Video is almost done
And the video is done. It is 8 times faster than real life and the same things on opposite sides only appear once to not be soo long and boring. In reality it takes 20-30 minutes. I add it also to the OP.
Enjoy it:
Thanks Zozz. A video is worth a thousand pictures. I have one to do so hope I dont stuff it up.
Very nice work, Zozz. 
Thank you all!
More meticulous than actually hard, just go at it slow and easy. Being especially careful at the dice portion to not clip the edge of the die… this will result in a visible blue emission if phosphor is chipped off the die surface. 
Love the video!
The first victim.
This was in my MF02 fet driven flashlight. Stayed on turbo for 5 minutes and half of it died. I was stupid maybe or the led was weaker. I don’t know. I used this light a few times to run 1-2 minutes turbo but that was too much. that two die was a bit dimmer before the died so maybe that was just the last nail in the coffin.
What if I use a knife instead of a blade?
My idea is to buy a cheap knife with a relatively stiff blade, and sharpen it to single bevel style:
I don’t know though if this style of blade puts an unnecessary upward force to the dome’s material, or cuts it nicely.
I installed a 4000K 80 CRI XHP7.02 in my L6 and hated the puke carona. Sliced the dome and remove the silicone around the dies, but not all the extra phosphor https://photos.app.goo.gl/YBWnyJmUG5tyBGvi9 . But it doesn’t glow so it doesn’t bother me. The results are epic though. It seems to be around 3300K when compared to a 3000K and 4000K XM-L2. Not as neatly done as ZozzV6, but I encourage everyone to try it. I did this to my 3V XHP50.2 6000K BLF A6 and it is also epic.
Did you use the XHP70.2 5A “80CRI” from Kaidomain?
Yes… I was expecting a warm tint with green but surprisingly came out really well. I’m gonna do the same with my other XHP70.2 lights. Love the tint!
Interesting, I saw the XHP70.2 5A in a C8+ and liked the tint since it was slightly rosy, comparable to the D4 with XPL-HI 5D’s.
1) was the original led before shaving (slightly) rosy?
2) besides lowering the CCT, did the shaving affect the tint? Is it still slightly rosy after shaving?
Before shaving it, the hotspot was rosy but carona was green and yellow. Unbearable!
Now it’s a rosy golden colour. When I put the reflector on the spill was very slightly blue but that’s because of the AR lens. I tested it without the lens and the tint was very consistent. I will try and take a picture tonight next to a Luxeon V 4000K for comparison.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bfSVsCZrY54JuH989
The 3 beamshots together are as follows…
Left: Convoy S3 - Luxeon V
Middle: Convoy L6 - Sliced XHP70.2 4000K 80CRI
Right: BLF A6 - Sliced 3V XHP50.2 6000K
Cree LED’s from Kaidomain. To my eyes, the sliced XHP50.2 has a slight green tint at lower current, like some Nichia 219 C’s. But at higher current it goes pure white.
Interesting! 
Judging from the pictures the tint of the sliced XHP50.2 6000K gets close to the 4000K Luxeon V. Does the XHP50.2 look like 4000K or 5000K also in reality?
There is a dedicated tool called a microtome to cut very slim slice of materials to be view under a microscope. They are also used in pogotonomy (the art of shaving).
A microtome has a chisel profil with a flat ground or an hollow ground. An hollow ground makes it a very good slicer, the blade being very thin behind the edge.
Probably low grade carbon steel but here an example : Straight Razor for Simple Hand Microtome = 18$
or
Rasoir de microtome = 8,90€
Traditionnal japanese razors (kamisori) also have a chisel ground but are much more expensive : ebay
All those blades are pretty simple to sharpen and hone with waterstones, plenty of videos on youtube
Today I started to sharpen a knife, which cost about a dollar (yeah, I collected some sharpening stones and “scary sharp” lapping sheets). Hopefully, I will have the desired blade, something similar than in your picture. The only problem, that I can’t create such beautiful blade shape, as some of the Japanese sharpeners on Youtube. Maybe, it will just take some more time.
That pogotonomy… this is, when someone cuts a piece of hair to 14 pieces? Maybe I will be able to do the same, although not lengthwise but breadthwise :person_facepalming:
5000K, maybe a bit lower, very close to the 4800K in one of my special edition S1R Baton II’s. But I’m considering buying an MHVast TS70 and also slicing the dome.
I need one of those scalpels the guys are mentioning here… Damn!
1mm aluminium plate for an XHP70 … interesting … at first I was afraid of using the 1.33mm thick washer on my XM-L nock-off looking LEDs, but 1.04 worked good as well.
Unfortunately, my cut does not look better than these I will post some pictures also, if I find out how to make beamshot pictures with an anyway dead lamp 
(some wires and batteries will do, I think)
Instead of flooding this thread with pictures, I have opened a new one