FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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chadvone
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chadvone wrote:
How about a permanent Donation thread for anyone that is willing to accept donations??

I can think of many people I would donate a small amount of money to.

There has been many reviews that has saved me money.

I own a D4 because of TK’s review, donation sent.

I own several cells based on HJK’s reviews , donation sent.

I have or haven’t bought lights based on robo819, donation sent.

Oh, No way I am gonna forget SB for giving me a place to hang out, donation sent.

Like this

Aardvark
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One please.

hyperduc
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I saw maukka’s updates on page 220. The light looks really sharp. Were there beamshot photos of the recent sample posted?

Waiting to hear about how the orders will work because I will likely order more than one. All LH351D 90+ CRI.

I see it has been confirmed it only works with unprotected cells due to length. I only have MTN protected NCR18650GA cells now but I suppose I can buy a few unprotected for this light. Would be convenient if it were compatible with both but it’s ok.

Interesting, I see the 30Q has much less sag at 7A (0.1v less than 18650GA and 0.15v less than 35E), but has less capacity overall and is equivalent at lower currents. And the Sony VTC6 is slightly better than a 30Q.

What is the DD FET current expected to be for this light?
So, button or flat top?

From MTN:
30Q 3000mAh Unprotected button top = 66.6mm
30Q 3000mAh Unprotected flat top = 64.9mm
NCR18650GA 3500mAh Protected = 69.0mm
NCR18650GA 3500mAh Button Top Unprotected = 67mm
NCR18650GA 3500mAh Flat top Unprotected = 65.5mm
18650VTC6 3000mAh 18650 Flat Top = 65.1mm
18650VTC6 3000mAh 18650 Button Top = 66.9mm

g_damian
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Why 7135s on the driver in maukka’s picture are in such unusual position? AFAIK it’s not good for heat dissipation.

Brawler1588
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I’m in for 2 one of each

teacher
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Jambo wrote:
Ok, thanks guys. I just assumed the optic/lens would be clear.
No, it has pretty much been a Carlco Optic 10511 Frosted from almost the beginning. Covered by an AR coated glass lens, mostly for optic protection. Below is from the ORIGINAL POST

Optics

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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JasonWW
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hyperduc wrote:
I saw maukka’s updates on page 220. The light looks really sharp. Were there beamshot photos of the recent sample posted?

Waiting to hear about how the orders will work because I will likely order more than one. All LH351D 90+ CRI.

I see it has been confirmed it only works with unprotected cells due to length. I only have MTN protected NCR18650GA cells now but I suppose I can buy a few unprotected for this light. Would be convenient if it were compatible with both but it’s ok.

Interesting, I see the 30Q has much less sag at 7A, but has less capacity overall and is equivalent at lower currents.

What is the DD current expected to be for this light?
So, button or flat top?

From MTN:
30Q Unprotected button top = 66.6mm
30Q Unprotected flat top = 64.9mm
NCR18650GA Protected = 69.0mm
NCR18650GA Button Top Unprotected = 67mm
NCR18650GA Flat top Unprotected = 65.5mm


Maukka has not posted beamshots yet.

Ordering details have not been announced, yet.

Amperage should be under 15A, but I’m not sure how much under. It will vary based on battery and led. We should get some exact numbers once the prototypes get delivered and measured.

You want to use unprotected flat top batteries.
Unprotected button top may or may not fit as they vary in length.

hyperduc
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JasonWW wrote:
hyperduc wrote:
I saw maukka’s updates on page 220. The light looks really sharp. Were there beamshot photos of the recent sample posted?

Waiting to hear about how the orders will work because I will likely order more than one. All LH351D 90+ CRI.

I see it has been confirmed it only works with unprotected cells due to length. I only have MTN protected NCR18650GA cells now but I suppose I can buy a few unprotected for this light. Would be convenient if it were compatible with both but it’s ok.

Interesting, I see the 30Q has much less sag at 7A, but has less capacity overall and is equivalent at lower currents.

What is the DD current expected to be for this light?
So, button or flat top?

From MTN:
30Q Unprotected button top = 66.6mm
30Q Unprotected flat top = 64.9mm
NCR18650GA Protected = 69.0mm
NCR18650GA Button Top Unprotected = 67mm
NCR18650GA Flat top Unprotected = 65.5mm


Maukka has not posted beamshots yet.

Ordering details have not been announced, yet.

Amperage should be under 15A, but I’m not sure how much under. It will vary based on battery and led. We should get some exact numbers once the prototypes get delivered and measured.

You want to use unprotected flat top batteries.
Unprotected button top may or may not fit as they vary in length.


Thanks Jason.

I will likely choose the VTC6 flat top, with 30Q flat top being the second choice. I don’t know how the internal resistance of the two compare but I suspect it is slightly higher on the VTC6 which would be OK if a 30Q works.

cabfrank
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As TK said above, the 35E will work really well for run time. The LG MJ1 would be great too. They have more capacity, and are not quite as high drain, which would be ideal for this light, since maximum brightness is not the goal. I will just be using the unprotected flat tops that I already have.

teacher
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CRX wrote:
Yeah, glass is a window unless it’s got curves.
()

)(

[)

Thumbs Up ….. So do we need to inform the guy, in the quoted post below; that broke the glass on his Sofirn SP33 that he is actually seeking a replacement window…. not a replacement lens??
Sorry... I just couldn't resist. . Big Smile . Wink

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1452496#comment-1452496

Hawaiian Eyez wrote:
I have a stock SP33 that I accidentally dropped and the glass cracked… anyone know where I can get a good, inexpensive replacement lens?

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

maukka
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BlueSwordM wrote:
Also, could you check with a magnet if they are steel springs or not?

Neither of the springs is attracted to a magnet.

CRX
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teacher wrote:
So do we need to inform the guy, in the quoted post below; that broke the glass on his Sofirn SP33 that he is actually seeking a replacement window…. not a replacement lens??
Sorry... I just couldn't resist. . Big Smile . Wink
Hawaiian Eyez wrote:
I have a stock SP33 that I accidentally dropped and the glass cracked… anyone know where I can get a good, inexpensive replacement lens?

Yep, we try to help.
This guy will have problems buying replacement lens for the house too.. Big Smile

finges
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Interested in one with LH351D !

joechina
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JasonWW wrote:

Amperage should be under 15A, but I’m not sure how much under. It will vary based on battery and led
We should get some exact numbers once the prototypes get delivered and measured.

I think it will be difficult to measure current. You can’t take an easy tailcap reading.
One possiblity is with no optics you can extend one lead for the LED and feed that through your clamp meter.

But it seems the optic clamps the LED-BOARD on the shelf?
You need an assistant who press with tweezers the board manually down?

teacher
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CRX wrote:
teacher wrote:
So do we need to inform the guy, in the quoted post below; that broke the glass on his Sofirn SP33 that he is actually seeking a replacement window…. not a replacement lens??
Sorry... I just couldn't resist. . Big Smile . Wink
Hawaiian Eyez wrote:
I have a stock SP33 that I accidentally dropped and the glass cracked… anyone know where I can get a good, inexpensive replacement lens?

Yep, we try to help.
This guy will have problems buying replacement lens for the house too.. Big Smile

Thumbs Up … He certainly will. Shocked .. Big Smile

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

JasonWW
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joechina wrote:

I think it will be difficult to measure current. You can’t take an easy tailcap reading.


I don’t think it will be too hard. Use one hand to hold your main jumper wire to the threads and the other end to the battery.
Then use your other hand and a wire or piece of metal to jumper power to the inner tube. It might be tricky to get two fast touches so as to activate Turbo, but it looks doable.

maukka wrote:

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maukka wrote:
I also think it’s strange that my “production” sample has a cool white (>5700K) emitter.

You lucky thing ,that’s my favourite tint Love
WolfA
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I’m in for one please!

"A black bulb which, when switched on, turns the room dark"
(Gyro Gearloose)

kanton
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maukka wrote:


I am confused – is the inner tube fully anodizer even on its ends? How does it make contact?

kent21972
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Put me down for one, please.

mortuus
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what is the inner tube needed for? im confused.

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

maukka
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Muggle mode has an output range of 5-240 lumens.

maukka
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mortuus wrote:
what is the inner tube needed for? im confused.

It’s the conductor for the tailcap e-switch.

It’s not anodized, just looks black in the photo.

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It’s so good to see this alive Love
It is looking fabulous Hat

For those who may be interested in a GAW of this light, check my signature and, if it is the case (see rules in post#1), get IN for the GAW Beer

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 & Tool 25

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses:1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 & 1*7135 / Triple TIR & XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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mlodyulek
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I’m already in for one but count me in for one more.

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I don’t suppose this is possible, but since the FW3A is being shipped with a frosted lens leaning towards flood, and it is meant as an EDC light, for which a mixed beam would arguably be more suitable, what are the chances of having an extra lens type or two for variety as an optional extra to be selected when ordering if so inclined?

I certainly wouldn’t want to start sanding my ONLY lens, I would rather swop and experiment with spares, but separate orders mean more shipping and receiving fees, not cost effective on such small purchases.

Beam me up!

JasonWW
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It’s a narrow beam, lightly frosted lens which makes the beam look much nicer plus gives a little extra spill light. It should not lean towards being floody. Here is the 10511.

I doubt Lumintop would offer extra lenses, but maybe Neal would.

The problem is what other lens would they carry? MTN E carries 5 different ones and there’s probably more than that.

Maybe a clear version of the narrow beam, the 10507? I guess it would be the next most likely one people would want. Just keep in mind that it can produce some ugly artifacts which is why it’s not used in the first place.

ToyKeeper wrote:

With a 10507 optic the beam is basically just a circle, almost like a narrower version of how a zoomie looks in wide mode. At the edge of the circle it has an off-colored corona, and then outside of that is a barely perceptible spill area in the shape of a triangle. So for practical purposes it’s a hotspot-only beam with no significant spill, and the hotspot has a thin warm corona around the edge. It looks a lot like a blurry projection of the sun.

With a 10511 optic the beam is totally smooth and has no sudden changes in tint, temperature, or brightness. So I’m keeping the 10511 in mine.

ToyKeeper wrote:
I still think 10511 is Where It’s At. Big Smile

For XP-G2, the official specs are:

  • 10507: 4.8 cd/lm
  • 10511: 5.5 cd/lm

For XP-G3, the ratings are lower:

  • 10507: 3.1 cd/lm
  • 10511: 2.7 cd/lm

Nichia 219c has similar ratings:

  • 10507: 3.3 cd/lm
  • 10511: 2.9 cd/lm

Not sure why the relative throwiness reverses sometimes, but the 10511’s throw increases if you polish the frosted part by rubbing it on fabric or something… and afterward it still has less corona artifacts than the 10507. It’s too bad they don’t seem to come in a non-frosted 10511 variety.

Here are a few configuration estimates, taking into account the optic specs and an estimated lumen count:

  • 219c w/ 10507: ~3000 lm, ~9.9 kcd lux
  • 219c w/ 10511: ~2950 lm, ~8.5 kcd lux
  • XP-G2 w/ 10507: ~2500 lm, ~11.9 kcd lux
  • XP-G2 w/ 10511: ~2400 lm, ~13.2 kcd lux
  • XP-G3 w/ 10507: ~3600 lm, ~11.1 kcd lux
  • XP-G3 w/ 10511: ~3500 lm, ~9.5 kcd lux
  • XP-L HI w/ 10507: ~3350 lm, (no cd/lm data available, guessing ~18.7 kcd lux)
  • XP-L HI w/ 10511: ~3300 lm, (no cd/lm data available, guessing ~20.8 kcd lux)

These are all totally theoretical though, using numbers from Carclo’s specs and measurements of similar lights. They’re probably pretty far off from reality. Mostly I just wanted to show that there are a variety of sweet spots for different use cases. The FW3A’s specified config is one of those sweet spots, but other options might be interesting later too.

Mostly, I just think the 10511’s beam looks a lot smoother, and the difference in throw is usually small. Here’s how they compare in two of my lights… 10507 on the left, 10511 on the right:

(in case the quality of the embed is low, here’s the direct link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UnWO8iN4Fzg )

JasonWW
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Toykeeper, could you maybe put your beam shot comparisons of the different lenses, or a link to them, somewhere in the beginning of the thread? That way people can find them easily.

Sorry, I can’t find the post. I’m pretty sure it was you. Maybe it was someone else. I remember they were like backyard night shots showing the hotspot size and amount of spill light.

iamlucky13
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hyperduc wrote:
What is the DD FET current expected to be for this light?

I’d guess 10-15A.

Although the 35E and 18650GA are rated for 8A and 10A respectively for continuous drain, they seem to handle 15A reasonably well for short periods of time.

The 30Q and VTC6 might be better choices if you plan to run on turbo a lot, but the heat generated by the FW3A in turbo will be more of a limit than the battery.

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Please put me down for 4 more (total of 6)

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