FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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netprince
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RapidLux wrote:
Maybe one should explicitly mention that the flashlight is very short and only short unprotected 18650 batteries should be used with it. Or else something could be crushed trying to fit in a longer battery? That happened to me with another light. Almost damaged the driver board, barely saved it as I noticed the crushing sound.

If an unprotected button top 30q barely fits, I hope another 1-2mm can be added to the length of the tube before they are manufactured.

Neal
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maukka wrote:
I also think it’s strange that my “production” sample has a cool white (>5700K) emitter.

it is a sample,they use the LEDs they are in stock
the production will use the 3D tint

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netprince wrote:
If an unprotected button top 30q barely fits, I hope another 1-2mm can be added to the length of the tube before they are manufactured.

Nope. A 30Q fits fine, but it will not be getting any host changes before production. Use unprotected cells only. Personally, I recommend the 35E cell, because it gives more runtime at every level except turbo, and the FW3A is not designed to operate at turbo for very long. It’s not a hot rod.

Neal wrote:
it is a sample,they use the LEDs they are in stock the production will use the 3D tint

Thanks, this is good news! Smile

hodor
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ToyKeeper wrote:
…the FW3A is not designed to operate at turbo for very long. It’s not a hot rod.

I have a feeling it won’t be long before someone turns it into one.

netprince
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ToyKeeper wrote:
netprince wrote:
If an unprotected button top 30q barely fits, I hope another 1-2mm can be added to the length of the tube before they are manufactured.

Nope. A 30Q fits fine, but it will not be getting any host changes before production. Use unprotected cells only. Personally, I recommend the 35E cell, because it gives more runtime at every level except turbo, and the FW3A is not designed to operate at turbo for very long. It’s not a hot rod.

I didn’t mean to suggest the light support protected cells… I was just concerned about varying length of unprotected cells, similar to what is going on with the e07 and the 21700 cells.

ToyKeeper
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netprince wrote:
I was just concerned about varying length of unprotected cells, similar to what is going on with the e07 and the 21700 cells.

If I understand correctly, the E07 issues aren’t really about the host design as much as the solder blob on the springs. Some have thicker blobs than others, which can cause battery fit issues at random. But the FW3A does not have bypassed springs, so it should be more consistent.

hcjake
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Put me down for 2, please!

Yourrid
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maukka wrote:


Now THAT is a beautiful light! Love Thank you very much for the great pictures and info Maukka.

cdjaney
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Put me down for one LH351D please.

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Shelton55
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Put me down for one, please.

donthelegend
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Please add me to the list for 1.

Streamtronics
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This is super exiting, I can’t wait for mine!

timbo114 wrote:
So I wonder now, which is going to be the true production anno color…


I wonder about this, too – I realize it was always planned to be a lighter anodizing, but I personally prefer the darker gray, it just looks sexy ;D

Also I’d like to know how the knurling compares to the BLF A6, since the A6’s is somewhat smooth, not as sharp as some other lights I’ve held. Not like the knurling would make or break the deal for me, I’m just curious!

Thanks again to Toykeeper and everyone involved! You’re awesome.

DavidEF
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Streamtronics wrote:
This is super exiting, I can’t wait for mine!

timbo114 wrote:
So I wonder now, which is going to be the true production anno color…


I wonder about this, too – I realize it was always planned to be a lighter anodizing, but I personally prefer the darker gray, it just looks sexy ;D

Also I’d like to know how the knurling compares to the BLF A6, since the A6’s is somewhat smooth, not as sharp as some other lights I’ve held. Not like the knurling would make or break the deal for me, I’m just curious!

Thanks again to Toykeeper and everyone involved! You’re awesome.


The correct answer is BOTH because the difference in those pics is just a difference in lighting and/or camera settings. Wink

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wolfstyle
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Please add me for one.

Streamtronics
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DavidEF wrote:
The correct answer is BOTH because the difference in those pics is just a difference in lighting and/or camera settings. Wink

Huh, how about that! I’d have bet money the ano color actually changed lol. I guess most of us know those brown boxes with the white foam, so comparing to those I’m expecting a somewhat lighter gray. Thanks for clarifying!

CC268
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I will take one please.

jonxxn
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please add me for another one. order #103

thanks.

PeasFull
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Put me down for one

JasonWW
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Jambo wrote:

One question please, will all the XPL HI versions have a frosted flood lens?


Yes, all versions of the light will use this frosted lens. It can be polished clear for less spill light and more throw if that’s what you want. Or simply replace the lens.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

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Satan@103TFS
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I’m on No.875 add one more for me please

teacher
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JasonWW wrote:
Jambo wrote:

One question please, will all the XPL HI versions have a frosted flood lens?

Yes, all versions of the light will use this frosted lens. It can be polished clear for less spill light and more throw if that’s what you want. Or simply replace the lens.
Technically, I believe you will find it is the plastic ‘Optic’ that is frosted…. not the glass lens.
.

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JasonWW
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I assume people know that the optic is a lens and I’m taking about polishing the plastic part made by Carlco and not the glass part.

Plastic = can sand/polish

Glass = leave alone, do not scratch or damage

I assume this. Hopefully people will figure it out.

One of the advantages of using this particular frosted optic is you can leave it stock (and have a really nice looking beam with even color distribution) or simply polish it for additional throw without having to buy any new optics/lenses.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

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lumenzilla
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I really can’t wait Love

CRX
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Yeah, glass is a window unless it’s got curves.
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maukka
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iamlucky13 wrote:
maukka wrote:
-Measurements show a bit of green on lower modes, but nothing to worry about, visually it’s clean cool white and much better than most CRI90 219

Shouldn’t a Duv of 0.0052 be slightly greener than a typical CRI90 219C? Looking up a couple 219C measurements (MF01 and 219C GB), it seems like 0.003 is pretty typical.

That’s why I said visually. In my experience high CRI 219C looks greener than their measurements would imply. Even when a CRI80 and CRI90 5000K 219C measure similarly, the CRI90 one always looks greener on a white wall while the original R8000 219C looks more often just pure white.

Also, to me, the higher the CCT, the less green the light seems. Maybe I’m just very allergic to that yellow/green tint that plagues many warmish emitters.

iamlucky13 wrote:
If you have a chance to respond, how’s the feel of the body size-wise compared to the D4? The pictures don’t make it look much smaller, but I’m hoping the difference will be noticeable.

The FW3A feels much less chunky.

teacher
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JasonWW wrote:
I assume people know that the optic is a lens and I’m taking about polishing the plastic part made by Carlco and not the glass part.

Plastic = can sand/polish

Glass = leave alone, do not scratch or damage

I assume this. Hopefully people will figure it out.

One of the advantages of using this particular frosted optic is you can leave it stock (and have a really nice looking beam with even color distribution) or simply polish it for additional throw without having to buy any new optics/lenses.

Oh I knew what you meant, and was not really trying to correct you.

But you know what usually happens when anything is assumed. Big Smile .. Somebody does just the opposite. Facepalm . Wink

So…. that has been addressed now. Thumbs Up

Edit: Right or wrong…. I think most people call the flat glass part of a flashlight the lens.
Most people, it seems to me anyway, call Carlco Optics…… optics.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

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chadvone
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^^ so the fw3a has a lens and a window. Got it.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
IndyArcher wrote:
I just can’t believe the amount of work that goes into these projects. I’m assuming that we’ll have opportunity to donate to those who have worked so diligently once the light is available?

I haven’t had much luck getting in touch with a lot of the original team lately, … (snip) …. However, because people keep asking, I might set up a Patreon account or something.


I honestly hope you do that or a ‘PayPal only email address’ so those that wished could send a token of our appreciation.
A few other could/should do this also, if they wish that is.

ToyKeeper wrote:
If I do though, I want to make it clear that it’s just me, not a team thing. ………….. (snip) …………….. Past attempts to do a team-funding thing haven’t really gone well either, so any donation thingies will probably be done on an individual basis with no illusion that it’s for everyone.

Good, from past experience ; that is exactly how it should be done….. on an individual basis. Donators choose & know exactly who they are donating to. . Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

JasonWW
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chadvone wrote:
^^ so the fw3a has a lens and a window. Got it.

The FW3A has an outer glass lens which is there to prevent scratches.

Then you have the molded plastic lens (or TIR optic) under it which is what directs the light forward from the led.

Here is a comparison of a TIR to a reflector.

There are some single TIR lenses made of glass, but you don’t see them very often. Triple and quad lenses are always plastic due to the complex shape.

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Jambo
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Ok, thanks guys. I just assumed the optic/lens would be clear.

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