XHP70.2 dedoming pictures and VIDEO added

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Inkidu
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Thanks for the quick reply and recommendation. I have some single edge Schick injector blades that are thicker and stiffer that I’ll try.

ZozzV6
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Slicing is not a big deal but the edge cleaning from phosphor is a harder job. So I made a video to see better how I do the second part. Maybe tomorrow I have time to edit and upload it.

Today I achieved a very clean cut with a new razor:

You can see the dies good on this one:

This is the thickness I start dicing:

Here you can see the end result and the silicone left on the dies and on dies side. And the rough border between dies and silicone. That is why you need to leave a little silicone.

4,9V
1mA

Inkidu
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Thanks for all info. Great pictures. Another interest of mine that has practical applications is wet shaving. And Feather Hi-Stainless Double Edge Razor Blades are widely regarded as the sharpest (see picture from my photo stacking days). Not sure that helps if that is the easy part, but I wonder if some chisel scalpel blades might be useful. SM61 or SM62 Swann Morton Expensive and hard to get though. Looking forward to updates.

DB Custom
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I was looking for a chisel grind when I bought my scalpel and blades, purely for slicing domes. Did’nt find those and have had to learn to hold the bevel parallel to the die face. I also apply silicone to the blade so it drags less, and still I do a slice rather than push cut.

Agro
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Silicone grease? Doesn’t some of it stay on a dome?

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DB Custom wrote:
I was looking for a chisel grind when I bought my scalpel and blades, purely for slicing domes. Did’nt find those and have had to learn to hold the bevel parallel to the die face. I also apply silicone to the blade so it drags less, and still I do a slice rather than push cut.

I learned the hard way (read: mucked up my BLF GT70 XHP70.2) that a push cut can cause the dome to rip off at the end of the cut. Sad
Also, would it be better to do multiple cuts, each time going lower in an attempt for the piece of dome being cut off to have more flexibility and glide up against the top bevel and not cause a rip or tear infront of the blade?
Then last question: Would the left-over dome on top of the dies burn if they are too thin? Or would they only burn if there is residue on them? In other words, would a perfectly smooth and clean cut 0,001” above the dies start burning, or would it function correctly?

Current Collection: BTU: Shocker (3 x SST-40 @ 8A)Lumintop: BLF GT70 (CW Sliced), BLF GTmini; Solarforce: 2 x L2P (XM-L2 U3 2C @ 4A), MPP-1 (XP-L HI @ 6A), MPP-3 (3 x XM-L2 U2 2C @ 12A), M6 (Nichia 319A @ 6A), M8 (Cree XHP-50.2 @ 9A), 9x (9 x XM-L2 U2 1A @ 2A)

Coming Soon: Lumintop: BLF GT4; Sofirn: BLF-LT1;

Inkidu
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DB Custom wrote:
I was looking for a chisel grind when I bought my scalpel and blades, purely for slicing domes. Did’nt find those and have had to learn to hold the bevel parallel to the die face. I also apply silicone to the blade so it drags less, and still I do a slice rather than push cut.

I contacted a seller in the UK, about the dimensions, of the SM 61 and SM 62. They come in a single bevel design SM 61 SB as well, which would be more useful. I’m assuming they mean like a wood chisel and not facets to the cutting surface. Might be to thin for the initial cut but possibly be used, with a thinner spacer, to chisel around the diced die?? I got get one of these and take the plunge. I hope you could put a video together. I’m apprehensive about making $20 mistakes.

ZozzV6
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Video is almost done

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And the video is done. It is 8 times faster than real life and the same things on opposite sides only appear once to not be soo long and boring. In reality it takes 20-30 minutes. I add it also to the OP.
Enjoy it:

MRsDNF
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Thanks Zozz. A video is worth a thousand pictures. I have one to do so hope I dont stuff it up.

 

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Very nice work, Zozz. Beer

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Thank you all!

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More meticulous than actually hard, just go at it slow and easy. Being especially careful at the dice portion to not clip the edge of the die… this will result in a visible blue emission if phosphor is chipped off the die surface. Wink

Marc E
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Love the video!

ZozzV6
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The first victim.

This was in my MF02 fet driven flashlight. Stayed on turbo for 5 minutes and half of it died. I was stupid maybe or the led was weaker. I don’t know. I used this light a few times to run 1-2 minutes turbo but that was too much. that two die was a bit dimmer before the died so maybe that was just the last nail in the coffin.

RelakS
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What if I use a knife instead of a blade?
My idea is to buy a cheap knife with a relatively stiff blade, and sharpen it to single bevel style:

I don’t know though if this style of blade puts an unnecessary upward force to the dome’s material, or cuts it nicely.

KevinZA1988
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I installed a 4000K 80 CRI XHP7.02 in my L6 and hated the puke carona. Sliced the dome and remove the silicone around the dies, but not all the extra phosphor https://photos.app.goo.gl/YBWnyJmUG5tyBGvi9 . But it doesn’t glow so it doesn’t bother me. The results are epic though. It seems to be around 3300K when compared to a 3000K and 4000K XM-L2. Not as neatly done as ZozzV6, but I encourage everyone to try it. I did this to my 3V XHP50.2 6000K BLF A6 and it is also epic.

Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

Ryzbor
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KevinZA1988 wrote:
I installed a 4000K 80 CRI XHP7.02 (…) The results are epic though. It seems to be around 3300K when compared to a 3000K and 4000K XM-L2. Not as neatly done as ZozzV6, but I encourage everyone to try it. I did this to my 3V XHP50.2 6000K BLF A6 and it is also epic.

Did you use the XHP70.2 5A “80CRI” from Kaidomain?

virence.com rosy 3500K R9080 Wizard Pro

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Ryzbor wrote:
KevinZA1988 wrote:
I installed a 4000K 80 CRI XHP7.02 (…) The results are epic though. It seems to be around 3300K when compared to a 3000K and 4000K XM-L2. Not as neatly done as ZozzV6, but I encourage everyone to try it. I did this to my 3V XHP50.2 6000K BLF A6 and it is also epic.

Did you use the XHP70.2 5A “80CRI” from Kaidomain?

Yes… I was expecting a warm tint with green but surprisingly came out really well. I’m gonna do the same with my other XHP70.2 lights. Love the tint!

Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

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Interesting, I saw the XHP70.2 5A in a C8+ and liked the tint since it was slightly rosy, comparable to the D4 with XPL-HI 5D’s.

1) was the original led before shaving (slightly) rosy?

2) besides lowering the CCT, did the shaving affect the tint? Is it still slightly rosy after shaving?

virence.com rosy 3500K R9080 Wizard Pro

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Ryzbor wrote:
Interesting, I saw the XHP70.2 5A in a C8+ and liked the tint since it was slightly rosy, comparable to the D4 with XPL-HI 5D’s.

1) was the original led before shaving (slightly) rosy?

2) besides lowering the CCT, did the shaving affect the tint? Is it still slightly rosy after shaving?

Before shaving it, the hotspot was rosy but carona was green and yellow. Unbearable!

Now it’s a rosy golden colour. When I put the reflector on the spill was very slightly blue but that’s because of the AR lens. I tested it without the lens and the tint was very consistent. I will try and take a picture tonight next to a Luxeon V 4000K for comparison.

Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

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KevinZA1988 wrote:
Ryzbor wrote:
Interesting, I saw the XHP70.2 5A in a C8+ and liked the tint since it was slightly rosy, comparable to the D4 with XPL-HI 5D’s.

1) was the original led before shaving (slightly) rosy?

2) besides lowering the CCT, did the shaving affect the tint? Is it still slightly rosy after shaving?

Before shaving it, the hotspot was rosy but carona was green and yellow. Unbearable!

Now it’s a rosy golden colour. When I put the reflector on the spill was very slightly blue but that’s because of the AR lens. I tested it without the lens and the tint was very consistent. I will try and take a picture tonight next to a Luxeon V 4000K for comparison.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/bfSVsCZrY54JuH989

The 3 beamshots together are as follows…

Left: Convoy S3 – Luxeon V
Middle: Convoy L6 – Sliced XHP70.2 4000K 80CRI
Right: BLF A6 – Sliced 3V XHP50.2 6000K

Cree LED’s from Kaidomain. To my eyes, the sliced XHP50.2 has a slight green tint at lower current, like some Nichia 219 C’s. But at higher current it goes pure white.

Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

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Interesting! Cool Judging from the pictures the tint of the sliced XHP50.2 6000K gets close to the 4000K Luxeon V. Does the XHP50.2 look like 4000K or 5000K also in reality?

Always looking for: used or damaged flashlights for repair and MODDING

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RelakS wrote:
What if I use a knife instead of a blade?
My idea is to buy a cheap knife with a relatively stiff blade, and sharpen it to single bevel style:

There is a dedicated tool called a microtome to cut very slim slice of materials to be view under a microscope. They are also used in pogotonomy (the art of shaving).
A microtome has a chisel profil with a flat ground or an hollow ground. An hollow ground makes it a very good slicer, the blade being very thin behind the edge.

Probably low grade carbon steel but here an example : Straight Razor for Simple Hand Microtome = 18$
or
Rasoir de microtome = 8,90€

Traditionnal japanese razors (kamisori) also have a chisel ground but are much more expensive : ebay

All those blades are pretty simple to sharpen and hone with waterstones, plenty of videos on youtube

RelakS
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Tally-ho wrote:
There is a dedicated tool called a microtome to cut very slim slice of materials to be view under a microscope. The are also used in pogotonomy (the art of shaving).
A microtome has a chisel profil with a flat ground or an hollow ground. An hollow ground is very good slicer.

Probably low grade carbon steel but here an example : Straight Razor for Simple Hand Microtome = 18$
or
Rasoir de microtome = 8,90€

Traditionnal japanese razors (kamisori) also have a chisel ground but are much more expensive.

Today I started to sharpen a knife, which cost about a dollar (yeah, I collected some sharpening stones and “scary sharp” lapping sheets). Hopefully, I will have the desired blade, something similar than in your picture. The only problem, that I can’t create such beautiful blade shape, as some of the Japanese sharpeners on Youtube. Maybe, it will just take some more time.

That pogotonomy… this is, when someone cuts a piece of hair to 14 pieces? Maybe I will be able to do the same, although not lengthwise but breadthwise Facepalm Big Smile

KevinZA1988
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Skylight wrote:
Interesting! Cool Judging from the pictures the tint of the sliced XHP50.2 6000K gets close to the 4000K Luxeon V. Does the XHP50.2 look like 4000K or 5000K also in reality?

5000K, maybe a bit lower, very close to the 4800K in one of my special edition S1R Baton II’s. But I’m considering buying an MHVast TS70 and also slicing the dome.

I need one of those scalpels the guys are mentioning here… Damn!

Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

RelakS
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1mm aluminium plate for an XHP70 … interesting … at first I was afraid of using the 1.33mm thick washer on my XM-L nock-off looking LEDs, but 1.04 worked good as well.
Unfortunately, my cut does not look better than these Big Smile I will post some pictures also, if I find out how to make beamshot pictures with an anyway dead lamp Smile (some wires and batteries will do, I think)

Instead of flooding this thread with pictures, I have opened a new one Smile

vietnamreviews
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Thanks so much. Good job my friend

Kit Latura
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This is the result thanks to your work. So, thank you zozz

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Nice job! What flashlight?

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