Welcome to BLF! Happy to see you here. 
You’ll be included in the next interest list update.
Always in learn mode. Learn mode is life.
Welcome to BLF Dougiestyle, enjoy your stay!! . 
You can change the colour of Ti with voltage.
Some of the Rey pattern look like if they used a flexible PCB with a pattern, wraped it arround the tube and then applyed different voltages for different colors.
Or you have resistors on the flex PCB to get automatically the different voltages.
Maybe they work with one voltage for the body color and than they do the pattern.
Heat works also
Other Ti parts I see look if someone wraped a heated wire around it.
But this are only guesses.
Yeah, here’s a rough colour guide to voltage effect: (Borrowing TKs picture)
There’s instruction videos on how to do it.
Looks like the Dawn sections were submerged separately for a base colour then “painted”.
You can submerge the Ti or apply the electrodes to a painting implement and kinda paint different colours on, cool.
I did this light with heat:
But, we would need a titanium version for this of course 
“Titanium anodize is an electrochemical process that varies the mass of the oxide layer that naturally occurs on the titanium base metal. By varying this mass using different voltages, a wide range of unique colors can be produced without the use of dyes or harsh brighteners, leaving the chemistry and structure of the substrate unchanged.”
Your probably right joechina about using a pattern. One way to get the same effect is to use a small sponge soaked in electrolyte on your negative lead after first doing a base color… but this method would be much to labor intensive & slow for mass production.
As CRX said, Titanium can also be heat colored… but that is not as durable as anodizing. And I don’t think the splash effect could be achieved with heat.
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You can stack colors. The Rey lamp has blue, brown, purple as base = low voltage.
Ontop you can apply yellow and red with higher voltage.
/\ Exactly…
You can achieve various base colors by varying immersion times and/or voltage.
And then come back with higher voltages in the ‘splash stage’… as you said.
And 6 months later you can do it all over again as it will gradually turn back to the natural Ti color with even the slightest wear and tear. 
So a different design every so often…
This just gets better & better 
It’ll be like Christmas twice a year with a new design “every 6 months”.
I see no downside……
That’s why I don’t think I should actually use it. It’s pretty, but I don’t trust it to stay that way if it gets used. If it’s anodized like I think it is, the finish won’t be very durable.
The FW3A gets used a lot though — more than any other light I have.
I really fell in love with this:
It’s really not my kind of light. And it’s expensive for me, very. But the looks made it really hard to resist.
I would get one if not for durability worries. Now it seems this was a right choice….
So…is there any way to get such effect and have it seriously durable?
[quote=FW3A Team]
Interest List
Valera I’m interested 1pc (darker)
Please don’t qoute giant lists. Just say you want one and that is all.
Wow that is one long quote!
I am sorry, but I could not insert my message
Can you please edit your previous post?
You can click on “edit” and then erase” all the information about the list; just leave your phrase there saying that you want one
What cells are y’all gonna use?
I mainly use Samsung INR18650-30Q but don’t have any spare. For slightly longer runtimes, I’m thinking of getting either Samsung INR18650-35E or Sanyo NCR18650GA. Is there much, if any, real world difference between the 35E and the GA?
Here are my findings so far:
- 35E has very slightly more capacity.
- GA performs slightly better at high currents.
- GA performs slightly better in extreme cold conditions - this doesn’t really matter to me.
- Cycle life is pretty much identical; 60% capacity after 500 cycles.
- 35E is 10% cheaper than GA.
- 35E is pink, GA is red
I’m a big fan of 35E, superb cell and relatively cheap.
But for hot rods like FW3A I would recommend GA. I think it would be healthier for the cell (you’re going to exceed the rated current anyway) and also you’ll get a bit higher output.
Neither difference is big really. But I feel a bit more powerful cell is just the right choice.
Both are wrong. Becaus they are rated for 8A continous. With this flashlight, you will get around 15-20A power draw.
So please use Samsung 25R/30Q, Sony VTC5/5A/6, LG HE4/HG2 or similar.