What did you mod today?

Beautiful valley! And the castle has an appeal all it’s own… thanks for those. Now you’re going to have to build a Grey Mare’s Tail light in honor of the moment. :smiley: hahahahaha

I replaced the battery in my new Convoy T2 with a ladda 2450.
Is that considered a mod? I’m slightly worried that it may not be . . .

Congrats on your meatball powered mod! and welcome to the forum

Barbarian! But don’t worry about it :smiley:

Here you go ;)

CRX Copper & Brass Mares Tail Nichia 219B - Beta-QR - AAA - Fw Clicky Tail Sw - 72lm.
Copper & brass construction
Copper shell, Brass core
Nichia 219B-V1 emitter
12mm ARC glass window :D
OP reflector
Copper & brass hand made pill
Beta-QR 2 mode driver
Starts in low mode
Copper forward clicky tail switch
Rubber switch boot underneath
AAA/ Eneloop cell compatible
Lockout-able

Max - 72lm/ 15lm OTF
Length – 85mm
Width – 15mm
Weight – 65g (with Eneloop AAA)

Ewww. But it works!

Folomov 18650S with an Attiny

LOL…can I have it? :wink:

Seriously though, love it! GITD and little lighty thingies all over a light just make it 10x better. Nice work!

Ah, you make me smile, thanks :slight_smile:

Installed Lexel’s aux LED board in my D4 last night:

It was too bright for me. The blue LEDs seemed as bright as moonlight mode! I added a random resistor taken from an old driver to dim it down. This helped quite a bit.

Mods I am still contemplating for this light:

  • The random resistor I added to the aux LED circuit is wired to the aux LED board between the positive lead and the board. I’m thinking of moving this resistor to a more secure location on the driver between the negative lead and the ground pad on the 7135 chip.
  • The aux LED board is currently wired directly to positive so is always on. I need to look at that walkthrough and figure out how to enable aux LED support in the driver so the driver can control the aux LEDs.
  • I’d like to try to make a lighted switch on this D4 with one or two LEDs. The plan is to drill a hole through a bare portion of the switch cavity for the LED switch wire. Inside the switch cavity I plan to mount an LED or two plus resistors. Not sure how well this will work. Possible complications include the resistors and LEDs being felt by the finger through the switch button, which might require dremeling a cavity for them.
  • I plan to replace the black switch boot with a clear or white one so the switch light is visible. To make the new switch boot I plan to cut up a standard clicky switch boot. However, I do not know if this will be flexible enough. One concern is that I might not be able to sufficiently shape the new switch boot to provide the right tactile feel.

Very nice.

Yeah that’s what I used for a lighted switch on the D4, two 1206 green LEDs & two resistors, quite a difficult job mucking about with trying to get the switch right.
If you could dremmel out space for the compnents that would prob be better but you’ll have a lot of experimetation with this :smiley:

I actually used copper tape with the SMDs & wires soldered on and some 12mm acrylic tube to give a lighted ring effect, lot of trial & error there.

Nice mode CRX,
Have you tried to make that switch “capacitive”, like measuring conductivity between “button” and body!?

Thought about that method before and did a little experimentation but gave up when I couldn’t find suitable switches easily.

I was looking at something like this 12V toutch switch for led strip, maybe it could be moded for 4,2V application?

You got your 18650S working with an Attiny? Will it run Anduril?

Baby steps.

The t85 is a different beast than the 13a… The end goal is a direct replacement FET+1 running anduril!

Yes please!

It would be AWESOME to have Anduril in a tailcap mounted driver that doesn’t need an extra electrical connection to the head. With such a driver, it wouldn’t be hard to mod any tailcap clicky light into an e-switch light with Anduril.

when are you going to sell these Anduril tailcap drivers? I’ll take 10! :stuck_out_tongue:

Reminds me of the game Operation.

For this one you will truly need to be a surgeon:

https://www.illumn.com/pre-order-folomov-edc-c1-brass-nichia-e21a-95-cri-335-lumen-flashlight-10440-battery-w-micro-usb-charge-port-included.html

Project “Aphrodite”.

This flashlight is product of teamwork Tamagotchi and k_4.

Length: 97.75 mm
Head width: 23.6 mm
Handle width: 21 mm
Weight: 49 grams

Carclo 10507, 3x XP-L Hi V2 3A, serial connection.
Driver Caerus II output 2.2A
18650 battery







Very nice! Love the way the texture on the battery tube is done :+1:

(nails were very nicely done too :party: )

Thanks for your comments .
:slight_smile: