WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

cool,
btw I just figured out your handle… clever :wink:
I kept reading nobone shot dog and could not understand why the dog got shot… LOL

Clemence is working on some AAA Jetbeams and tells me he really likes the idea of researching the RRT-01 after that…

I have huge respect for his work and LEDs… seems like a cant lose proposition… unless he finds the light unsuitable or not up to his standards

Im very hopeful we are about to witness the birth of a whole new generation of High CRI Rotaries!

and, credit to @MascaratumB for leading me to the RRT-01 I have in my pocket, as well as for making me aware of the new version… this is all his fault!:slight_smile:

I think Karma rewarded him with one like this:

now about 18350 cells:
Recently I started using an unprotected 1200 mAh IMR from illumn

Im enjoying the extra capacity, and am checking the voltage on my meter, and keeping an eye out for any dimming to alert me to recharge

btw
I also have an unprotected 750mAh IMR from illumn, and it does not work in the RRT-01, the button top is too wide. do not buy the 3rd cell from the left. The first two on left are protected 16340 I have been using. Far right is my new Unprotected IMR…

I note on page 1, that CRX mantions he modded an 18350 to add protection to an IMR cell.
I see now that protected 1200mAh 18350 are available. I plan to try one.

here is a review of the protected 1200mAh IMR. It is 5mm longer, but Im pretty sure its going to fit in the RRT-01… stay tuned to next weeks installment of…

Whats it got in its pocketses?:wink:

Thanks Jon, and I added a sig line to my posts. I got it from an old timer that I used to work with. :sunglasses:

Neat, a new RRT01. I’ve enjoyed my old one. I got a particularly good 5000K tint, pure white or maybe just a tiny bit below the BBL, with even tint across the beam. It can do anything from 0.000001 lm to about 700 lm, with immediate access to the whole range thanks to the analog ring.

I have a V11R also, but it’s bigger and I don’t like having to flip the light around to switch between the button and the ring. Also, mine is cool white.

The RRT01 is one of the nicer lights I’ve used. The main issue I had with it is that it has no LVP and no battery check function, so I could never tell if my battery was nearly full or nearly empty. I had to use protected cells to avoid cell damage, which meant a ~650 mAh 16340 instead of a ~1150 mAh 18350, and with the variable output and lack of voltage indication, I never had any idea how much runtime to expect.

Aside from that though, very nice light, and I used it as an EDC for quite a while. I wonder if the new version adds LVP or battcheck.

Hhmm. Guess the question mark is that I don't see it yet on the Jetbeam website. Now Niteye and Jetbeam are one in the same, and don't see it there either.

So, is it truly a legit new offering from JETBeam?

here for sale: https://www.hkequipment.net/product-p/rrt01.htm

http://www.jetbeamlight.com/product_t4.html

http://www.niteyelight.com/

I do like hkequipment but they still sell Spark lights and that company doesn't seem to exist anymore and I see some new inventory listed of Spark's on the hkequipment website, so, where are those coming from? Wish we knew what really goes on, sometimes... Could be a sub-contract manufacturer is simply running off a new batch of an old light and keeping the branding on them. So many possibilities.

This light is also for sale at battery junction. They are a US based distributor that I have purchased batteries and chargers from in the past with good results.

Ahah, I guess we both can live with that burden on my back :wink: :beer:
Happy owners won’t comply :stuck_out_tongue:

It surely did and I’m pretty happy with that as well :smiley:

I guess CRX is the best person to explain about that mod, I will only be able to provide the “final” version of the battery in comparison with Keeppower and Aspire!

Hum…I don’t know if I would be that sure jon, please note that we don’t know what’s in the interior bottom of the flashlight! It may not have the space to fit a protected Keepower, that are really long!! I take as comparison the Wuben 16340 battery (protected) that is much longer than the normal 16340s, including the Olight 16340 (from S1R Baton 1)

Too much wish to get one of these…and so few money to do that :weary:

I’m sure it was a Keeppower 850-900mAh cell or similar but I also may have applied a protection circuit to a flat top 18350, sorry I really can’t remember exactly.

Anyway the important part is that there is no button top, the protection strip is soldered flat on top of the positive contact, also I had to file down the lanyard stud which was protruding into the cell compartment and I might have shaved a little off of the positive driver contact plus sanded down the surrounding plastic RVP ring to make the protected cell just fit.

I was referred here by jon_slider. I have one of the first generation RRT-01, and it is my favorite for the control ring with no detents, no tail switch and ultra low level. It has the original emitter, which is not my favorite.

I would be in for buying a Hi-CRI modded light from Clemence.

Welcome to the conversation Ironhorse.
I look forward to learning more about the new RRT-01 with you.
And I look forward to Clemence sharing his research and hopefully offering High CRI modded RRT-01 options.

I also really enjoy the super low modes and smooth ramping of the RRT-01. The only thing I wish it had was a low battery indicator. In the meantime I check my battery with a voltmeter on regular intervals, and I am also keeping an eye out for any dimming caused by low voltage.

The other day it seemed like I was needing to turn the dial further than usual to get a typical amount of light, so I put it on my light meter and discovered the maximum was about half of normal. I then tested the Protected 16340 battery and found it was near 3.06 volts, so I swapped it out for a fresh one, and recharged.

I know people feel IMR chemistry is safer regarding its reaction to overdischarge, but Im even more interested than ever, in trying the 1200mAh protected version. Im seriously considering driving the 36 miles to illumn.com today, to pick one up.

It is good to find so many people who appreciate the RRT-01. I keep meeting more and more of you, and am glad we are finding each other through these discussions.

Rotary UI and High CRI are two of my favorite features these days. Its a good time to be learning of new RRT-01 LED, battery, and new model options together.

.

Im starting to wonder, who among us is using unprotected 18350 IMR in our RRT-01’s, and what strategies do they use, to manage unprotected batteries safely, and to prevent overdischarge?

Until recently I have relied on protected 16340, but atm Im experimenting with unprotected IMR. My use pattern is not high brightness, nor long runtime, so I dont have high risk of overdischarging, and Im using my voltmeter a couple times a week to keep an eye on my usage patterns.

The original RRT-01 is easy to emitter swap. The bezel was not glued and inside is space for a standard sized star (been awhile since I opened mine up, but I think it was 16mm).

The only important thing to keep in mind when opening it:

When unscrewing the bezel one hand (or pliers) should grip the bezel. The other should grip the head ABOVE the magnetic ring. Do not grip the head below the magnetic ring. If you do there is a chance that instead of the bezel unscrewing, the 2 halves of the head around the ring might unscrew. If that happens while the star is installed, you will torque the driver wires and possibly rip them off the driver. The wires can be repaired or replaced, but it is not easy as the driver is a sandwich and the wires are attached in the middle.

If you need more help gripping the strip of head above the magnetic ring apply grip tape.

Yeah these lights will take the cell below healthy voltage without you noticing if you’re not careful. Great otherwise.

Thank you for sharing info.

I decided to do some testing to correlate lumen levels with voltage levels

What I learned is a CR123 cell below 2.9v, cannot achieve 100 lumens maximum
a CR123 cell, below 3.1v cannot achieve 200 lumens maximum
and the IMR, above 3.9v, can achieve over 400 lumens maximum

for visual learners like me:

note that for the IMR, I had to switch the scale on the light meter by 10x (yellow arrows), so the 43.7 corresponds to 437 lumens. In all cases, the rotary dial is at Maximum.

This is with an N219b 4500k 9080 LED mod in my RRT-01. My light meter is calibrated to my 200 lumen HDS.

Conclusion, when my RRT-01 w IMR battery drops to 25% of initial brightness, it is not yet overdischarged, and still a safe time to recharge.

Hello Firelight2,

I Bought a JetBeam Tc-R1 Titanium Flashlight that I Used about 4 years and Loved the Magnetic Ring Brightness Control, until it was lost. I bought a used one on Flea(Bay) a few years ago and in only 3 weeks when changing the Battery and Not (paying attention) I was changing the Battery when The wires twisted and pulled out of the 2 Boards :cry: . It had been repaired and No Red locktite applied to keep it from coming apart :open_mouth: . I Separated the 2 Boards and soldered new wires in Place, But they were Not flexible and came loose when I reassembled the Head. I now have silicone insulated flexible wire and Hope it will work the next time I try to repair it (if the Boards are good) it May work I Hope? If Not, I will have to find someone else to Modify it for Me because I have been without it Way too Long & I Love that type of Brightness Control that goes from 1-500 with a Simple Twist of the Ring!

I do have an Old Original RRT-01 that I use and Love But it’s wearing out and I Hope the New Model is as Good and Smooth as these Old Ones???

jon_slider;
Thank You for letting Everyone know about the New Model that’s being made. I Appreciate it So Much as this Is the Best and Easiest Ui Light Control Ever made, Hands Down! My All Time Favorite that I Can’t seem to do without, So Thank You for the Heads Up.

Actually it was me who did the heads-up but no problem with that :smiley:

Here’s a video from hkequipment on their thread :

Am I seeing left hand threads?

Hmmmm, pretty smart, that way you won’t accidentally unscrew the head when turning it on.

I remember my old RRT01 head needing to be tightened pretty hard to keep that from happening.

Now if we get LVP and a stronger indent in the off position to prevent accidental activation in the pocket we will have a winner.

My old RRT01 used to turn on in my pocket all the time if I didn’t loosen the head to lock it out.

Turning the light (ring) ON is the same direction as unscrewing the head. Turning it Off tightens the head. Strange! :frowning:
Is the original RRT this way?

No the Original turned the Opposite way, Right Hand Threads to tighten the Head and the Ring turned to the Right for more Brightness which was the opposite direction iirc?

MascaratumB
Thank You for the Heads Up.
This light looks like it’s a Larger Diameter than the old style. With the Ring turning the other direction I Don’t know if I could get use to that very easily? My Sunwayman Rotery Lights turn to the Right for More Lumens Like the Old style JetBeam. That would take some getting use too. But it still looks Good.

The video from HKE is, confusingly, mirrored (at 0:03 you can see the writing on the light is all backwards). This means the threads are normal and the brightness is increased by turning the ring clockwise (when looking at the tail), this is the same as on the V11R.

I have an older RRT-01 that I love for its looks and magnetic control ring, as well as super low lumens mode, but I don’t like the beam tint at all. :stuck_out_tongue:

I would also be interested to know if Clemence can offer the RRT-01 with Hi CRI emitter. If cost isn’t too scary, I could go for that.