My E07 heats up pretty quickly. Probably no thermal paste like Martins. I mean I don’t care if you’re an amateur building your first P60 pill, this is basic stuff. I have 4 ROT66 with no issues, 1 PL47 with broken AUX LEDs, and now this E07. I’m not even looking at his stuff any longer; I give him credit for customer service I will say that much but at some point you have to do your job better, not worse.
7 low voltage LED's, heavy teflon coated short LED wires, decent FET, decent springs, the LED+ wire goes directly thru the driver spring, combined with a decent 21700 cell -- this light pulls more amps than the way bigger Q8, so it will warm up fast even with the poor contact the MCPCB has.
I just got mine fully apart, except for removal of the switch. I used 600 GRIT paper and sanded smooth the MCPCB, then got it mirror smooth with 2000 GRIT, so sanding on a flat surface, I'm pretty confident it's flat now. I used an Exacto knife to trim the big wire hole edge - don't want sharp edges there to fray wire coverings. The switch wires are long enough to tilt the driver out, but not long enough to clip/re-program the MCU - sooo close though. Might fit with flexible silicone coated LED wires, not sure. The driver was mounted with the glue that's like rubberbands - flexible, stretchy. I poked it out with a solder pick tool through the wire hole - broke the bond fairly easy, no damage but I was careful, no hammering needed. I don't see any problem with the width of the MCPCB in mine.
Considering how super thick the MCPCB shelf is, the head is pretty light weight. It's nice to see a light built this way, specifically designed for low profile TIR optics but the style is more conventional with the elongated head so it can be packed with aluminum, all in one piece with the outer shell - I think that aspect is quite unique, and for us, really nice! They probably could have reduced the length by 5+ mm or so and still had a decent thick shelf. I think the Emisar's went overboard with priority given to as min length as possible. Their pill space is super tight and not much metal in the heads, while the E07 least has some limited space in there, plus lots of metal. It's all a tradeoff of course.
If I can make a suggestion….
I like military watches (doesn’t everybody?). Everybody and his dog makes a model but what very few do is to raise the bezel just enough to avoid contacting the glass. Just a few millimeters.
If I was designing it, I would explore how much I could raise the body or sink the switch to make it less liable to self turn on if it hit something. Not much, just a few millimeters. Maybe 5. Of course there is no guarantee that it will never happen, it just reduces the probability by a a substantial margin. Plus the rubber on the switch is probably the second most vulnerable thing.
Just a thought……
There's been lots of discussions on the switch height and protection on just about every light with a side switch here. Not sure, but thought ThorFire did set it a bit lower, but of course, not low enough. There were issues like this we just couldn't get them to budge on for various reasons, so we eventually settle, like we did with the screws securing down the driver - really wanted a retaining ring. Also wanted a better FET, didn't get that either. It's all about what they can do or can't, pricing, priorities, adding further delays, etc.
I’m not sure why they would resist. It’s a matter of machining and that is about the easiest thing to change. Literally ZERO cost. They have to mill a hole, they can very easily mill a countersink. Just programming.
Perhaps I can help on the next build with machining and manufacturing knowledge.
I can't recall, others might know better. Not sure if we gave it priority, and might have been a slippage issue - when you are running say 6 months behind, and they tell you it would delay another month of this or that, you tend to back off. Of course it doesn't really happen till another 10 months, but of course we didn't know that at the time -- hindsight thing...
If it was a specific resistance to countersinking it then it had to be the switch itself. Either they had stock, wanted to maintain commonality to their other products or simple unavailability. As is, the switch may not be thin enough or the threading wouldn’t close to hold the switch if there was 5mm less of material thickness.
On the other hand, they could accommodate that if they wouldn’t remove off as much from the top, where the fins are.
I’m looking at the Thorfire Q8 and they could of left the ridge/fins on there and countersunk the switch. As it is now, it’s about 3 mm proud of the machined plane. It looks good, but I always chose function over sexy. On the other hand, I’m not selling flashlights.
Anywho….next time.
Black paint removed from h2r nova clip to use on E07. Much better! Ordered a silver Olight S1R/S2R 2 way clip but it’s much shorter, so I did some pocket clip swapping around today. Zebralight clip went to the h2r, new Olight clip went on my old zebra h600w, and the h2r clip was sanded and put on the E07. Still have some polishing and clear coating but it looks good and much better than original clip 
The clear ano eo7 looks very nice!
I received my clear E07 today and one of the main LED’s wasn’t working. I already planned on taking it apart for a Luxeon V2 swap so I wasn’t concerned and got to work.
This is what I found:
D7 was the one not working. Absolutely zero solder on the cathode pad.
And the bottom of D7 is dry as well
But I’m happy to report the L1V2 emitter swap went perfect and it’s all buttoned back up!
Light box readings (raw numbers):
Stock SST20 4000K = 35100
Luxeon V2 5000K = 47200
A 34% gain (but that’s to be expected with it only having been running 6 of the sst20’s)
Guess this one missed QC huh…
And don’t forget the SST-20 4000k and below only come in 95CRI, so it is a bit unfair.
How did it not reflow though? Don’t they use skillets to specifically prevent this?
I’m guessing it was a paste applicator error. I can see maybe the center pad not flowing with how much mass this MCPCB has but the cathode and anode pads flow easily even on this big honking thing. I just can’t imagine it not flowing when the 20 other solder joints, including all 7 thermal pads were good unless it simply didn’t get paste.
Either way literally 1 second of QC should of stopped it from going out the door like that…
No issue with my, love it!
What made you choose the luxeon v2 over all the other swap options available? And what method did you use to reflow?
I like them, best 5000k tint I’ve found yet. I usually reflow with hot air from below but for this one I did it on my glass cooktop.
Love my E07 with sst20 4000k 95cri, a lot more output than my pl47 xpl hi v2 5000k
pl47
e07
The writing on the wrapper is quite different on the fake cell too
Took my E07 to work today.
That looks like it would be very difficult to clip onto anything in a bezel-down orientation for deep carry. The lip of the clip, where fabric should slide under, seems to be blocked by the smallest heat fin. Is it as difficult to use as it appears?
It works better than the clip it came with bezel down cause the original clip was so tight I had to struggle with it to slide over anything. The Olight clip, being longer, is easier to lift and slide into my pocket bezel down. But because the head of this light is bigger than the battery tube I MUCH prefer bezel up. It makes it much easier to pull out and return to pocket without fighting getting past the larger bezel. Plus I get to look down anytime and see those cool aux lights and see the light is not on. Others notice it also and inquire about it. Pretty cool:) I remember one time my Olight h2r turned on in my pocket and scorched my leg and burned a hole in my pants 
. That’s the day I started doing mechanical lockout on that guy 
This also solves that issue. Don’t get me wrong, I’m still dreaming of this design, but haven’t found or tried making it, yet……