripe lens:
Genuine Carclo stripe lens:
May your weekend be full of succesfull mods! :BEER:
Thanks djozz. I wish I knew as much as you guys, but I’m very happy I can learn from this forum. Actually from the great people willing to share their priceless knowledge. Though it’s still a long way ahead, but seeing own skills improving is great as well. However there should be a warning at the forum entrance: you enter at your own risk. Not leaving this forum in time may result in becoming a dedicated flashololic. This is contagious! Yep, too late for me…
My Wally World Solar Street Light,
Aint really solar anymore… It got a power assist.
Cant count on the Sun, what can ya count on?
Added a 2.1mmX5.5mm power jack to plug it into a USB wall wart. Charge circuit cuts out about 4.1V so it’ll be fine. Still got a couple 18650 laptop pulls inside cause they are better than the garbage cells it came with.
Glued the modified #14 finishing washer around the button of my Fireflies E07 last night.
Used epoxy so this is permanent. Removing it would probably damage the finish. Didn’t see the post about Goop till I’d already done it.
Still the final result looks pretty good. The gap below the sides of the washer are covered by tiny bits of aluminum strip. It hides the glue and makes the light look like it was manufactured this way.
Trying to flash my D4 to Anduril, but I can’t get AVRdude to run.
Every time I try running it the command prompt says “Does not have permission”. And a popup window appears saying the app is not allowed to run on my PC.
I installed AVRDude last week briefly. For the first 20 minutes it worked and behaved normally, but now the app won’t even run. Uninstalling and reinstalling didn’t help.
Using Windows 10. This is a home PC and I’m the only one who uses it. I have admin privileges and have no idea how this happened or why the app stopped working.
Any ideas? or suggestions for alternate programs that might run?
You may need to install the driver for the USBAsp, Windows 10 may not have it in it’s library. I recently had to restore Win 7 Pro and lost things such as this, had to hunt everything down and do reinstalls.
I installed AVRDude last week briefly. For the first 20 minutes it worked and behaved normally, but now the app won’t even run. Uninstalling and reinstalling didn’t help.
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that happens a lot with 3D printer stuff, it seems microsoft runs some kind of check or something then disallows the the thing! … i.e. it ran fine for 20 minutes? hmmm then not.
next comes the windows update that resets everything back to let every one use and record and store bumf on your pooter… then your drivers no longer function.
(in hind sight microsoft are robbing you of any non microsoft ‘approved’ things. very anoying being monopolied isnt it).
‘zadig’ can be a help, haven’t got a link to it off hand but it’s got the printer working a few times. it basically recalls or initialises the drivers microsoft reset to ‘off’…for want of metaphor’s that seem extremely accurate lol.
The sum of the parts are actually pretty decent. It has a copper mcpcb, short brass pill, retaining rings, LED spacers, o-rings, etc. HOWEVER, it’s glued everywhere. The retaining ring has a slight indentation on it that I tried to use but it didn’t budge. I ended up using the smallest dremel drill bit I had (1/32”) and making two holes in the retaining ring and nearly breaking the best hardened stainless tweezers I have but I got it free. I found blue loctite on the retaining ring only. I was going to swap the tail spring as well but that ring is also glued so I decided not to.
TL;DR - dremel > blue loctite
Parts:
Money shot:
Two holes in the ring are mine and the left hole in the driver ground ring is mine, the right hole was already there.
I swapped in a LH351D 4000K 90CRI and didn’t really lose much/if any output from the ugly XP-L HD that was there before.
Busy weekend. 3 lights modded with triple channel drivers:
Friday was this NS22 Seeker, I built it a 1+8x7135+FET TA driver with bistro. You can swap the driver without opening the bezel but I went ahead and did that so I could adjust the centering ring height a bit which cleaned up the transition from hotspot to corona. Stock 3500k 95cri SST-20
Saturday was the Utorch S1 mini. Its got a custom driver, 1+4x7135+FET running anduril and a 5000k Luxeon V2 with a layer of DC fix on the inside of the aspheric lens.
Finally I capped the weekend modding extravaganza off with the AX3 mod. Again a TA 22mm driver but with the 1x7135’s output leg isolated and modified anduril FW for a red moon mode than can be turned on/off without flashing new FW.
My anduril light collection is up to 6 now (and only one of these lights came with compatible HW)!
I build a small wooden box for my spectrometer. The device came in a complete suitcase that protects the expensive tool very well but is very inconvenient to use because of its size.
And because I was in a nostalgic mood I made this little chest with pine wood, triplex, wood glue, nails, paint and some dark grey polyether for the inserts.
It is not made very precise but it feels good and makes for a very good protection of the spectrometer, that is now much easier to carry with me, with less worries.
I don’t actually need the voltage divider for 1S but I use it for OTSM power off detection.
