WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

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Archibald Tuttle
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CRX wrote:
Never noticed any flicker on mine

!{width:80%}[img]https://i.imgur.com/gdbmDZB.jpg[/img]!

That is a wicked nice bit of kit you’ve made there!

Ya momma..

Kindle
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Archibald Tuttle wrote:

Love that old Tekna.

Archibald Tuttle
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Kindle, thanks. Still in use, 3 decades on, rings and all. Under its ringy, dim glow many a item has been fixed and, most importantly,many a bedtime story was read to my children. Smile

Ya momma..

jon_slider
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Archibald Tuttle wrote:

very nice light, thanks for sharing photos.

fwiw, I made a video of my RRT-01, it definitely has flicker that my phone can see, although I can barely tell with my naked eye
Jetbeam RRT-01 flicker video

Archibald Tuttle
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Thanks, I’m highly aware of flicker and PWM, especially in my peripheral vision. I can see it everywhere, in LED christmas lighting, screens, etc,etc…. even some of my high dollar test equipment displays. Can’t say I’m “sensitive” to it though. I’m a task oriented person. Flashes, rings, hues, tones, beeps,buzzes and dings and other miniscule observations rarely interfere with my ability to get things done. Also, being a lad of the late 70’s and early 80’s , I’ve got some most excellent memories that are strobe laden. Love Innocent

Ya momma..

jon_slider
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Archibald Tuttle wrote:
I’m highly aware of flicker and PWM, especially in my peripheral vision. I can see it everywhere, …

Yes, flicker from car taillights is another area of PulsePollution, and yes, many lights have flicker that can be photographed but is not necessarily noticeable by the naked eye.

I am not in any way trying to criticize your choice of light, in fact, I want one like yours Smile

Taking photos of flicker and PWM is a personal interest test that I apply to all my lights. It is not my intention to judge, just inform.

btw, I like your glasses.. lol

Archibald Tuttle
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Lol! Great scene! We ARE all in this together! And, no, didnt take it that way at all!!
Like you, preference is generally for little fluctuations as possible. My favorite work lighting source is still a mains driven, rough duty, Hi CRI, led lamp.
Most of my pocket lights are compromise situations, I think like many view their everyday carry items. Nothing wrong with looking for perfection.
Keep a eye out on E(vil)bay, there was a somewhat recent(last year) auction that sold a like new, TCR1 for under $95.00 USD

Ya momma..

SKV89
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Jon_slider, so did you swap emitter in your RRT-01 and V11R before? Which one do you like better? I would like to buy an variable brightness rotary light and mod it with a hi cri emitter.

jon_slider
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I do not recommend changing emitters on magnetic rotary lights, because it can make the magnetic ring overreactive. The light will continue to change brightness after letting go of the dial. If I dial up and let go of the dial, the light continues to get brighter. If I dial down and let go, the light continues to drift down. I can see the change with my naked eyes.

They also change brightness simply by pointing the clip north or south, with the stock LED, depending on the orientation of the light in the earth’s magnetic field, but the change is only 10%, and I can not detect that with my naked eyes, only on my light meter.

Selfbuilt noticed this drift too, but mentioned it was not visible to his naked eye. Everyone Ive asked who owns a V11R is unaware of any visible drift in brightness. One of them, ven has a 219b mod, but I do not think he has a light meter, and he says he does not notice the drift. I believe him, it is not easy to notice brightness changes without a meter.

The V11R that I tested modded to 3000k 219c, had drift of 100% change in brightness and I could see it with my eyes. I found that unacceptable.

just to prove that a non magnetic light does not drift in the same situation:

and here is the stock drift on an RRT-01, notice the position of the clip changes


thats about a 10% change, I can not see it with my eyes, and disclaimer, that is a homebrew meter.. those lumen values are approximately correct imo, Ive tested a lot of lights with that setup.. ymmv

more info about magnetic light options here

SKV89
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Oh wow thanks for the very detailed explanation. That sucks. I really like the idea of having a rotary control. It is the most intuitive UI for muggles and I wanted to swap some warmer high cri emitters and give to my parents, who won’t be able to remember the interfaces of more complex 1-button lights.

jon_slider
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SKV89 wrote:
Oh wow thanks for the very detailed explanation. That sucks. I really like the idea of having a rotary control. It is the most intuitive UI for muggles and I wanted to swap some warmer high cri emitters and give to my parents, who won’t be able to remember the interfaces of more complex 1-button lights.

I would love to learn from you that you found an LED that is both High CRI and does not alter the action of the magnetic ring. I love the magnetic rotary UI, but I dont love the Green Tint of the low CRI LED.

btw, these lights are “throwy”, the reflector is deep and produces a strong hotspot

I dont do my own mods and have no education on what LED characteristics are different between the 219c 3000k and the 6000k XM-L2.. that made the magnetic ring overreactive.

leaftye
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Control ring lights like this would be good for the technically illiterate, but no way I’d share, much less gift, a rare gem like the RRT01.

The low mode should be lower.

Reviews: Efan IMR18350 700mAh 10.5A, <a href="http://

jon_slider
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I just received my RRT-01 modded to N219b 4500k 9080

the change in brightness by rotating the entire light 180 degrees goes from 91 lumens to 97 lumens, a change of less than 7%. Not visible.. Im really happy!

max lumens dropped to 380, it was 500 with the stock LED.. I dont mind the lumen reduction, it still gets brighter than my HDS. High CRI and no more green tint, makes my day!

the low mode is still lower than my meter can read, below 0.01, which is less than on my HDS.

I would definitely do an N219b mod to an RRT-01 again.

the beam is not ideal, there is a ring half way out the spill, but.. I really like the grip position of the dial, better than on my HDS Rotary. And I prefer the RRT-01 to the V11R, since I dont need to activate a tailswitch and then change grips.

Xmas came early.. I love being Santa Claus.. LOL

SKV89
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jon_slider wrote:
I just received my RRT-01 modded to N219b 4500k 9080

the change in brightness by rotating the entire light 180 degrees goes from 91 lumens to 97 lumens, a change of less than 7%. Not visible.. Im really happy!

I can imagine that’s a very nice light. But rotating half a circle only increases brightness by 7%? How many rotations do you need to bring it to max output? I can imagine your fingers would be tired.

moderator007
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I think jon_slider is refering to rotating the whole light, not touching the control ring.

jon_slider
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SKV89][quote=jon_slider wrote:
rotating half a circle only increases brightness by 7%?

there is a misunderstanding, thanks for letting me know so I can clarify

I was not talking about turning the adjustment ring
I was referring to rotating the entire light, to measure magnetic drift, as explained in post #40

the new LED did not have the terrible outcome I feared, and had experienced with a 219c mod, the 219b mod works great!

.

the normal operation of the magnetic ring on the Jetbeam RRT-01 in actual use is unchanged, the entire range from off to max requires less than 1/2 of a full rotation. This can be accomplished easily with just one hand, without the need to change grips.

this is by far the simplest UI I have ever experienced, from the time I pull out the light, ramp up, and back down and back in pocket, is the quickest and simplest interface of any light I own.

it is incredibly easy to teach a muggle, all they need to know is turn the dial up, and back down.. KISS!

the handshake grip required to use the magnetic ring on the RRT-01, is vastly simpler than the overhead grip on the HDS or the overhead and then handshake of the V11R.. the RRT-01 is the least likely of the three to get fumbled and dropped during operation.

the HDS requires the first 180 degree rotation to reach 2 lumens the other 180 degrees to reach max, and it ramps in steps, that look like flashes
the RRT-01 ramps smoothly, and in a shorter total arc of less than 180 degrees.

the jetbeam RRT-01 is smaller, lighter, and less expensice than an HDS, and the RRT-01 also accepts 18350, while the HDS and V11R do not.

otoh, the rotary dial on the 2011 year model HDS feels smooth like butter, the RRT-01 feels like sandpaper, it needs help, and the HDS reflector produces fewer rings in the beam. The RRT-01 reflector was designed for an XM LED, it is not ideal for the XP size Nichia

here you can see the RRT-01 reflector, it has what I call fresnel rings in it, and the opening at the base of the reflector is larger than on the HDS


the RRT-01 has a much lower minimum, and the maximum of 380 lm w N219b, is almost double that of the HDS

The HDS has a donut hole in the middle of the beam at close range, worse than the one on the RRT-01.. neither beam is perfect.

MascaratumB
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That ended up being a nice mod jon_slider Wink
I am sure you are happier now with the Nichia inside Wink Looks great!!! Thumbs Up

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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jon_slider
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YES!

Im Loving the RRT-01 with the N219b mod.

It has become my primary carry light. I love the ability to dial any brightness. In fact, I play with the dial constantly when walking, dialing up and down depending how close or far Im illuminating.

RRT-01 is a Winner for me.

Tally-ho
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I’m using one at work regularly, shame it doesn’t have LVP.

jon_slider
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Tally-ho wrote:
shame it doesn’t have LVP.

I agree, that is one reason I dont use IMR
I use Protected 16340 Batteries.
My HDS has LVP, but I still prefer to use Protected cells.
I wish the RRT-01 had strobe too.

The extra diameter from not using 18350 leaves room for a cash stash. Though it is not needed, as the 16340 battery does not rattle anyway.

Ive standardized on the USB rechargeable versions for all my 16340 lights. The RRT-01 fits the Fenix cell fine, but my Olights feel better with the shorter Olight version.

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Just noticed that there is a new RRT01 model on the way!
Saw it on hkequipment add and then saw it on batteryjunction!
XPL – 950 lumens !

Wink

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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jon_slider
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jon_slider wrote:
good find!
https://www.batteryjunction.com/jetbeam-rrt-01-edc.html

Seems promising Wink Let’s see if the ring will be as good as the previous version (ours) Wink
Also it has a look of the Mechforce flashlights Cool

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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jon_slider
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MascaratumB wrote:
Let’s see if the ring will be as good as the previous version (ours) Wink Also it has a look of the Mechforce flashlights Cool

the new RRT-01 ring looks like the RRT-0 in the following post, a light has proven extremely reliable:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?454915-My-road-to-my...HDS-light&p=5275200&viewfull=1#post5275200

Commodorefirst;5275200 wrote:
a JETBeam RRT0 Raptor with the variable ring, and wondered, hmmm, how long will this work being in a pocket 24/7. It has been on every hunt, and dropped 20-30 times, rained on, tracked deer, and is getting worn, … it has been a trooper, 10years no problems

review here
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/24702
and a video

Let me put it this way
imnsho, the RRT-01 does several things better than an HDS Rotary
but, there is no fan club for the Jetbeam, so nobody but you, I and a select few in the know, use the RRT-01 as our EDC..

the RRT-01 is simpler, smoother ramping, lower low, higher high, and less cash
but like I said, there is no fan club, and if I said all this in front of the wrong people, they would think there must be something wrong with me, and would never listen to anything I say ever again

but I did my job already, HDS now offers a ton of High CRI LEDs, all because of me.. I need to convince Jetbeam next, but until then CRX is on the Job!

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This is a better light now, because it can take the higher capacity 18350's. It's the original ramping mode!

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fwiw
I have a 1200mAh 18350 IMR in my original RRT-01 right now Smile

.

fwiw
I dont know if the weight specs are accurate, I just copied from battery junction linked above

new RRT-01 Weight: 75.2 g without battery (Unconfirmed)

Original RRT-01 Weight: 46g excluding batteries (I confirmed mine weighs 49 grams w pocket clip, empty)

.

another difference in specs is the new model says XP-L and 950 lumens, the old model is XM-L2 and 600 lumens

saypat
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… would really like an RRT-01, always have. But won’t pay $80! I’ll just use my V11R I got for $18 and pretend.

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It is encouraging to think Jetbeam may have started paying more attention to BLF and its enthusiasts.
Now they need to incorporate the exciting work Clemence is doing with their lights.

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jon_slider wrote:
the new RRT-01 ring looks like the RRT-0 in the following post, a light has proven extremely reliable:

The ring looks the old style in the new version! But I don’t dislike it Wink
jon_slider wrote:
I need to convince Jetbeam next, but until then CRX is on the Job!
Tjohn wrote:
It is encouraging to think Jetbeam may have started paying more attention to BLF and its enthusiasts. Now they need to incorporate the exciting work Clemence is doing with their lights.

Agreed! These lights deserve better LEDs and better tints and CRI than the older versions! Or at least they deserve to be…mod friendly in that department Evil

Tom E wrote:

This is a better light now, because it can take the higher capacity 18350’s. It’s the original ramping mode!


With some mods, the older version was already able to use them, but the question remains: will this one have LVP or at least will it allow using protected batteries?
CRX made a protection for an 18350 to avoid battery depletion! I hope that this new version will allow it for Li-Ion batteries.

saypat wrote:
… would really like an RRT-01, always have. But won’t pay $80! I’ll just use my V11R I got for $18 and pretend.

Never had a V11R, but owning 2 RRT-01…I don’t know if I’m not fall in temptation Innocent Still, it is a high price, for sure!!

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

jon_slider
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Tjohn wrote:
they need to incorporate the exciting work Clemence is doing with their lights.
agreed! In fact, my RRT-01 is modded to one of Clemence’s High CRI LEDs Smile

Im considering having an RRT-01 order, drop ship to Clemence in Bali, for LED mods. If we can convince Clemence the RRT-01 is worthy of his efforts.

Since he is already doing other Jetbeams, the pump is primed Smile

cost is always a consideration, but, lets put this in perspective, even after the increases in shipping from Bali, a modded RRT-01 would cost less than half the price of an HDS.

MascaratumB wrote:
the question remains: will this one have LVP or at least will it allow using protected batteries? CRX made a protection for an 18350 to avoid battery depletion!

also wish the RRT-01 had LVP, that is one feature the HDS has, that the RRT-01 lacks.

fwiw, my RRT-01 does work with protected 16340. Ive read that IMR does not need LVP as badly as ICR

I am unaware that CRX created LVP for RRT-01.. more info welcome
In some of his mods for some lights, such as the Novatac Triple, he eliminated the stock driver in favor of the H17f driver, which incorporates protection… but that is not a Rotary UI

.

great ideas everyone, thanks for the conversation

as to the V11r, well.. like the RRT-0 and the HDS, it uses a tail clicky in addition to the Rotary Dial.. I dont Love a Clicky, though I understand it has its value to some. One of the main reasons I carry an RRT-01 instead of a V11r or HDS, is that the RRT-01 does not require the extra steps and grip contortions that a tail clicky w Rotary dial requires.

For me, the RRT-01 is the preferred UI, because it does not use a tail clicky.

here is a video to show an example of the manipulation difference between HDS and RRT-01

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