Just got the light out of its box about an hour ago. Nothing alarming stands out from a quick test. Only preliminary numbers follow.
-This is the cool white XP-L HI version with frosted optics (2.8 cd/lm)
-Beam is very even in tint which isn’t surprising with the floody optics
-Measurements show a bit of green on lower modes, but nothing to worry about, visually it’s clean cool white and much better than most CRI90 219C
-Max output 2800 lumens with a 30Q (haven’t calibrated the temp sensor yet, steps down after about 15 seconds)
-Max throw 7800cd or 177m
-I like the 1+6+FET (edit: it’s 1+7+FET) three channel driver
-Default mode on smooth ramp is 1×7135 at 120 lumens.
-I would like to have the 1×7135 mode part of the default stepped ramp mode, 8×7135 is there as the highest before turbo
-Button top 30Q fits, but is a bit tight, springs are stiff, no damage but my button tops are very short
-Very nice tactile click to the switch. It always works even from the very edge so no precision required.
I'm currently on the list at 950 for one. I've decided I'd like two total, one of each emitter. (I will probably mod the one with emitters I like less!)
What a lovely looking little light. Can’t wait to get mine.
When I put my name down for one, I didn’t choose the emitter. Do I need to say what I want now, or do I get given the choice once the group buy activates?
2 Questions for anyone able and willing:
1. Please forgive if this an ignorant question…..but as far as “modes” or “brightness levels”, does this go up to the 800 lumen range Maukka noticed and then it’s only the full on TURBO after that? Or is there ramping from the regulated 7×7135 mode up to the Turbo (ie. can we go up to say, 1400 lumens-ish or 2000 lumens-ish and stop there, without going all the way to turbo?) ?
In reading on Anduril on the OP page…it appears infinite variable brightness….but just wanted to make sure I wasn’t misunderstanding.
2. The optics. It appears there are several easy swapouts (some mentioned to be sold by MTN on a previous page here). Is it as easy as screwing off the bezel and swapping? Or is there glue or other tools involved?
TIA!
—
John 1:5 "The Light shines in the darkness, and the darkness did not comprehend it."
Maukka, thanks for the analysis, and the good hard work you have contributed to this project!
I plan to purchase this version of the FW3A, but would like increase the throw. I get about 12000 cd from my current EDC Thorfire TG06S and would like to at least duplicate it with my new FW3A.
Approximately how much throw would be gained by going to a clear lens? Are there any other easy mods that would further increase the throw? Thanks!
Shouldn’t turbo be closer to 3000lm though?
The lowest mode is approximately how low?
I hope the muggle mode goes up to the 7*7135 level.
Is the build quality of the D4 better?
—
virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm Photo Red ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 (for sale)
Maukka, thanks for the analysis, and the good hard work you have contributed to this project!
I plan to purchase this version of the FW3A, but would like increase the throw. I get about 12000 cd from my current EDC Thorfire TG06S and would like to at least duplicate it with my new FW3A.
Approximately how much throw would be gained by going to a clear lens? Are there any other easy mods that would further increase the throw? Thanks!
With the narrow clear optic and the xpl-hi you should be able to hit 12,000 lux. Using SkyLumen specs his lights achieve 15,000 lux.
I prefer an “A” or “D” as far as the black body Locus is concerned. Below or ideally, at, the line. But we seldom get our choice in these matters.
So I agree with Tom in the choice of a D, not in the choice of a 5. 2A or 3A would be my preference most of the time. I prefer white, no tint. No green or blue or purple or pink or orange or rose or brown, just white.
My Avatar is in color, by the way. 17 emitters, in moon mode. White. Or very close to it.
Same here, A and D. Didn’t realize that was a color pic. Very nice!
Completed review here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/65619
Just got the light out of its box about an hour ago. Nothing alarming stands out from a quick test. Only preliminary numbers follow.
-This is the cool white XP-L HI version with frosted optics (2.8 cd/lm)
-Beam is very even in tint which isn’t surprising with the floody optics
-Measurements show a bit of green on lower modes, but nothing to worry about, visually it’s clean cool white and much better than most CRI90 219C
-Max output 2800 lumens with a 30Q (haven’t calibrated the temp sensor yet, steps down after about 15 seconds)
-Max throw 7800cd or 177m
-I like the 1+6+FET (edit: it’s 1+7+FET) three channel driver
-Default mode on smooth ramp is 1×7135 at 120 lumens.
-I would like to have the 1×7135 mode part of the default stepped ramp mode, 8×7135 is there as the highest before turbo
-Button top 30Q fits, but is a bit tight, springs are stiff, no damage but my button tops are very short
-Very nice tactile click to the switch. It always works even from the very edge so no precision required.
Output levels on the stepped ramp mode:
3.6 lumens
28 lm
78 lm
155 lm
315 lm
533 lm
825 lm (
7×71358×7135)2800 lm
I’ll try to finish the review this week, but as of now, I’m impressed.
Here’s some photos.
Looking good!
I'm currently on the list at 950 for one. I've decided I'd like two total, one of each emitter. (I will probably mod the one with emitters I like less!)
Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category
ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100
Nice Quick work Maukka, well done!
Nice looking light, no doubt about it…
How to Post Images on BLF // Many knives for sale (USA only)
How to move a thread // WTS Brand New Timex Expedition Vibe Shock Camo Watch (USA only)
What about wait 10 minutes til your eyes do the automatic white balance thing?
wow great info, looks like this will be a very nice light for very little money.
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
つ ◕_◕ ༽つ
Hm, to me this is not very Lidl money.
I would rather call it: ……………. a relatively modest amount of money.
You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.
[/quote]As far as I am concerned.. Neutral ‘should’ be “Pure White”, as close as possible; without adding warm or cool tints.[/quote]
My definition of pure white would be like a white piece of paper but I know the definition may vary.
Great pics, cogs turning
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - CRX Flashlight Builds - - CRX Stuff for Sale -
No snapped optic legs here…
So, did Lumintop tell you when the light will be revealed/be able to buy?
I’ll be buying one the second it goes online.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
Also, could you check with a magnet if they are steel springs or not?
They look exactly like the BeCu spring from the GT Mini.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
What a lovely looking little light. Can’t wait to get mine.
When I put my name down for one, I didn’t choose the emitter. Do I need to say what I want now, or do I get given the choice once the group buy activates?
Wow…. very nice!!
Thank you for the detailed report & great pictures maukka. .
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Very nice! Noob question: what does the “1” in “1+6+FET” represent?
1×7135+6×7135+FET driver.
It’s a triple channel driver.
You can get very low moonlights with 1×7135 mode.
You can get an efficient 1000 lumen with 6×7135.
You can get max power with direct drive over the FET with 3000+ lumens of output.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
Ah gotcha, thanks!
I am on the list for 1. Can you update that to 3 with the LH351D.
TK corrected me and said it’s actually 1+7+FET. Two chips on the other side.
2 Questions for anyone able and willing:
1. Please forgive if this an ignorant question…..but as far as “modes” or “brightness levels”, does this go up to the 800 lumen range Maukka noticed and then it’s only the full on TURBO after that? Or is there ramping from the regulated 7×7135 mode up to the Turbo (ie. can we go up to say, 1400 lumens-ish or 2000 lumens-ish and stop there, without going all the way to turbo?) ?
In reading on Anduril on the OP page…it appears infinite variable brightness….but just wanted to make sure I wasn’t misunderstanding.
2. The optics. It appears there are several easy swapouts (some mentioned to be sold by MTN on a previous page here). Is it as easy as screwing off the bezel and swapping? Or is there glue or other tools involved?
TIA!
John 1:5 "The Light shines in the darkness, and the darkness did not comprehend it."
1. All of that is configurable. It’s just that the default stepped ramp mode goes up to the 800 lumens and to turbo from there with a double click.
2. Easy to swap MCPCB and LEDs or optics (Carclo), no glue.
Maukka, thanks for the analysis, and the good hard work you have contributed to this project!
I plan to purchase this version of the FW3A, but would like increase the throw. I get about 12000 cd from my current EDC Thorfire TG06S and would like to at least duplicate it with my new FW3A.
Approximately how much throw would be gained by going to a clear lens? Are there any other easy mods that would further increase the throw? Thanks!
Shouldn’t turbo be closer to 3000lm though?
The lowest mode is approximately how low?
I hope the muggle mode goes up to the 7*7135 level.
Is the build quality of the D4 better?
virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm Photo Red ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 (for sale)
I’m down for one.
Please count me in for one of each:
I haven’t tested different optics with the XP-L HI yet, but will post numbers later with the 10507. You’ll probably gain about 20-40% more candela.
With the narrow clear optic and the xpl-hi you should be able to hit 12,000 lux. Using SkyLumen specs his lights achieve 15,000 lux.
https://skylumen.com/collections/v54-lights/products/sl2
Same here, A and D. Didn’t realize that was a color pic. Very nice!
Pages