I recently tried razor blade dedoming over turpentine bathed emitters (dome softening up) and it seems to work well. The turpentine bath did not do much on an old XM-L first generation softening up wise, it was done for 2 to 3 days but at refrigerator temp (I like the smell of turpentine in my fridge :-D LoL).
My SST-20s(FB4) also have some hulk factor at lower currents, and at higher currents the beam is noticeably yellow through the Carclo 10507. I feel like 319A gives a cleaner light and 219C is only slightly green?
I wonder how came this emitter was so highly rated initially. Did worse batches hit the market? Or did we not understand it enough?
Does dedoming improve tint significantly? I ask partially because I’ve seen a mention of SFT-20-W on Luminus website and in several other places….this would be SST-20 but flat from the factory.
I think the negative comments on the SST-20 are in comparison to other emitters that have GREAT tint. When compared to other Cree emitters or recent 219C 5000K it is still pretty nice.
I think I have lights with 3000K 3500K and 4000K. I could try mixing them by just shining on a wall but problem is they are different output and reflector/tir.
If I recall the 3500K looks fairly good on its own (from Mouser / BlueSword) so if you haven’t purchased emitters yet I would suggest trying that over buying 2 emitters you know you dont like.
Could you please append here a non-sacrificial output test of the razor-dedomed emitter, maukka? It would provide nice information regarding the potential output loss versus domed emitter.
I second this, if it’s not too much effort. My triple had a better tint after shaving but it took a big output loss. That’s the thing with this LED, it’s throwy without dedoming so shaving the LED just to fix the tint is not a great trade off.