FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

My bad it was djozz making the comment and maukka found it strange that his “production” sample had a cool white emitter

This has already been discussed so there should be no confusion. This is also why Lumintop wants to glue the tail cap. The tail cap and or clip is not supposed to be removed. It’s supposed to be unscrewed at the head for battery access.

This last round was supposed to be a production sample. It clearly wasnt, though because they don’t have the right led or lens. It also looks like they need to tweak the fitment of the driver. It’s diameter is a tiny bit too big or it’s hole is a bit too small causing some samples to not sit down in it’s machined hole.

The parts issue will be fixed when the leds and optics arrive. The driver fitment issue should be easy to fix with some tweaks.

Where? I am sorry, this thread gets flooded with interest-list entries. We are at post number 6800something on page number 230. I couldn’t find the word “glue” on the first page with the specs. And I don’t think it was a good idea to mix discusison and ordering in the first place. Maybe keep those separated for future projects?

Long story short: I can’t find the discussions about it - could you provide me with a link to it?

The last message from TK said it wasn’t clear if it will be glued or not. See:

And judging from what Bluzie wrote in the TLF, he isn’t aware of the tail cap getting glued either. He wrote for the latest prototype he received (translated from his post here: Lumintop FW3A - Diskussion - Neue Bilder - Wahl des LED Typs | Taschenlampen Forum):

I just asked in the TLF discussion thread about it - interested in their answer.

And I really hope there will be an option to order it without glue in the tail cap like for the E07. I really hate glue in products with a passion.

Use the “search within the thread” button. Post #1124 from The Miller.

I agree that info should be in the specs

I am not sure, but that seems to be about glue on the head only(?) We are talking about glue on the tailcap.

Jason is correct. It has been talked about previously in this thread that the light would not work correctly without the clip.
Do I remember exactly where that was discussed? Nope.
If I can find it without to much trouble I’ll post a link.
But I have read every post & it has been discussed.
That is why there has been the “back and forth” about gluing the tailcap.

Where is the buyer list ? Just want to make sure I’m on it. Thanks

In my testing, it works fine without the clip. The clip isn’t even held tight, which is why there’s an extra O-ring there to keep the clip from spinning freely. What Bluzie saw was probably caused by the driver fit issue, not the clip.

I don’t really recommend removing the clip, but it shouldn’t cause any functional issues. It’ll just roll easily, and it leaves a gap which people might want to fill with a thicker O-ring or something.

Anyway, I thought these were meant to be production samples, but it seems they’re not. However, the optic and LED types should be easy to fix by simply waiting for the parts to arrive. The only actual issue I’m concerned about now is making sure the driver can fit into the spot it’s meant to go in, instead of resting on top.

It is meant to fit like this. This is good:

But what I found on mine was this. This is bad:

It can be fixed by removing a little bit more material from one specific spot inside the pill. Even if they’ve already manufactured and anodized the parts, it’s a thing which could still be corrected without throwing the parts away, since that part isn’t supposed to be anodized anyway. And it was done correctly on earlier prototypes, so I think they’ll be able to get it right.

Okay, thanks for confirming that it works. I was just really confused by the argumentation why this should not work (the clip acting as a spacer). Still hoping that glue for the tail cap is opt-out at least if it will ever make it into production lights.

Wow, okay, that’s worse than I initially thought it would be. Kind thought it would just not be able to touch the shelf completely, but that is really bad. I really would have thought they would notice that while assembling the prototypes. oO Thanks for the drawing!

Interested.

Well that is even better. I was remembering that the clip was essential for the proper spacing.

So the reason Lumintop wants to glue the tail is just to keep the switch parts from falling out since there is no retaining ring?

I wonder if they could put a dab of glue on the switch pcb instead of the cap threads? Maybe it would effect the contact between the pcb and the cap? IDK.

that clip…would that fit on an S2??? I could use a few

I think that clip could be used on a LOT of lights! Been wondering if they’d sell them separately since the first pics were posted, thinking D4, HDS, and a few other larger lights.
It’s a beauty.

I’ll take 1 please. LH351D

Clips are money makers I have no idea why people don't make them widely available .

One of these (or all) probably fits.

https://www.banggood.com/TOWILD-Lantern-DIY-Flashlight-Disffuser-for-Reading-Table-Lamp-Camping-Lantern-p-1306663.html?cur_warehouse=CN

https://www.banggood.com/Nitecore-NTW25-LED-Flashlight-Diffuser-For-Diameter-25_4MM-p-937541.html?cur_warehouse=CN

https://www.banggood.com/Nitecore-NDF25-LED-Flashlight-Diffuser-25_4mm-For-EA1EA2EC1-p-937555.html?cur_warehouse=CN

The first is flexible (25-30mm), the other 2 are specified as 25.4mm.

The FW3A head is measured at 25.5mm but i am betting this is at the absolute thickest part where the knurling is and that the front of the head is slightly smaller… (25.4mm??? :slight_smile: )

The Nitecore (3rd one) looks very close, just not as opaque.

I agree. If at all possible, you should wait until someone has tested the production version and not rush to buy it the second it comes available. This should go with any light, but I know it will be hard especially with the FW3A :slight_smile:

Glue on the switch pcb would be better than glue on the threads of the tailcap, if it is possible and will still work.

I have a NDF25, actually. It’s … not good. It doesn’t fit well, and it’s virtually transparent. It mostly just sends light out the front, after filtering the light a bit like a prism to make the beam an ugly yellow.

The FW3A diameter is 25.5mm, not 25.4mm, and this is actually enough of a difference to make some 25.4mm cones not fit well.

I’ve tried every diffuser I can find at banggood and fasttech, and a few from independent stores too. I haven’t found one I like, and the closest one so far is the Fenix AOD-S. It’s just slightly too tight, not opaque enough, and an odd shape… but it works at least okay-ish.