An exacto knife worked. Pingpong balls have the same flaw as most other diffusors: more light is directed upwards than sideways (with flashlight facing up).
There’s other ways to make holes in thin plastic that don’t involve drills…
Get a Cu pipe slightly smaller than the head diameter of the light, heat it up, let it melt a hole.
Clearly won’t work though, in America ping-pong balls are only used for one thing: adolescents throw them at plastic cups, arranged like the pins in bowling and filled with an inch of beer in the bottom. They repeat this nightly for 4 to 8 years till they’ve spent $100k and “earned” an almost useless piece of paper with the name of the “school” at which they played the above game most often.
Any other use of said “ping-pong balls” is strictly forbidden here in America.
—
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
An exacto knife worked. Pingpong balls have the same flaw as most other diffusors: more light is directed upwards than sideways (with flashlight facing up). Pic is a pp ball on a E2L triple.
Not an optimum solution then. But thanks for the exacto knife tip.
There’s other ways to make holes in thin plastic that don’t involve drills…
Get a Cu pipe slightly smaller than the head diameter of the light, heat it up, let it melt a hole.
Clearly won’t work though, in America ping-pong balls are only used for one thing: adolescents throw them at plastic cups, arranged like the pins in bowling and filled with an inch of beer in the bottom. They repeat this nightly for 4 to 8 years till they’ve spent $100k and “earned” an almost useless piece of paper with the name of the “school” at which they played the above game most often.
Any other use of said “ping-pong balls” is strictly forbidden here in America.
That reminds me of the quote:“college is just a bar with a high cover charge”.
Ping pong ball.. I was wondering how, I thought of trying a belt sander…it’d cut a plane through the ball..just stop when the diameter is right….
I’d try but I dont have a ping pong ball
An exacto knife worked. Pingpong balls have the same flaw as most other diffusors: more light is directed upwards than sideways (with flashlight facing up).
Its not the Ping pong balls fault. The flaw is in the flashlight.
Will the code be the same for the LH351D and XP-L versions? I put in for an XP-L but now I’m thinking about getting the LH351D version. I guess the BLF answer would be to get both
I agree. If at all possible, you should wait until someone has tested the production version and not rush to buy it the second it comes available. This should go with any light, but I know it will be hard especially with the FW3A
Well that is sorta flawed logic. If nobody buys the first run except for a few people, then there won’t be a second run. I can’t think of a single company that would produce say, 10000 of a product, look back and say, “well nobody bought the first run, lets make 10000 more”. Even if most people would wait it out before buying one, you would still get a first run product. They aren’t going to throw the first run away and run a second batch.
I can’t think of a single company that would produce say, 10000 of a product, look back and say, “well nobody bought the first run, lets make 10000 more”.
I hope nobody really thinks they would make 10,000 before they go on sale. That is not realistic. They might make 500 a week, maybe. They might have 2 or 3 weeks made up when they go on sale. Depending on demand, they adjust production. This is more realistic.
I hope nobody really thinks they would make 10,000 before they go on sale. That is not realistic. They might make 500 a week, maybe. They might have 2 or 3 weeks made up when they go on sale. Depending on demand, they adjust production. This is more realistic.
The number itself wasn’t meant to be realistic. The concept of making something nobody will buy and then making more of them was the point. The number was unimportant, it was a representation of the logic behind suggesting people not rush to buy the first run and wait on a second.
TK, that button effect is simply from the circular machining marks, it’s present on virtually every flat surface machined true on a lathe. Depends a lot on the feed rate but yeah, see it all the time cutting ends of bar stock on the lathe.
A flower is simply the effect of rearranging some of the chemicals in dirt into a different form, and people see them all the time… but I still like to stop and smell them.
Actually most of the atoms in a flower come from the air
I hope nobody really thinks they would make 10,000 before they go on sale. That is not realistic. They might make 500 a week, maybe. They might have 2 or 3 weeks made up when they go on sale. Depending on demand, they adjust production. This is more realistic.
The number itself wasn’t meant to be realistic. The concept of making something nobody will buy and then making more of them was the point. The number was unimportant, it was a representation of the logic behind suggesting people not rush to buy the first run and wait on a second.
I understand completely, but a certain number of people might take your number realistically. I see this happen all the time. I suppose it’s because we have people from all over the world reading this thread and most have no idea how big or small these flashlight companies are and how production, marketing, sales or shipping works. This is why I want to make sure everyone knows your example was not realistic, it was an extreme concept to make a point.
An exacto knife worked. Pingpong balls have the same flaw as most other diffusors: more light is directed upwards than sideways (with flashlight facing up).
[Pic] is a pp ball on a E2L triple.
Thanks for helping to replace speculation with data. That’s almost always a good thing.
I understand completely, but a certain number of people might take your number realistically. I see this happen all the time. I suppose it’s because we have people from all over the world reading this thread and most have no idea how big or small these flashlight companies are and how production, marketing, sales or shipping works. This is why I want to make sure everyone knows your example was not realistic, it was an extreme concept to make a point.
True enough, I see your point. I think it’s great that the folks on here get to give a new product a good shake down and find flaws before it is released on the world. This is one of the few places that the vast majority of folks will buy a light, having a reasonable suspicion that it won’t be perfect, and are willing to help make it better. You don’t get that in most aspects of life. It is quite unique I would think.
I think it’s great that the folks on here get to give a new product a good shake down and find flaws before it is released on the world.
Yes… but I wouldn’t have asked maukka for help if I thought it was a prototype instead of a production sample. Maukka is already pretty busy without me sending him unfinished items to test.
I’m curious, if they may use 2 different optics for the LH351D version and the XPL-Hi version?
Eg. the Mateminco X6S with triple Nichia 219C uses a frosty (floody) optic by default, but the X6S with triple XPL-Hi uses a throwy (clear) optic by default.
So the XPL-Hi has increased throw, while the 219C becomes even more floody with the chosen optic.
Will this be the case for the FW3A (use a floody optic for LH351D, to make it a floody light), and use a clear optic for the XPL-Hi (for throwy beam)?
I’m curious, if they may use 2 different optics for the LH351D version and the XPL-Hi version?
Eg. the Mateminco X6S with triple Nichia 219C uses a frosty (floody) optic by default, but the X6S with triple XPL-Hi uses a throwy (clear) optic by default.
So the XPL-Hi has increased throw, while the 219C becomes even more floody with the chosen optic.
Will this be the case for the FW3A (use a floody optic for LH351D, to make it a floody light), and use a clear optic for the XPL-Hi (for throwy beam)?
No, they will all use the same optic.
We are using the xpl-hi simply because the domed version does not fit under the optic. The dome is too big. It has nothing to do with being floody or throwy. The frosted 10511 is the best comprise between throw and good looks.
ToyKeeper, I would like to donate a small gift to show my appreciation. Where do I send it? Thanks.
I haven’t set up anything yet. I’ve been a bit busy testing the light today…
… which brings up a thing people should be aware of for these samples. They seem to have shipped with 10508 or 10509 optics, which are both significantly more floody than the 10511 optic it is intended to have. I heard back from Neal today about this, and Lumintop hasn’t received its order of 10511 optics yet so they used some others they had in stock.
Klayking wrote:
1) If we were to compare the FW3A to a similarly sized flashlight known for efficiency, such as the Zebralight SC64, would the FW3A be roughly as efficient?
2) In ToyKeeper’s Emisar D4 review, she listed all of the ramping steps. These seem to be the same on the Emisar D4S and I was able to use them to configure my D4S’ stepped levels very specifically. Will these steps also be the same on the FW3A, as it is running Anduril? I’d like to be able to set my ramp ceiling right at the highest regulated mode for efficiency, and it is nice to know where that is exactly.
1. No. Zebralights use buck/boost drivers, which are more efficient than linear drivers. The FW3A uses a linear driver.
2. The ramp is not the same as the D4. The full details are in the cfg-fw3a.h file, but here’s a summary:
ToyKeeper, I would like to donate a small gift to show my appreciation. Where do I send it? Thanks.
I haven’t set up anything yet. I’ve been a bit busy testing the light today…
… which brings up a thing people should be aware of for these samples. They seem to have shipped with 10508 or 10509 optics, which are both significantly more floody than the 10511 optic it is intended to have. I heard back from Neal today about this, and Lumintop hasn’t received its order of 10511 optics yet so they used some others they had in stock.
Klayking wrote:
1) If we were to compare the FW3A to a similarly sized flashlight known for efficiency, such as the Zebralight SC64, would the FW3A be roughly as efficient?
2) In ToyKeeper’s Emisar D4 review, she listed all of the ramping steps. These seem to be the same on the Emisar D4S and I was able to use them to configure my D4S’ stepped levels very specifically. Will these steps also be the same on the FW3A, as it is running Anduril? I’d like to be able to set my ramp ceiling right at the highest regulated mode for efficiency, and it is nice to know where that is exactly.
1. No. Zebralights use buck/boost drivers, which are more efficient than linear drivers. The FW3A uses a linear driver.
2. The ramp is not the same as the D4. The full details are in the cfg-fw3a.h file, but here’s a summary:
1 to 65: 1×7135
66 to 130: 8×7135
131 to 149: 8×7135 + FET
150: FET only
Would it make sense to add some 7*7135 stepps?
In theory I suppose you could have a step with the first channel off, the second channel 100%, and the FET off, but im sure that would be a significant amount more programming to add into the firmware to make that work on both the ramp and the steps.
An exacto knife worked. Pingpong balls have the same flaw as most other diffusors: more light is directed upwards than sideways (with flashlight facing up).
Pic is a pp ball on a E2L triple.
link to djozz tests
There’s other ways to make holes in thin plastic that don’t involve drills…
Get a Cu pipe slightly smaller than the head diameter of the light, heat it up, let it melt a hole.
Clearly won’t work though, in America ping-pong balls are only used for one thing: adolescents throw them at plastic cups, arranged like the pins in bowling and filled with an inch of beer in the bottom. They repeat this nightly for 4 to 8 years till they’ve spent $100k and “earned” an almost useless piece of paper with the name of the “school” at which they played the above game most often.
Any other use of said “ping-pong balls” is strictly forbidden here in America.
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
Not an optimum solution then. But thanks for the exacto knife tip.
Wouldn’t celluloid ping pong balls burst into flames when fitted on a hot rod flashlight?
That reminds me of the quote:“college is just a bar with a high cover charge”.
Here’s a CRX solution for a diffuser (of that specific light,but that can serve as inspiration)
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1416482#comment-1416482
[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
GIVEAWAY: 1
Ping pong ball.. I was wondering how, I thought of trying a belt sander…it’d cut a plane through the ball..just stop when the diameter is right….
I’d try but I dont have a ping pong ball
anyone in NE ILLinois into get togethers?
Drop one of these on instead of the diffuser. Would be kind of interesting to see.
https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32853382601.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesit...
Its not the Ping pong balls fault. The flaw is in the flashlight.
Will the code be the same for the LH351D and XP-L versions? I put in for an XP-L but now I’m thinking about getting the LH351D version. I guess the BLF answer would be to get both
Thanks
Well that is sorta flawed logic. If nobody buys the first run except for a few people, then there won’t be a second run. I can’t think of a single company that would produce say, 10000 of a product, look back and say, “well nobody bought the first run, lets make 10000 more”. Even if most people would wait it out before buying one, you would still get a first run product. They aren’t going to throw the first run away and run a second batch.
"Everywhere I go, there I am"
I plan to get the first run that is offered if I can.
I was burned “literally” when i got a first run of the D4, no thermal regulation or mode memory ;(
It is not important at this time. Just say how many lights you want.
KSGER STM32 2.1S Soldering Station Videos
Convoy L6 thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. - Supfire L5-S thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. Mini L6! - Thorfire S70S MTN FET driver, custom lighted side switch. - 10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, GT Micro, Astrolux S43(S) and ROT66
Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube and Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - List of Actively Cooled Lights - Headlight List with prices, specs and features - Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results - Lumintop GT Micro Test Results - FW3A 3D Test Results
I hope nobody really thinks they would make 10,000 before they go on sale. That is not realistic. They might make 500 a week, maybe. They might have 2 or 3 weeks made up when they go on sale. Depending on demand, they adjust production. This is more realistic.
KSGER STM32 2.1S Soldering Station Videos
Convoy L6 thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. - Supfire L5-S thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. Mini L6! - Thorfire S70S MTN FET driver, custom lighted side switch. - 10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, GT Micro, Astrolux S43(S) and ROT66
Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube and Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - List of Actively Cooled Lights - Headlight List with prices, specs and features - Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results - Lumintop GT Micro Test Results - FW3A 3D Test Results
The number itself wasn’t meant to be realistic. The concept of making something nobody will buy and then making more of them was the point. The number was unimportant, it was a representation of the logic behind suggesting people not rush to buy the first run and wait on a second.
"Everywhere I go, there I am"
In for another one, for a total of 2
Actually most of the atoms in a flower come from the air
I understand completely, but a certain number of people might take your number realistically. I see this happen all the time. I suppose it’s because we have people from all over the world reading this thread and most have no idea how big or small these flashlight companies are and how production, marketing, sales or shipping works. This is why I want to make sure everyone knows your example was not realistic, it was an extreme concept to make a point.
KSGER STM32 2.1S Soldering Station Videos
Convoy L6 thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. - Supfire L5-S thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. Mini L6! - Thorfire S70S MTN FET driver, custom lighted side switch. - 10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, GT Micro, Astrolux S43(S) and ROT66
Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube and Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - List of Actively Cooled Lights - Headlight List with prices, specs and features - Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results - Lumintop GT Micro Test Results - FW3A 3D Test Results
Thanks for helping to replace speculation with data. That’s almost always a good thing.
True enough, I see your point. I think it’s great that the folks on here get to give a new product a good shake down and find flaws before it is released on the world. This is one of the few places that the vast majority of folks will buy a light, having a reasonable suspicion that it won’t be perfect, and are willing to help make it better. You don’t get that in most aspects of life. It is quite unique I would think.
"Everywhere I go, there I am"
I’m interested in getting two. Please add me to the interest list.
Yes… but I wouldn’t have asked maukka for help if I thought it was a prototype instead of a production sample. Maukka is already pretty busy without me sending him unfinished items to test.
Meanwhile, back in China with Neal celebrating his Chinese New Year tonight, he brought with him a sample of the FW3A, and sent me some photos:
looks great, i guess the lightning makes it look brighter then it actually is ?
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
I’m curious, if they may use 2 different optics for the LH351D version and the XPL-Hi version?
Eg. the Mateminco X6S with triple Nichia 219C uses a frosty (floody) optic by default, but the X6S with triple XPL-Hi uses a throwy (clear) optic by default.
So the XPL-Hi has increased throw, while the 219C becomes even more floody with the chosen optic.
Will this be the case for the FW3A (use a floody optic for LH351D, to make it a floody light), and use a clear optic for the XPL-Hi (for throwy beam)?
No, they will all use the same optic.
We are using the xpl-hi simply because the domed version does not fit under the optic. The dome is too big. It has nothing to do with being floody or throwy. The frosted 10511 is the best comprise between throw and good looks.
KSGER STM32 2.1S Soldering Station Videos
Convoy L6 thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. - Supfire L5-S thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. Mini L6! - Thorfire S70S MTN FET driver, custom lighted side switch. - 10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, GT Micro, Astrolux S43(S) and ROT66
Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube and Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - List of Actively Cooled Lights - Headlight List with prices, specs and features - Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results - Lumintop GT Micro Test Results - FW3A 3D Test Results
Would it make sense to add some 7*7135 stepps?
In theory I suppose you could have a step with the first channel off, the second channel 100%, and the FET off, but im sure that would be a significant amount more programming to add into the firmware to make that work on both the ramp and the steps.
Count me in for one!
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