Amperage should be under 15A, but I’m not sure how much under. It will vary based on battery and led. We should get some exact numbers once the prototypes get delivered and measured.
You want to use unprotected flat top batteries.
Unprotected button top may or may not fit as they vary in length.
I will likely choose the VTC6 flat top, with 30Q flat top being the second choice. I don’t know how the internal resistance of the two compare but I suspect it is slightly higher on the VTC6 which would be OK if a 30Q works.
As TK said above, the 35E will work really well for run time. The LG MJ1 would be great too. They have more capacity, and are not quite as high drain, which would be ideal for this light, since maximum brightness is not the goal. I will just be using the unprotected flat tops that I already have.
:+1: …… So do we need to inform the guy, in the quoted post below; that broke the glass on his Sofirn SP33 that he is actually seeking a replacement window…. not a replacement lens?? Sorry... I just couldn't resist. . .
I think it will be difficult to measure current. You can’t take an easy tailcap reading.
One possiblity is with no optics you can extend one lead for the LED and feed that through your clamp meter.
But it seems the optic clamps the LED-BOARD on the shelf?
You need an assistant who press with tweezers the board manually down?
I don’t think it will be too hard. Use one hand to hold your main jumper wire to the threads and the other end to the battery.
Then use your other hand and a wire or piece of metal to jumper power to the inner tube. It might be tricky to get two fast touches so as to activate Turbo, but it looks doable.
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