FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight

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ToyKeeper
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maukka wrote:
Just got the light out of its box about an hour ago. … preliminary numbers follow.

Thanks! You got this info posted fast! All I’ve got so far is a note from DHL…

It’s really unfortunate that cool white emitters were used. I’ve asked about why that happened, but I don’t expect to hear back for a while.

hcanning wrote:
When I put my name down for one, I didn’t choose the emitter. Do I need to say what I want now, or do I get given the choice once the group buy activates?

Later. The list data does not include emitter choice, so it doesn’t really help to specify anything about that now. The plan is to make equal amounts with each emitter type, because the poll data of ~500 people was split almost exactly 50/50.

ActiveAl wrote:
would like increase the throw. I get about 12000 cd from my current EDC Thorfire TG06S and would like to at least duplicate it with my new FW3A.

Approximately how much throw would be gained by going to a clear lens? Are there any other easy mods that would further increase the throw?

If you want more throw, polish the 10511 optic or switch to a 10507 optic. The amount of throw attainable is not currently known, but it should be the same as any other XP-L HI triple. It is not going to be a throwy light no matter what you do though, because that’s not how these triples work.

Ryzbor wrote:
Shouldn’t turbo be closer to 3000lm though? The lowest mode is approximately how low? I hope the muggle mode goes up to the 7*7135 level.

Maukka has more accurate and better-calibrated measuring tools than any of the people behind this project. The estimate was about 2500 to 3000 lumens, or maybe even above 3000… and with my light box it would probably exceed that easily. But my light box isn’t calibrated as well as maukka’s, because mine is still using the Zebralight / cpfselfbuilt scale instead of the less-impressive-looking ANSI scale.

In any case, it looks like it does reach 3000-ish lumens, but turbo is only for brief use anyway. It’s a burst mode.

The lowest mode should be about 0.2 lm, roughly.

Muggle mode goes from about ~10 to ~300 lumens. Ish. Or maybe 5 to 250. It hasn’t been properly measured yet, but it does not go up to the highest regulated level. The highest regulated level runs too hot for children to operate safely.

IndyArcher wrote:
I just can’t believe the amount of work that goes into these projects. I’m assuming that we’ll have opportunity to donate to those who have worked so diligently once the light is available?

I haven’t had much luck getting in touch with a lot of the original team lately, like fritz15 and The Miller. However, because people keep asking, I might set up a Patreon account or something. If I do though, I want to make it clear that it’s just me, not a team thing. I don’t know if I could send money to Fritz if I tried, nor do I know if he would want me to. Past attempts to do a team-funding thing haven’t really gone well either, so any donation thingies will probably be done on an individual basis with no illusion that it’s for everyone.

xray291 wrote:
I’ll be honest. … I did … another GB that went wrong resulting in everybody having to pursue PayPal claims. My last post was almost a year ago.

I remember the issues in that one, and I’m worried too. I can only hope things will be better this time. IIRC that was the first project a new business did, and I hope a year of experience has given them enough time to fix things.

Bob_McBob wrote:
I’d like some confirmation the bezel and driver will both be easy to remove in the production version. Lumintop has been known to add surprise glue and that would be a travesty for the FW3A.

The spec includes “no glue”, but I can make sure that point is repeated… and hopefully there won’t be any surprise glue. I can’t confirm there won’t be though, because the nature of surprise glue is, um, surprising.

There might be glue in the tail end though. The decision on tail glue has gone back and forth. But there should be no glue in the head end.

will34 wrote:
all that’s left now is for Lumintop to produce it WITHOUT having their logo etched on the light.

The spec also includes “no logo or other markings on the light itself”, and this point has recently been repeated to Lumintop. I don’t think it’ll have any logo, but as usual, nothing is ever certain until after it happens.

pennzy wrote:
So the color of the XPL hi is cool ?

No, it’s supposed to be a “3D” tint, ~4875K with a slightly pink bias.

djozz wrote:
LOL, I have not noticed any chinese flashlight manufacturer that understands what a production sample is and why it should be made.

Exactly. Facepalm

Touchofred wrote:
can I buy more than I signed up for …?

I don’t know how Neal is planning to handle that. He might have individual coupon codes or something, matching names and quantities exactly. Or he might make it an honor system. Or something else. Really not sure yet. Maybe Neal or M4D M4X can explain how that’ll work?

ferongr wrote:
Uncancel me and put me down for {one}

After a request is cancelled, it cannot be un-cancelled… but a new request can be added. Requests and cancellations go in chronological order, so you’ll be added at the end of the list during the next update.

RapidLux wrote:
Maybe one should explicitly mention that the flashlight is very short and only short unprotected 18650 batteries should be used with it.

Added to the OP.


Anyway, I think I should be getting a sample tomorrow, and plan to do testing and pictures right away.

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maukka wrote:
-Measurements show a bit of green on lower modes, but nothing to worry about, visually it’s clean cool white and much better than most CRI90 219

Shouldn’t a Duv of 0.0052 be slightly greener than a typical CRI90 219C? Looking up a couple 219C measurements (MF01 and 219C GB), it seems like 0.003 is pretty typical.

maukka wrote:
-I would like to have the 1×7135 mode part of the default stepped ramp mode, 7×7135 is there as the highest before turbo

I made a spreadsheet that does the same calc as steps.py as an easier way to figure out these levels. While not defaults, from some quick trial and error, here’s some suggestions that include Max 1×7135 as a discrete step:

Format: Ramp min, Ramp Max, # of Steps
1, 130, 7 (if you want to include moonlight)
22, 130, 6 (similar to default stepped ramp minimum of 20)
15, 140, 6 (higher ramped ceiling for smaller jump to turbo)

maukka wrote:
-Very nice tactile click to the switch. It always works even from the very edge so no precision required.

Excellent! That’s a small detail that means a lot to many of us.

If you have a chance to respond, how’s the feel of the body size-wise compared to the D4? The pictures don’t make it look much smaller, but I’m hoping the difference will be noticeable.

I’ll try to finish the review this week, but as of now, I’m impressed.

Ryzbor wrote:
The lowest mode is approximately how low? I hope the muggle mode goes up to the 7*7135 level.

The stepped ramp starts at level 20 (PWM 19/255). A rough theoretical calculation would suggest, based on Maukka’s 3.6 lumen measurement, that the minimum moonlight is about 0.2 lumens, but I think in reality it tends to end up slightly lower than theory due to how 7135’s react at very low duty cycles.

Muggle mode ranges from level 22 to level 85 (about 20% of the 7×7135 channel). Again, theory only, I estimate that as roughly 5-300 lumens.

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RapidLux wrote:
Maybe one should explicitly mention that the flashlight is very short and only short unprotected 18650 batteries should be used with it. Or else something could be crushed trying to fit in a longer battery? That happened to me with another light. Almost damaged the driver board, barely saved it as I noticed the crushing sound.

If an unprotected button top 30q barely fits, I hope another 1-2mm can be added to the length of the tube before they are manufactured.

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maukka wrote:
I also think it’s strange that my “production” sample has a cool white (>5700K) emitter.

it is a sample,they use the LEDs they are in stock
the production will use the 3D tint

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netprince wrote:
If an unprotected button top 30q barely fits, I hope another 1-2mm can be added to the length of the tube before they are manufactured.

Nope. A 30Q fits fine, but it will not be getting any host changes before production. Use unprotected cells only. Personally, I recommend the 35E cell, because it gives more runtime at every level except turbo, and the FW3A is not designed to operate at turbo for very long. It’s not a hot rod.

Neal wrote:
it is a sample,they use the LEDs they are in stock the production will use the 3D tint

Thanks, this is good news! Smile

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ToyKeeper wrote:
…the FW3A is not designed to operate at turbo for very long. It’s not a hot rod.

I have a feeling it won’t be long before someone turns it into one.

netprince
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ToyKeeper wrote:
netprince wrote:
If an unprotected button top 30q barely fits, I hope another 1-2mm can be added to the length of the tube before they are manufactured.

Nope. A 30Q fits fine, but it will not be getting any host changes before production. Use unprotected cells only. Personally, I recommend the 35E cell, because it gives more runtime at every level except turbo, and the FW3A is not designed to operate at turbo for very long. It’s not a hot rod.

I didn’t mean to suggest the light support protected cells… I was just concerned about varying length of unprotected cells, similar to what is going on with the e07 and the 21700 cells.

ToyKeeper
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netprince wrote:
I was just concerned about varying length of unprotected cells, similar to what is going on with the e07 and the 21700 cells.

If I understand correctly, the E07 issues aren’t really about the host design as much as the solder blob on the springs. Some have thicker blobs than others, which can cause battery fit issues at random. But the FW3A does not have bypassed springs, so it should be more consistent.

hcjake
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Put me down for 2, please!

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maukka wrote:


Now THAT is a beautiful light! Love Thank you very much for the great pictures and info Maukka.

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Put me down for one LH351D please.

John 1:5 "The Light shines in the darkness, and the darkness did not comprehend it."

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Put me down for one, please.

donthelegend
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Please add me to the list for 1.

Streamtronics
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This is super exiting, I can’t wait for mine!

timbo114 wrote:
So I wonder now, which is going to be the true production anno color…


I wonder about this, too – I realize it was always planned to be a lighter anodizing, but I personally prefer the darker gray, it just looks sexy ;D

Also I’d like to know how the knurling compares to the BLF A6, since the A6’s is somewhat smooth, not as sharp as some other lights I’ve held. Not like the knurling would make or break the deal for me, I’m just curious!

Thanks again to Toykeeper and everyone involved! You’re awesome.

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Streamtronics wrote:
This is super exiting, I can’t wait for mine!

timbo114 wrote:
So I wonder now, which is going to be the true production anno color…


I wonder about this, too – I realize it was always planned to be a lighter anodizing, but I personally prefer the darker gray, it just looks sexy ;D

Also I’d like to know how the knurling compares to the BLF A6, since the A6’s is somewhat smooth, not as sharp as some other lights I’ve held. Not like the knurling would make or break the deal for me, I’m just curious!

Thanks again to Toykeeper and everyone involved! You’re awesome.


The correct answer is BOTH because the difference in those pics is just a difference in lighting and/or camera settings. Wink

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wolfstyle
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Please add me for one.

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DavidEF wrote:
The correct answer is BOTH because the difference in those pics is just a difference in lighting and/or camera settings. Wink

Huh, how about that! I’d have bet money the ano color actually changed lol. I guess most of us know those brown boxes with the white foam, so comparing to those I’m expecting a somewhat lighter gray. Thanks for clarifying!

CC268
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I will take one please.

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please add me for another one. order #103

thanks.

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Put me down for one

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Jambo wrote:

One question please, will all the XPL HI versions have a frosted flood lens?


Yes, all versions of the light will use this frosted lens. It can be polished clear for less spill light and more throw if that’s what you want. Or simply replace the lens.
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I’m on No.875 add one more for me please

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JasonWW wrote:
Jambo wrote:

One question please, will all the XPL HI versions have a frosted flood lens?

Yes, all versions of the light will use this frosted lens. It can be polished clear for less spill light and more throw if that’s what you want. Or simply replace the lens.
Technically, I believe you will find it is the plastic ‘Optic’ that is frosted…. not the glass lens.
.

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JasonWW
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I assume people know that the optic is a lens and I’m taking about polishing the plastic part made by Carlco and not the glass part.

Plastic = can sand/polish

Glass = leave alone, do not scratch or damage

I assume this. Hopefully people will figure it out.

One of the advantages of using this particular frosted optic is you can leave it stock (and have a really nice looking beam with even color distribution) or simply polish it for additional throw without having to buy any new optics/lenses.

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I really can’t wait Love

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Yeah, glass is a window unless it’s got curves.
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iamlucky13 wrote:
maukka wrote:
-Measurements show a bit of green on lower modes, but nothing to worry about, visually it’s clean cool white and much better than most CRI90 219

Shouldn’t a Duv of 0.0052 be slightly greener than a typical CRI90 219C? Looking up a couple 219C measurements (MF01 and 219C GB), it seems like 0.003 is pretty typical.

That’s why I said visually. In my experience high CRI 219C looks greener than their measurements would imply. Even when a CRI80 and CRI90 5000K 219C measure similarly, the CRI90 one always looks greener on a white wall while the original R8000 219C looks more often just pure white.

Also, to me, the higher the CCT, the less green the light seems. Maybe I’m just very allergic to that yellow/green tint that plagues many warmish emitters.

iamlucky13 wrote:
If you have a chance to respond, how’s the feel of the body size-wise compared to the D4? The pictures don’t make it look much smaller, but I’m hoping the difference will be noticeable.

The FW3A feels much less chunky.

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JasonWW wrote:
I assume people know that the optic is a lens and I’m taking about polishing the plastic part made by Carlco and not the glass part.

Plastic = can sand/polish

Glass = leave alone, do not scratch or damage

I assume this. Hopefully people will figure it out.

One of the advantages of using this particular frosted optic is you can leave it stock (and have a really nice looking beam with even color distribution) or simply polish it for additional throw without having to buy any new optics/lenses.

Oh I knew what you meant, and was not really trying to correct you.

But you know what usually happens when anything is assumed. Big Smile .. Somebody does just the opposite. Facepalm . Wink

So…. that has been addressed now. Thumbs Up

Edit: Right or wrong…. I think most people call the flat glass part of a flashlight the lens.
Most people, it seems to me anyway, call Carlco Optics…… optics.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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chadvone
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^^ so the fw3a has a lens and a window. Got it.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
IndyArcher wrote:
I just can’t believe the amount of work that goes into these projects. I’m assuming that we’ll have opportunity to donate to those who have worked so diligently once the light is available?

I haven’t had much luck getting in touch with a lot of the original team lately, … (snip) …. However, because people keep asking, I might set up a Patreon account or something.


I honestly hope you do that or a ‘PayPal only email address’ so those that wished could send a token of our appreciation.
A few other could/should do this also, if they wish that is.

ToyKeeper wrote:
If I do though, I want to make it clear that it’s just me, not a team thing. ………….. (snip) …………….. Past attempts to do a team-funding thing haven’t really gone well either, so any donation thingies will probably be done on an individual basis with no illusion that it’s for everyone.

Good, from past experience ; that is exactly how it should be done….. on an individual basis. Donators choose & know exactly who they are donating to. . Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

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