FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

Ok, thanks guys. I just assumed the optic/lens would be clear.

Like this

One please.

I saw maukka’s updates on page 220. The light looks really sharp. Were there beamshot photos of the recent sample posted?

Waiting to hear about how the orders will work because I will likely order more than one. All LH351D 90+ CRI.

I see it has been confirmed it only works with unprotected cells due to length. I only have MTN protected NCR18650GA cells now but I suppose I can buy a few unprotected for this light. Would be convenient if it were compatible with both but it’s ok.

Interesting, I see the 30Q has much less sag at 7A (0.1v less than 18650GA and 0.15v less than 35E), but has less capacity overall and is equivalent at lower currents. And the Sony VTC6 is slightly better than a 30Q.

What is the DD FET current expected to be for this light?
So, button or flat top?

From MTN:
30Q 3000mAh Unprotected button top = 66.6mm
30Q 3000mAh Unprotected flat top = 64.9mm
NCR18650GA 3500mAh Protected = 69.0mm
NCR18650GA 3500mAh Button Top Unprotected = 67mm
NCR18650GA 3500mAh Flat top Unprotected = 65.5mm
18650VTC6 3000mAh 18650 Flat Top = 65.1mm
18650VTC6 3000mAh 18650 Button Top = 66.9mm

Why 7135s on the driver in maukka’s picture are in such unusual position? AFAIK it’s not good for heat dissipation.

I’m in for 2 one of each

No, it has pretty much been a Carlco Optic 10511 Frosted from almost the beginning. Covered by an AR coated glass lens, mostly for optic protection.

Below is from the ORIGINAL POST

Optics

Maukka has not posted beamshots yet.

Ordering details have not been announced, yet.

Amperage should be under 15A, but I’m not sure how much under. It will vary based on battery and led. We should get some exact numbers once the prototypes get delivered and measured.

You want to use unprotected flat top batteries.
Unprotected button top may or may not fit as they vary in length.

Thanks Jason.

I will likely choose the VTC6 flat top, with 30Q flat top being the second choice. I don’t know how the internal resistance of the two compare but I suspect it is slightly higher on the VTC6 which would be OK if a 30Q works.

As TK said above, the 35E will work really well for run time. The LG MJ1 would be great too. They have more capacity, and are not quite as high drain, which would be ideal for this light, since maximum brightness is not the goal. I will just be using the unprotected flat tops that I already have.

:+1: …… So do we need to inform the guy, in the quoted post below; that broke the glass on his Sofirn SP33 that he is actually seeking a replacement window…. not a replacement lens??
Sorry... I just couldn't resist. . :smiley: . :wink:

Neither of the springs is attracted to a magnet.

Yep, we try to help.
This guy will have problems buying replacement lens for the house too… :smiley:

Interested in one with LH351D !

I think it will be difficult to measure current. You can’t take an easy tailcap reading.
One possiblity is with no optics you can extend one lead for the LED and feed that through your clamp meter.

But it seems the optic clamps the LED-BOARD on the shelf?
You need an assistant who press with tweezers the board manually down?

:+1: … He certainly will. :open_mouth::smiley:

I don’t think it will be too hard. Use one hand to hold your main jumper wire to the threads and the other end to the battery.
Then use your other hand and a wire or piece of metal to jumper power to the inner tube. It might be tricky to get two fast touches so as to activate Turbo, but it looks doable.

You lucky thing ,that’s my favourite tint :heart_eyes:

I’m in for one please!

I am confused - is the inner tube fully anodizer even on its ends? How does it make contact?