FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

Where do I order the FW3A flashlight

You can’t order it yet. You can say how many you want in this thread, and when they’re available, you’ll get a notification.

@ severide…… Jason provided the link to the post in ‘this’ thread by maukka.

Here is the link to maukka’s review thread…… TLF/BLF/Lumintop FW3A review (18650, 3x XP-L HI cool white)

I would like to buy 2 please

Thanks!

interested in one for sure, maybe 2 or 3 (friends)

I am interested in one or two

The link to his review is already there. That’s why I didn’t post both. No biggie, though.

Switching from an AR coated lens to a plain one can reduce the yellow and vice versa. It’s an easy way to shift the tint a little bit. All the AR coated lens I’ve seen were coated on both sides so flipping it does nothing. Maybe your S42 lens is only coated on one side?

:+1: … OK, your right, it is there.
Can’t have it in to many places though… makes it easy to find. :wink:

Just curious, to anyone getting just one of these which led will you be getting and why?

@JonnyUtah, I will be getting mine with the LH351D, for 3 reasons:

1. I like high CRI lights. They make every color pop.

2. I prefer 4000k-4500k for indoor use.

3. It’s cheaper than the XP-L HI, and since the LH351D 90CRI has about the same forward voltage as the SST-20, I’ll swap one LH351D for an SST-20 3000k, which will work fine and make the beam rosier.

I know this has been asked before, but can’t find the answer. When the light is in muggle mode, is there a memory function, or does it always ramp from its lowest setting?

Clicking to turn it on goes to the last-ramped level. Holding to turn it on starts at the bottom of the ramp.

Please update my quantity to two pieces, one of each emitter.

Thanks.

I’m interested for one. Thanks.

I can't really get two because... money, and I haven't chosen yet... I'm really confused about tints lately, so if anyone feels like helping me out with a recommendation please do so lol. If you don't care about the boring OT, please skip the next part :D

I have the D4 with 3000K SST-20s and I don't find it rosy at all. Slightly greenish actually at lower levels. Confused why someone would put them into a light to make it more rosy... must mean the LH351D is super green?
Sofirn C01 3200K is actually more reddish/magenta than those SST-20 and is closer to an incandescent bulb (because more reds/oranges).
The 5A BLF A6 I got wasn't even rosy, it was straight up pink/purple... Maybe I got something like a 5R tint, who knows... I think it's not right for them not to tell you if it's 5A1 or 5A2, etc... Ended up swapping in a 5D XP-L HD from fasttech, that one's much less pink, but compared to actual daylight (winter here so it's pretty warm for daylight since the sun is never high up) still quite a rosy warmish color (like a creamy salmon color). It looks more balanced on lower levels tough, just a creamy white.
I have a Nitecore MT06MD with a single 219B (5000K I assume) in it. It's a tiny bit warmer than daylight and pretty neutral tint wise. Leaning towards magenta. I really like it, it's not driven on super high current though... so idk how it'd look in a hotrod.
Recently got a 348, they sold it as "NVSW219BT-V1" but it's much greener than that Nitecore so I'm assuming 219C? It's really close to my winter daylight, a tad and greener. A bit warmer than pure summer high-noon daylight I'd say. A tad too green for me at night though actually. But not driven at full power with just a single AAA battery of course.
I also have a Fenix TK20R, it has an XP-L HI but unknown CCT/tint. It's colder than the 219B and greener, but not overwhelmingly. I probably wouldn't even call it a cool white, but it probably is closer to 6000K... idk, when hearing cool white I have to think of those ice blue christmas lights.
So where do LH351D and XP-L 3D fit into this? I guess I could stare at measured color charts but I don't think it'll help me understand where these two are positioned... After my experience with the A6 I'm now kinda scared of tints below the BBL... What do you recommend? Thanks!

1 more for me too for a total of 2. One of each emmitter. I haven’t experienced 3D xpl-hi yet so I want to try those too.

I would like a second one please.
Thanks all.
Chris

The SST-20’s are documented by Maukka to shift from moderately green at low output to neutral or moderately rosy at high output (at least, in the FB4 bin). The appeal of SST-20’s should not rosiness, as far as I know, but the combination of high CRI and decent throw. That said, I’m under the impression that the SST-20’s Fireflies got their hands on are a rosier bin.

The LH351D seems to mostly be available in a tint that tends slightly green, but it sounds like some batches can be a lot worse than others. LH351D will be pretty floody. The limited data I’ve seen suggest the tint shift across the beam and at differing currents is relatively small, which is good.

I don’t know what to say about your XP-L HI experience, as I don’t have any. Most people seem to like the 3A and 3D bins, and the reduced amount of tint-shift in the beam compared to the HD. “Purple” is normally how below BBL tint is described for cool white emitters, not 4000K. Maybe you received a different CCT than you ordered?

My personal plan, because red rendering is important to me and I’ve found myself ok with a slight amount of green in the beam as long as the tint shift to the spill is minimal, is to order the LH351D version, and also get an SST-20 triple board from Kaidomain, and compare both to see which I prefer.

I also plan to get some loose LH351D to experiment with slicing the domes to see if I like that. Djozz has found the LH351D looses about 20% output when slicing, but the tint tends to shift below the black body locus, and warms up by about 500K. If I like the results, I might try it on my FW3A.

In for 2!