It may also be a good idea to modify the low voltage threshold in the firmware, but otherwise… yeah. It should work fine with LiFePO4 if it has an appropriate emitter. For example, some color XP-E2 emitters have particularly low Vf.
If only there was an option to have my FW3A made with those colours :heart_eyes:
Since its no longer “straight off the lathe” it’d be incredible to have a colourful option :innocent:
I’ve been surfing the forum for a bit. This is my first post.
I just received, and love, the recent delivery of 2x BLF A6 (black/clear) from BG. Seeing this thread and the new knowledge I’ve gleaned from this forum, I have to get in on this GB! Put me down for one (XPL-HI), please. #1887
Heck, I’m still waiting for the slow canoe from China (FT shipper) that’s carrying my 2x Convoy S2+ (black/clear).
Happy to be here. I’ll post more soon (still in learn mode).
You can change the colour of Ti with voltage.
Some of the Rey pattern look like if they used a flexible PCB with a pattern, wraped it arround the tube and then applyed different voltages for different colors.
Or you have resistors on the flex PCB to get automatically the different voltages.
Maybe they work with one voltage for the body color and than they do the pattern.
Heat works also
Other Ti parts I see look if someone wraped a heated wire around it.
Yeah, here’s a rough colour guide to voltage effect: (Borrowing TKs picture)
There’s instruction videos on how to do it.
Looks like the Dawn sections were submerged separately for a base colour then “painted”.
You can submerge the Ti or apply the electrodes to a painting implement and kinda paint different colours on, cool.
I did this light with heat:
But, we would need a titanium version for this of course
“Titanium anodize is an electrochemical process that varies the mass of the oxide layer that naturally occurs on the titanium base metal. By varying this mass using different voltages, a wide range of unique colors can be produced without the use of dyes or harsh brighteners, leaving the chemistry and structure of the substrate unchanged.”
Your probably right joechina about using a pattern. One way to get the same effect is to use a small sponge soaked in electrolyte on your negative lead after first doing a base color… but this method would be much to labor intensive & slow for mass production.
As CRX said, Titanium can also be heat colored… but that is not as durable as anodizing. And I don’t think the splash effect could be achieved with heat.
/\ Exactly…
You can achieve various base colors by varying immersion times and/or voltage.
And then come back with higher voltages in the ‘splash stage’… as you said.