FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

Thanks Jason.

I will likely choose the VTC6 flat top, with 30Q flat top being the second choice. I don’t know how the internal resistance of the two compare but I suspect it is slightly higher on the VTC6 which would be OK if a 30Q works.

As TK said above, the 35E will work really well for run time. The LG MJ1 would be great too. They have more capacity, and are not quite as high drain, which would be ideal for this light, since maximum brightness is not the goal. I will just be using the unprotected flat tops that I already have.

:+1: …… So do we need to inform the guy, in the quoted post below; that broke the glass on his Sofirn SP33 that he is actually seeking a replacement window…. not a replacement lens??
Sorry... I just couldn't resist. . :smiley: . :wink:

Neither of the springs is attracted to a magnet.

Yep, we try to help.
This guy will have problems buying replacement lens for the house too… :smiley:

Interested in one with LH351D !

I think it will be difficult to measure current. You can’t take an easy tailcap reading.
One possiblity is with no optics you can extend one lead for the LED and feed that through your clamp meter.

But it seems the optic clamps the LED-BOARD on the shelf?
You need an assistant who press with tweezers the board manually down?

:+1: … He certainly will. :open_mouth::smiley:

I don’t think it will be too hard. Use one hand to hold your main jumper wire to the threads and the other end to the battery.
Then use your other hand and a wire or piece of metal to jumper power to the inner tube. It might be tricky to get two fast touches so as to activate Turbo, but it looks doable.

You lucky thing ,that’s my favourite tint :heart_eyes:

I’m in for one please!

I am confused - is the inner tube fully anodizer even on its ends? How does it make contact?

Put me down for one, please.

what is the inner tube needed for? im confused.

Muggle mode has an output range of 5-240 lumens.

It’s the conductor for the tailcap e-switch.

It’s not anodized, just looks black in the photo.

It’s so good to see this alive :heart_eyes:
It is looking fabulous :face_with_monocle:

For those who may be interested in a GAW of this light, check my signature and, if it is the case (see rules in post#1), get IN for the GAW :beer:

I’m already in for one but count me in for one more.

I don’t suppose this is possible, but since the FW3A is being shipped with a frosted lens leaning towards flood, and it is meant as an EDC light, for which a mixed beam would arguably be more suitable, what are the chances of having an extra lens type or two for variety as an optional extra to be selected when ordering if so inclined?

I certainly wouldn’t want to start sanding my ONLY lens, I would rather swop and experiment with spares, but separate orders mean more shipping and receiving fees, not cost effective on such small purchases.

It’s a narrow beam, lightly frosted lens which makes the beam look much nicer plus gives a little extra spill light. It should not lean towards being floody. Here is the 10511.

I doubt Lumintop would offer extra lenses, but maybe Neal would.

The problem is what other lens would they carry? MTN E carries 5 different ones and there’s probably more than that.

Maybe a clear version of the narrow beam, the 10507? I guess it would be the next most likely one people would want. Just keep in mind that it can produce some ugly artifacts which is why it’s not used in the first place.