How challenging is it to get the board in the right placement and get the wires soldered back to the main LED board and to the add-on board, and put the optic back in, all without shorting or twisting anything?
—
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
Hi lelex, have you published the schematic for your lighted TIR boards?
I’ve designed a TIR light board for a one-off project of mine using all passive components and a comparator but I’d be interested to see how a “smarter” solution was designed and laid out.
—
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
Hi lelex, have you published the schematic for your lighted TIR boards?
I’ve designed a TIR light board for a one-off project of mine using all passive components and a comparator but I’d be interested to see how a “smarter” solution was designed and laid out.
I am using pretty much same as you a comparator and LDO generating a reference voltage
I basically drew on some paper a scematic which is lost generally starting a new design on an already functioning board and keeping all nets as they were
on newest boards like E07 I have added a fet to get the comparator working down to 3V battery voltage so that MCU diode drop is not increasing the lowest voltage
even the parasitic drain of LDO and comparator is very low
Hi lelex, have you published the schematic for your lighted TIR boards?
I’ve designed a TIR light board for a one-off project of mine using all passive components and a comparator but I’d be interested to see how a “smarter” solution was designed and laid out.
I am build my own gfs16 pcbs and you can see how loneoceans made his led board. I do not see the schematic there yet but it looks like it use two nanopower comparator and one voltage reference to have 5.5uA super low standby current. I think because no LDO is used, the standby current is much lower.
The two bank of leds are switch on and off by small mosfet with battery indicator. I have order the pcb and parts to make my own led board also. With board file and part list, not too difficult to trace out layout to generate schematic.
Hi lelex, have you published the schematic for your lighted TIR boards?
I’ve designed a TIR light board for a one-off project of mine using all passive components and a comparator but I’d be interested to see how a “smarter” solution was designed and laid out.
I am build my own gfs16 pcbs and you can see how loneoceans made his led board. I do not see the schematic there yet but it looks like it use two nanopower comparator and one voltage reference to have 5.5uA super low standby current. I think because no LDO is used, the standby current is much lower.
The two bank of leds are switch on and off by small mosfet with battery indicator. I have order the pcb and parts to make my own led board also. With board file and part list, not too difficult to trace out layout to generate schematic.
he uses a Maxim with integrated reference that has a parasitic drain 2-3 times more than my solution
I asked him if I can use his board as a starting point to do my own, but I ended up making some things differently including another comparator(mainly because its cheaper and lower standby drain)
Hi lelex, have you published the schematic for your lighted TIR boards?
I’ve designed a TIR light board for a one-off project of mine using all passive components and a comparator but I’d be interested to see how a “smarter” solution was designed and laid out.
I am build my own gfs16 pcbs and you can see how loneoceans made his led board. I do not see the schematic there yet but it looks like it use two nanopower comparator and one voltage reference to have 5.5uA super low standby current. I think because no LDO is used, the standby current is much lower.
The two bank of leds are switch on and off by small mosfet with battery indicator. I have order the pcb and parts to make my own led board also. With board file and part list, not too difficult to trace out layout to generate schematic.
he uses a Maxim with integrated reference that has a parasitic drain 2-3 times more than my solution
I asked him if I can use his board as a starting point to do my own, but I ended up making some things differently including another comparator(mainly because its cheaper and lower standby drain)
it look like that is the older version when I order part. The rev B use only one voltage reference and two comparator I see for 5.5uA standby current (from page)
on newest boards like E07 I have added a fet to get the comparator working down to 3V battery voltage so that MCU diode drop is not increasing the lowest voltage
even the parasitic drain of LDO and comparator is very low
How does that work? TIR board positive direct from LED+ and the ground from the FET drain? FET gate controlled by the MCU aux LED output?
—
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
I am trying to add some side light to my flashlight. You seem to have a lot of pretty color led. Can you please share us the part number for the led colors you are using?
green
blue
ice blue
pink
WW
red
CW
orange
yellow
emerald green
purple
I dont think it makes a difference that it’s a D4 but the tolerances for where the LED +/- are may not work for anything but a Noctigon 4XP. I guess YMMV. Maybe Lexel has tested others.
Edit: I see it works on L4P board. Looks less likely to work here:
I wasn’t going to go with an Emisar… have Fireflies E07 on my horizon. If there’s definitely not going to be one of these TIR boards available for the E07, then I may have to shift gears.
technically you dont need to screw down the aux board,
having it simply floating between optics and MCPCB, a few mm up are no problem to get the L4P board soldered,
you could also use some 3mm hole spacers to lift iut but got it screwed down
xevious wrote:
This is… seriously intriguing & inspiring.
I wasn’t going to go with an Emisar… have Fireflies E07 on my horizon. If there’s definitely not going to be one of these TIR boards available for the E07, then I may have to shift gears.
the E07 has already my board in the stock light, so there is no real need for me to order this board size
with LVP D4S, ROT66 and MF01 aux board from me available
D4 is simply stabilized with LDO, but can be build also without to support low mode
Really nice boards But tbh a lot of this goes over my head!
I disassembled my D4 recently to flash Anduril and found it very tricky to work with given the extremely limited space. I’m not sure I’ll have the skills or patience to take it apart again to add the aux cables. I really like the aux leds in my D4S though so I could be tempted.
The D1 TIR looks interesting as well. Do you have any more info on that?
Any plans to make one for the imminent release of the FW3A?
Lexel - I's like to order a couple, maybe more, of these boards. I need one for my ROT66 (early version no AUX LED's), a D4, another quad, possibly an MF01, and possibly when you get the D1 ready. How does this work? pm you?
Would this install in a D4 far surpass a newbies capacity? Super interested, but it might be a bit much to bite off.
It is not easy to install. The driver is hardly pressed in and there is verry less space for wires and soldering.
You will need a tiny wire for battery- on the aux-board. Battery+ is the same as LED+.
Would this install in a D4 far surpass a newbies capacity? Super interested, but it might be a bit much to bite off.
It is not easy to install. The driver is hardly pressed in and there is verry less space for wires and soldering.
You will need a tiny wire for battery- on the aux-board. Battery+ is the same as LED+.
Usually most people do a reflash to D4S Firmware and use LED pin on driver for +
How challenging is it to get the board in the right placement and get the wires soldered back to the main LED board and to the add-on board, and put the optic back in, all without shorting or twisting anything?
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
depends on the light
D4 is the driver often tight
D4S, ROT66 just swap
MF01 needs wires from driver
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale] TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Hi lelex, have you published the schematic for your lighted TIR boards?
I’ve designed a TIR light board for a one-off project of mine using all passive components and a comparator but I’d be interested to see how a “smarter” solution was designed and laid out.
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
I am using pretty much same as you a comparator and LDO generating a reference voltage
I basically drew on some paper a scematic which is lost generally starting a new design on an already functioning board and keeping all nets as they were
on newest boards like E07 I have added a fet to get the comparator working down to 3V battery voltage so that MCU diode drop is not increasing the lowest voltage
even the parasitic drain of LDO and comparator is very low
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale] TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
I am build my own gfs16 pcbs and you can see how loneoceans made his led board. I do not see the schematic there yet but it looks like it use two nanopower comparator and one voltage reference to have 5.5uA super low standby current. I think because no LDO is used, the standby current is much lower.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/59550
The two bank of leds are switch on and off by small mosfet with battery indicator. I have order the pcb and parts to make my own led board also. With board file and part list, not too difficult to trace out layout to generate schematic.
he uses a Maxim with integrated reference that has a parasitic drain 2-3 times more than my solution
I asked him if I can use his board as a starting point to do my own, but I ended up making some things differently including another comparator(mainly because its cheaper and lower standby drain)
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale] TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
it look like that is the older version when I order part. The rev B use only one voltage reference and two comparator I see for 5.5uA standby current (from page)
How does that work? TIR board positive direct from LED+ and the ground from the FET drain? FET gate controlled by the MCU aux LED output?
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
Hello Mr. Lexel,
I am trying to add some side light to my flashlight. You seem to have a lot of pretty color led. Can you please share us the part number for the led colors you are using?
green
blue
ice blue
pink
WW
red
CW
orange
yellow
emerald green
purple
Thank you Mr. Lexel!
EDIT – sorry for asking question, I found answer on aliexpress!
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10Valuesx100pcs-1000pcs-0603-Ultra-Bright-SMD-Red-Green-Blue-White-Yellow-Warm-White-Orange-Pink-Purple/32358219506.html
Thank you
I order from this Aliexpress shop
https://de.aliexpress.com/store/1758868?spm=a2g0×.10010108.0.0.456e161f...
but you can not except same efficiency or colors over different orders they seem to change
red and green latest batch were less efficient and Pink color changed less purple but more efficient
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale] TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Will this board with only red aux on full power produce enough light tu use it as a usable moon mode?
good tint: Nichia E21A 2000K-7500K except d240 bin, Nichia 219B sw40/sw45, 219C sw303, Cree XPL-HI A/D bins, XHP70.2 5A, Samsung shaved LH351D's, SST-20 FD2, FA3, HA3, .
Not with a reasonable standby current
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale] TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
I finally got my board installed in my D4. I like it!! Not easy to install, but not that much harder than flashing my D4 with Anduril.
PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.
Does the D4 board fit any 20mm quad mcpcb or does it somehow only fit the D4?
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
Yes!
I used LED4Power Quad DTP Board
I should fit all 20mm quad boards which are quad TIR compatible, as this ensures the same hole spacing
I dont think it makes a difference that it’s a D4 but the tolerances for where the LED +/- are may not work for anything but a Noctigon 4XP. I guess YMMV. Maybe Lexel has tested others.
Edit: I see it works on L4P board. Looks less likely to work here:
true. That I did not think of! Sorry for my misleading post.
Perfect, thanks guys!
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
This is… seriously intriguing & inspiring.
I wasn’t going to go with an Emisar… have Fireflies E07 on my horizon. If there’s definitely not going to be one of these TIR boards available for the E07, then I may have to shift gears.
technically you dont need to screw down the aux board,
having it simply floating between optics and MCPCB, a few mm up are no problem to get the L4P board soldered,
you could also use some 3mm hole spacers to lift iut but got it screwed down
the E07 has already my board in the stock light, so there is no real need for me to order this board size
with LVP D4S, ROT66 and MF01 aux board from me available
D4 is simply stabilized with LDO, but can be build also without to support low mode
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale] TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Really nice boards
But tbh a lot of this goes over my head!
I disassembled my D4 recently to flash Anduril and found it very tricky to work with given the extremely limited space. I’m not sure I’ll have the skills or patience to take it apart again to add the aux cables. I really like the aux leds in my D4S though so I could be tempted.
The D1 TIR looks interesting as well. Do you have any more info on that?
Any plans to make one for the imminent release of the FW3A?
D1 is not TIR its reflector with aux boards placed inside the gasket
I sanded that board to about 0.1mm thickness
the board with indirect gasket leds is not tested yet
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale] TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Send me one and i’ll destroy my D1 for science:
LED Light Pipe + Dremel + UV Glue = ???
its meant to indirect light the white gasket
direct light version looks like this
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale] TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
I know, but why let it go to waste? The D1 doesn’t get that hot anyways I can make some holes, lol
edit; I mean in some cases they help cooling too..
Lexel - I's like to order a couple, maybe more, of these boards. I need one for my ROT66 (early version no AUX LED's), a D4, another quad, possibly an MF01, and possibly when you get the D1 ready. How does this work? pm you?
He will pm you for order details. Payment is through paypal.
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Would this install in a D4 far surpass a newbies capacity? Super interested, but it might be a bit much to bite off.
It is not easy to install. The driver is hardly pressed in and there is verry less space for wires and soldering.
You will need a tiny wire for battery- on the aux-board. Battery+ is the same as LED+.
Usually most people do a reflash to D4S Firmware and use LED pin on driver for +
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale] TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
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