If I understand correctly, the E07 issues aren’t really about the host design as much as the solder blob on the springs. Some have thicker blobs than others, which can cause battery fit issues at random. But the FW3A does not have bypassed springs, so it should be more consistent.
I wonder about this, too – I realize it was always planned to be a lighter anodizing, but I personally prefer the darker gray, it just looks sexy ;D
Also I’d like to know how the knurling compares to the BLF A6, since the A6’s is somewhat smooth, not as sharp as some other lights I’ve held. Not like the knurling would make or break the deal for me, I’m just curious!
Thanks again to Toykeeper and everyone involved! You’re awesome.
Huh, how about that! I’d have bet money the ano color actually changed lol. I guess most of us know those brown boxes with the white foam, so comparing to those I’m expecting a somewhat lighter gray. Thanks for clarifying!
Yes, all versions of the light will use this frosted lens. It can be polished clear for less spill light and more throw if that’s what you want. Or simply replace the lens.
I assume people know that the optic is a lens and I’m taking about polishing the plastic part made by Carlco and not the glass part.
Plastic = can sand/polish
Glass = leave alone, do not scratch or damage
I assume this. Hopefully people will figure it out.
One of the advantages of using this particular frosted optic is you can leave it stock (and have a really nice looking beam with even color distribution) or simply polish it for additional throw without having to buy any new optics/lenses.
That’s why I said visually. In my experience high CRI 219C looks greener than their measurements would imply. Even when a CRI80 and CRI90 5000K 219C measure similarly, the CRI90 one always looks greener on a white wall while the original R8000 219C looks more often just pure white.
Also, to me, the higher the CCT, the less green the light seems. Maybe I’m just very allergic to that yellow/green tint that plagues many warmish emitters.