Manker E14 Mods

CRX,

The last picture (down-right)…was it there before? :stuck_out_tongue:

Yes it was there, I just re-arranged stuff.

Oops, I fail to remember that then, sorry :person_facepalming:
Anyway, that “all black” version is quite nice :+1: :slight_smile:

Any chance on showing us how you did the copper rings & tailcap??

Persistent aren’t you :smiley:

I can’t show you, some experimentation is required on your part but I used an 18650 tube, cut some of the threads off to suit the cell and switch length then made up some copper circles of the correct size and soldered them.
I placed them on the end of the cut down tube with some JB weld and spacing them with 1mm o-rings , removed the o-rings once hardened, applied more JB weld and smoothed off.
Another smaller copper ring from 1mm wire for around the switch boot.

Yeah that was done with cold bluing solution.

Can you provide a link to the 18500 tube you used? Anybody else familiar with it? I have a lot of 18500’s.

S41 18650 tube.

New tube and tail looks awesome :star:

What model# clicky switch is the black one you upgraded to? Tks!

https://intl-outdoor.com/forward-clickytactical-switch-module-17mm-pcb-p-461.html

Thank you!

Apparently they don’t fit the convoy lights so I’m SOL.

What model? You can usually fit these in lights with rubber boots that have a reverse clicky switch, it just requires a little work like cutting the nub off the boot, maybe a different washer and sometimes sanding down the retaining ring a little.
I put one in this S2+.

You just need to equalize the heights.

Hi CRX,
how many of the measurements can you give me of the copper head of the e14/s41? in the perfect world I’d love a CAD :wink:

Em, none :smiley: . I sold this light quite a while ago.
Maybe another owner could help you out.

Thanks CRX

Hi all
Just checked my E14 and found the same faults as CRX great to have this thread for reference.
My first time going this deep into a light and it is fun.
One novice question why did you switch the + and - leads?
Does that cause any problems if I reuse the stock driver and switch?
Thanks much.

There was a huge uproar at the time about a safety issue with the positive MCPCB trace being on the outside, very close to the fixing screws so I turned the LEDs around on the pads and connected the wires correspondingly.
You wont have any problems using the original switch and driver as long as they are connected properly, ie you can’t just swap the wires, you would need to reflow the emitters with the same polarity.

Thank you I understand now.
When I screwed the pcb down I cranked pretty hard on the screws and one of them shorted through the red paint and made smoke.
I checked and led`s still work so I need to insulate those screws or use plastic ones.
cheers

Yeah, that was the problem. Really not good, if that had been the negative trace instead the light would have just come on in direct drive, single mode but instead with the trace the way it is it shorts the cell :person_facepalming: