WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

Too bad the pill isn’t made from aluminum or copper.

- Clemence

Thanks for your reports on this so far :wink:
BTW, did you take some photos on the “stock” LED beam?
We’ll be looking for some more comments on this :+1:

The pill is good ole cheap brass. I just checked for LVP, I dont know exactly what it’s doing, I put a very old trustfire 16340 in it. It worked on high for a few seconds then went into a flashy mode. It’s like 10 really quick flashes pause a half second 10 really quick again and then again then a 2 second pause then it starts over again. It doesn’t stop until the light is turned to off or the head screwed off. The battery is at around 3.0v when I pull it out and test it.

I hooked it up to my power supply and it never experienced the flashy mode even down to .7v with the current set high so it could draw all it wanted.
I’ll try the current then, set the voltage to 4.2v, reduced the current slowly, at .44a the flashy mode showed up. At .45a normal operation.
This was all done on the highest setting on the control ring. So it has some kind of protection but most batteries would be dead by the time it could only supply 440ma.
On the power supply at 1v the input current was almost 2 amps. Uses the same PAM2803 316BCG combo the V11R does.

I noticed the sense resistor on the RRT-01 driver is .05 ohms and stock reported about 800 lumens. Which when I modded the V11R, that’s about what I got using the same sense resistor. I changed the V11R to a .033 ohm sense resistor by stacking a .100 ohm on top of the .05 ohm. Did the same mod to the RRT-01 and pretty much got the same results, 900 lumens.

No photos of the beam before the led swap. :person_facepalming: Now it’s very comparable to the V11R beam, the RRT hot spot seems a little brighter in a side by side comparison. Enough to notice it. I get more excited about modding a light than I do receiving it.

A persistent blinks is good enough. Based from your description it’s not an LVP. More like a LCP, or LPP. Strange. So it’s still an interesting modification base. So far what can be improved are:

- Redesigned aluminum/copper pill. I see a there’s room for bigger MCPCB

- TIR optic

- Better LED

- Smoother rotary movement or perhaps smaller notches for more precise stops

  • GITD components or blinking flashlight locator
    As for the output, it’s already more than enough in my opinion. 500lm in 90+ CRI is my goal, should be not that hard.

.

  • Clemence

I’m just gonna drop some pics here since this thread already has a lot good of info in it.

Taped up to remove the head in a vise and vise grips.

Comes a part fairly easy but mine couldn’t be done by hand, Blue loctite.

Pill and control ring. The wires are pretty small (maybe 28AWG).

Pill with MCPCB removed.

Driver top.

Where the driver goes in held with a screw and Retaining ring.

Original sense resistor .05 ohm.

Stacked .100 ohm resistor makes .033 ohm total, 900 lumens at start up.

I changed the led wires to 24AWG and swapped the led for LH351D 4000k 90 cri, you can also see the screws that hold the MCPCB down.

The pieces from the head removal, driver or MCPCB not taken out yet in this photo.
Bezel isn’t glued, press it against something with grip, like a big wide rubber band or leather and it spins right off.

Nice sub-lumen LOW, doesn’t even register in my lumen tube.

A pic beside It’s brother from another mother. V11R is smaller in diameter but the RRT is smaller in length.

Love these control ring lights, dial in just the right amount of light UI, sweet. :smiley: :beer:

Big thanks 007! This looks like a go for me.

- Clemence

Clemence the opening for the MCPCB is 13.5 mm.
I measured the parasitic drain at off between 15 to 60 uA, it fluctuates up and down.
The color of the RRT has a gray hue to it, it looks black but it’s like a really dark gray, almost black.
The difference can be see beside the V11R pic.

thanks for sharing all the info
with outstanding photos!

@moderator007 can you tell me diameter of reflector? Triple led maybe fix

According to the measurements of the MCPCB, that would be complicated, it seems…
The pill might have to be modified, no?

Sure, looks like 18mm. This new RRT is made exactly like a V11R in most ways. I have seen a triple V11R on this forum some where.
I found it. My new Triple XPG2 Sunwayman V11R Mirage
If I remember correctly, the MCPCB isn’t setting on the led shelf. I think chibim said it was setting on the top of the pill.
Looking at the pics above, the one showing the screws in the MCPCB, the triple MCPCB sets above the led at the top of tube where the led sets now.
Its not really a good heat path. It might could be filled to improve that though. You could shoot chibim a PM and ask how he done it.
This RRT should be moddable by the same method I would think.

I ordered two RRT01 from HKequiment, i will disassembly and mod triple led when received

Looking forward to see your mod :wink:

Got the RRT01 in the mail today. I never had the original so I can’t compare it. I really like it though. Wow it gets super low, lower than my V11R or Zebralight SC25w and those were my lowest sublumen lights. Quality is on par with my other Jetbeams so it feels like it’s built like a tank. Feels much more substantial in my hand than the V11R. I ditched that on cell rechargeable 16340 and solder blobbed a few 18350’s.

Then onto the bench it went where it got a Samnsung LH351 5000k. Very nice beam and tint now. The stock tint wasn’t all that bad really. I mean it was really really white but, didn’t seem to have any crazy tint shifts. Had one ring in the beam. I probably wouldn’t even notice it during everyday use though. No rings with the LH emitter. I usually put diffuser film on most of my lens’s anyway. In my small lights that is. My dedicated thorwers remain throwers but every day use lights normally have film on them.

Great addition to the rotation of carry lights. Is it worth the money? I don’t know. Some people would consider it expensive and others wouldn’t. Besides a ZL It’s about my max that I spend on light. I guess time will tell. So far so good though.

Thanks for the testimony, Todd! :+1:

I have a 2nd release RRT-01 (with the shorter clip). Great light, but I don’t like the tint all that much. I’m sort of half-torn between getting it modded with a new emitter or buying the new RRT-01. It would probably end up costing the same as the new light to mod… I think the previous RRT-01 has a nicer look to it, but the boost in power on the new one is seriously compelling.

Not sure of your tint preference but if you don’t mind cold white, it gets plenty bright. I really wish I had previous models to compare it to. So my opinion on it is pretty biased. A emitter swap is doable by anyone with a soldering iron and a steady hand. It’s not even completely necessary to remove anything but the bezel to access the emitter. The price is one that it might sway someone from getting it if they aren’t magnetic ring variable fans already I reckon. I am glad I took a chance on it. Huge improvement over the V11R, the only other ring light I have.

Good to hear modding isn’t too bad. But if you’re not taking the pill out, how do you get it hot enough to float the emitter? Do you have a pretty powerful soldering iron? Enough solder caked on that you don’t need to add any, just some flux?

[quote=xevious]

Sorry, I didn’t explain my self well. You can just unsolder the connections to the MCPCB/Star/LED board, whatever you are use to hearing it described by, and taking the two screws off the same board and pluck the board out. Then you can use whatever helping hands type vise you use to hold the board and reflow another emitter. I always run a solder tip that has some extra solder on it over the pads on the board, add a touch of flux and heat her up. I will push down on the emitter to squeeze out any extra solder and pick it away with a toothpick or something. I test it with a DMM on the continuity setting making sure it works. Then the board can go back in, screws put back in and power wires from the driver resolderd in place. It’s much easier to get to if you unscrew the head I guess you call it, from right above the ring but it’s not necessary. Not much room but, there’s barely enough.

Had some 60 degree waffle type TIR’s laying around that fit it. Found a orange peel reflector that fit was well. Don’t know where it came from, it was just in a box of parts that was given to me. The TIR was awesome but a bit too floody for me. The OP reflector made it pretty nice and the original SMO reflector with DCFix on the lens made it just right for me.

Slick looking light for sure. Better to MOD or leave as is?

If you like 6500K cold white. It’s just fine as is. If not, throw a emitter of your choice in there. I picked a different emitter.