Thanks for all info. Great pictures. Another interest of mine that has practical applications is wet shaving. And Feather Hi-Stainless Double Edge Razor Blades are widely regarded as the sharpest (see picture from my photo stacking days). Not sure that helps if that is the easy part, but I wonder if some chisel scalpel blades might be useful. SM61 or SM62 Swann Morton Expensive and hard to get though. Looking forward to updates.
I was looking for a chisel grind when I bought my scalpel and blades, purely for slicing domes. Did’nt find those and have had to learn to hold the bevel parallel to the die face. I also apply silicone to the blade so it drags less, and still I do a slice rather than push cut.
Silicone grease? Doesn’t some of it stay on a dome?
I learned the hard way (read: mucked up my BLF GT70 XHP70.2) that a push cut can cause the dome to rip off at the end of the cut. 
Also, would it be better to do multiple cuts, each time going lower in an attempt for the piece of dome being cut off to have more flexibility and glide up against the top bevel and not cause a rip or tear infront of the blade?
Then last question: Would the left-over dome on top of the dies burn if they are too thin? Or would they only burn if there is residue on them? In other words, would a perfectly smooth and clean cut 0,001” above the dies start burning, or would it function correctly?
I contacted a seller in the UK, about the dimensions, of the SM 61 and SM 62. They come in a single bevel design SM 61 SB as well, which would be more useful. I’m assuming they mean like a wood chisel and not facets to the cutting surface. Might be to thin for the initial cut but possibly be used, with a thinner spacer, to chisel around the diced die?? I got get one of these and take the plunge. I hope you could put a video together. I’m apprehensive about making $20 mistakes.
Video is almost done
And the video is done. It is 8 times faster than real life and the same things on opposite sides only appear once to not be soo long and boring. In reality it takes 20-30 minutes. I add it also to the OP.
Enjoy it:
Thanks Zozz. A video is worth a thousand pictures. I have one to do so hope I dont stuff it up.
Very nice work, Zozz. 
Thank you all!
More meticulous than actually hard, just go at it slow and easy. Being especially careful at the dice portion to not clip the edge of the die… this will result in a visible blue emission if phosphor is chipped off the die surface. 
Love the video!
The first victim.
This was in my MF02 fet driven flashlight. Stayed on turbo for 5 minutes and half of it died. I was stupid maybe or the led was weaker. I don’t know. I used this light a few times to run 1-2 minutes turbo but that was too much. that two die was a bit dimmer before the died so maybe that was just the last nail in the coffin.
What if I use a knife instead of a blade?
My idea is to buy a cheap knife with a relatively stiff blade, and sharpen it to single bevel style:
I don’t know though if this style of blade puts an unnecessary upward force to the dome’s material, or cuts it nicely.
I installed a 4000K 80 CRI XHP7.02 in my L6 and hated the puke carona. Sliced the dome and remove the silicone around the dies, but not all the extra phosphor https://photos.app.goo.gl/YBWnyJmUG5tyBGvi9 . But it doesn’t glow so it doesn’t bother me. The results are epic though. It seems to be around 3300K when compared to a 3000K and 4000K XM-L2. Not as neatly done as ZozzV6, but I encourage everyone to try it. I did this to my 3V XHP50.2 6000K BLF A6 and it is also epic.
Did you use the XHP70.2 5A “80CRI” from Kaidomain?
Yes… I was expecting a warm tint with green but surprisingly came out really well. I’m gonna do the same with my other XHP70.2 lights. Love the tint!
Interesting, I saw the XHP70.2 5A in a C8+ and liked the tint since it was slightly rosy, comparable to the D4 with XPL-HI 5D’s.
1) was the original led before shaving (slightly) rosy?
2) besides lowering the CCT, did the shaving affect the tint? Is it still slightly rosy after shaving?
Before shaving it, the hotspot was rosy but carona was green and yellow. Unbearable!
Now it’s a rosy golden colour. When I put the reflector on the spill was very slightly blue but that’s because of the AR lens. I tested it without the lens and the tint was very consistent. I will try and take a picture tonight next to a Luxeon V 4000K for comparison.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bfSVsCZrY54JuH989
The 3 beamshots together are as follows…
Left: Convoy S3 - Luxeon V
Middle: Convoy L6 - Sliced XHP70.2 4000K 80CRI
Right: BLF A6 - Sliced 3V XHP50.2 6000K
Cree LED’s from Kaidomain. To my eyes, the sliced XHP50.2 has a slight green tint at lower current, like some Nichia 219 C’s. But at higher current it goes pure white.