I’m curious, if they may use 2 different optics for the LH351D version and the XPL-Hi version?
Eg. the Mateminco X6S with triple Nichia 219C uses a frosty (floody) optic by default, but the X6S with triple XPL-Hi uses a throwy (clear) optic by default.
So the XPL-Hi has increased throw, while the 219C becomes even more floody with the chosen optic.
Will this be the case for the FW3A (use a floody optic for LH351D, to make it a floody light), and use a clear optic for the XPL-Hi (for throwy beam)?
No, they will all use the same optic.
We are using the xpl-hi simply because the domed version does not fit under the optic. The dome is too big. It has nothing to do with being floody or throwy. The frosted 10511 is the best comprise between throw and good looks.
The XP-L HI was chosen because it makes a particularly nice beam, but the extra throw was a nice bonus too. Domed Cree emitters like XP-L HD and XP-G3 don’t make such good-looking beams. XP-G3 could have been an okay option with a frosted wide or frosted medium optic, because the optic blends out the Cree rainbow effect, but it looks pretty bad in a throwy or clear optic. And XP-L HD physically doesn’t quite fit, so it wasn’t even an option.
LH351D was chosen because it also makes a particularly nice beam, but it’s really floody. It could work reasonably well with a different optic, like 10507 to make it less floody, but I expect that will likely just invite production inconsistencies. Communication on these things is … unreliable. So it’s generally a good idea to keep things simple whenever possible.
There’s a good chance of trying to add SST-20 at some point too, since it has become popular in the time since the emitter poll was finished.
Not really. Even if it worked perfectly, the benefit would be very small. And it’s unlikely it would work perfectly. It could easily create a zig-zag in the ramp instead of going up smoothly.
Using a 1+1+2+4 chip design can work better, and it allows hitting any regulated level while only doing PWM on the first channel. However, this also has relatively minimal gains over a 7+1 design, and it requires more pins, and it tends to make the ramp a little more bumpy because there are more channel transitions.
In any case, it won’t get anywhere near the efficiency of a ZebraLight, because ZL converts extra voltage to usable power and 7135 chips do not.
SST-20 leds look really good in the Carclo 10507, some fraying at the edge of the hotspot closeby that virtually disappears at over 2 meter. Only if you are looking for it you see that the very edge of the hotspot is a bit cooler than the rest of the hotspot. I think it suits the FW3A better than the very floody LH351D, the 4000K and 3000K versions have better tint and CRI and a bit more spot brightness, but with a little less output.
Because for some reason the various SST-20 leds are well available in China, I’m sure that Lumintop will make an SST-20 version at some point.
it will be a while probably, after chinese holidays, most likely Neal will send them out, or atleast help out with it like he has done before in group buys.
Cool just been back into this thread after a few months away and looking at the updates has me well um Excited looks really good and I just want to make sure I don’t “miss the boat”
SST-20 leds look really good in the Carclo 10507, some fraying at the edge of the hotspot closeby that virtually disappears at over 2 meter. Only if you are looking for it you see that the very edge of the hotspot is a bit cooler than the rest of the hotspot. I think it suits the FW3A better than the very floody LH351D, the 4000K and 3000K versions have better tint and CRI and a bit more spot brightness, but with a little less output.
Because for some reason the various SST-20 leds are well available in China, I’m sure that Lumintop will make an SST-20 version at some point.
When I put some in a E2L with 10507 the starburst shaped hotspot is very noticable to me. I personally am not too bothered by it but I dont think I would say virtually disappears.
looks great, i guess the lightning makes it look brighter then it actually is ?
Nope, I already asked about the color some pages back, it’s not like it’s graphite gray or something (sadly ;D) – see TK’s reply:
ToyKeeper wrote:
Streamtronics wrote:
In the OP it says “current status: anodization is dark gray”… now, I can’t speak for others of course, but to me dark gray would be something like graphite (or maybe a bit lighter than that) – in the pics it looks like it’s closer to silver, kinda like a middle gray actually lol.
We asked for dark grey, though what I received is more of what I’d call a medium grey. I think it still looks good though, even though it’s a bit lighter than expected.
Thanks KB, ad there's more. Hank just emailed me with the part numbers of the low CRI versions:
SST-20-WCS-A120-L3652(L3-VL-BA) 6500K
SST-20-WDS-A120-L2501(L3-VK-DA) 5000K
I asked him to post on the website, we'll see. I got in the 5000K's for their better throw and output, so that DA tint I'm glad to see.
I would assume their the same SST-20's he's using in the Emisars. I email him at contact@intl-outdoor.com, and seems to get back pretty quick, might be an hour or day or two.
Thanks KB, ad there’s more. Hank just emailed me with the part numbers of the low CRI versions:
SST-20-WCS-A120-L3652 6500K
SST-20-WDS-A120-L2501 5000K
I asked him to post on the website, we’ll see. I got in the 5000K’s for their better throw and output, so that DA tint I’m glad to see.
I would assume their the same SST-20’s he’s using in the Emisars. I email him at contact@intl-outdoor.com, and seems to get back pretty quick, might be an hour or day or two.
Thanks for the info KB & TomE.
@ TomE…. Excuse my ignorance, but what is the DA tint you mentioned?
What does the ‘DA’ signify??
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
@TomE, good god you made me laugh. Magic Line thing. That’s a first
Well, the DA tint bin is precisely what it sounds like: the color tint bin, or how the beam of the light tends to go to a certain color, being red or green, below or above the curve.
The magical line you see is, simply put, the black body line. A perfect 100CRI light source will be on this line, every time. Otherwise, it might actually drift to slight green, or slight red.
Slight red is preferred by most people since it looks more saturated.
@teacher, did not even recognize you initially. Thought someone else jumped in.
And yes, that means most of the LEDs will be on the slightly red side. At 5000k, you won’t be noticing it much, so it’ll pretty much be a pure white starting at 200-300 lumens rated.
@teacher, did not even recognize you initially. Thought someone else jumped in.
And yes, that means most of the LEDs will be on the slightly red side. At 5000k, you won’t be noticing it much, so it’ll pretty much be a pure white starting at 200-300 lumens rated.
Yeah…. I changed to a more neutral avatar when the real meaning of the other one was brought gently, but very effectively; to my attention.
But, moving right along…. Thank you for the info & verification.
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
The XP-L HI was chosen because it makes a particularly nice beam, but the extra throw was a nice bonus too. Domed Cree emitters like XP-L HD and XP-G3 don’t make such good-looking beams. XP-G3 could have been an okay option with a frosted wide or frosted medium optic, because the optic blends out the Cree rainbow effect, but it looks pretty bad in a throwy or clear optic. And XP-L HD physically doesn’t quite fit, so it wasn’t even an option.
LH351D was chosen because it also makes a particularly nice beam, but it’s really floody. It could work reasonably well with a different optic, like 10507 to make it less floody, but I expect that will likely just invite production inconsistencies. Communication on these things is … unreliable. So it’s generally a good idea to keep things simple whenever possible.
There’s a good chance of trying to add SST-20 at some point too, since it has become popular in the time since the emitter poll was finished.
Who where and when do I send MY $$$ to
must be getting close..
Not really. Even if it worked perfectly, the benefit would be very small. And it’s unlikely it would work perfectly. It could easily create a zig-zag in the ramp instead of going up smoothly.
Using a 1+1+2+4 chip design can work better, and it allows hitting any regulated level while only doing PWM on the first channel. However, this also has relatively minimal gains over a 7+1 design, and it requires more pins, and it tends to make the ramp a little more bumpy because there are more channel transitions.
In any case, it won’t get anywhere near the efficiency of a ZebraLight, because ZL converts extra voltage to usable power and 7135 chips do not.
Thank you for passing along news from outside of BLF. It’s helpful to hear about what gets posted elsewhere.
SST-20 leds look really good in the Carclo 10507, some fraying at the edge of the hotspot closeby that virtually disappears at over 2 meter. Only if you are looking for it you see that the very edge of the hotspot is a bit cooler than the rest of the hotspot. I think it suits the FW3A better than the very floody LH351D, the 4000K and 3000K versions have better tint and CRI and a bit more spot brightness, but with a little less output.
Because for some reason the various SST-20 leds are well available in China, I’m sure that Lumintop will make an SST-20 version at some point.
link to djozz tests
it will be a while probably, after chinese holidays, most likely Neal will send them out, or atleast help out with it like he has done before in group buys.
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
Cool just been back into this thread after a few months away and looking at the updates has me well um Excited looks really good and I just want to make sure I don’t “miss the boat”
In for one! Thank you!
Excited to swap Luxeon Vs into one...
EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100
I am 192…please put me down for 1 more (2 total).
When I put some in a E2L with 10507 the starburst shaped hotspot is very noticable to me. I personally am not too bothered by it but I dont think I would say virtually disappears.
Sign me up for 1 please.
Please put me down for two more.
Nope, I already asked about the color some pages back, it’s not like it’s graphite gray or something (sadly ;D) – see TK’s reply:
Just got an Emisar D4 with 4000K 95 CRI SST20 installed.
The beam looks beautiful. I think even superior to my previous favorite XPL HI 4000K.
Might have to get some of these to swap into an FW3A.
Hank has a great price on the SST20's - $1.58 each, qty 10.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
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https://intl-outdoor.com/luminus-sst20-bare-led-p-936.html
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
hi ,
Checking in, it appears there is a decision to be made.
my numbers are 739, 740, 889, 890. could you make it two of each emitter? thank you. Andy
Thanks KB, ad there's more. Hank just emailed me with the part numbers of the low CRI versions:
SST-20-WCS-A120-L3652(L3-VL-BA) 6500K
SST-20-WDS-A120-L2501(L3-VK-DA) 5000K
I asked him to post on the website, we'll see. I got in the 5000K's for their better throw and output, so that DA tint I'm glad to see.
I would assume their the same SST-20's he's using in the Emisars. I email him at contact@intl-outdoor.com, and seems to get back pretty quick, might be an hour or day or two.
Is he sure that the 5000k emitter is a L3 flux binned part?
The datasheet says that the L2501 chromacity bin is a L2 flux binned part with a chance of getting the DA tint bin, which seems good.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
@ TomE…. Excuse my ignorance, but what is the DA tint you mentioned?
What does the ‘DA’ signify??
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
I dunno - maybe ask him. He first told me they were L3, then I asked for the other tint info and that's when he gave me the part #'s.
Doesn't KD sell them here: http://kaidomain.com/Flashlight-DIY-and-Tools/LED-Emitters-or-LED-Star-on-PCB/Luminus-Leds/Luminus-SST-20-L3-DA-Neutral-White-5000K-LED-Emitter
They got a pic of the label.
Blue knows more bout this than I do, but from the SST-20 datasheet, the DA and DD tints are at or below the magical line thing...
https://download.luminus.com/datasheets/Luminus_SST-20-WxS_Datasheet.pdf
@TomE, good god you made me laugh. Magic Line thing. That’s a first
Well, the DA tint bin is precisely what it sounds like: the color tint bin, or how the beam of the light tends to go to a certain color, being red or green, below or above the curve.
The magical line you see is, simply put, the black body line. A perfect 100CRI light source will be on this line, every time. Otherwise, it might actually drift to slight green, or slight red.
Slight red is preferred by most people since it looks more saturated.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
OK, thank you Tom.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Thanks Blue!! So the ‘DA’ is on the slight red side. Right??
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
@teacher, did not even recognize you initially. Thought someone else jumped in.
And yes, that means most of the LEDs will be on the slightly red side. At 5000k, you won’t be noticing it much, so it’ll pretty much be a pure white starting at 200-300 lumens rated.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
But, moving right along…. Thank you for the info & verification.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
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