It seems like a decent color reference, but more distinctly, it makes me crave a rainbow-anodized titanium version.
You’ll probably have to talk to Rey (WWEFANS) about that. I still don’t know how exactly he got a rainbow-splatter finish on the Ti Dawn:
If only there was an option to have my FW3A made with those colours
Since its no longer “straight off the lathe” it’d be incredible to have a colourful option
I’ve been surfing the forum for a bit. This is my first post.
I just received, and love, the recent delivery of 2x BLF A6 (black/clear) from BG. Seeing this thread and the new knowledge I’ve gleaned from this forum, I have to get in on this GB! Put me down for one (XPL-HI), please. #1887
Heck, I’m still waiting for the slow canoe from China (FT shipper) that’s carrying my 2x Convoy S2+ (black/clear).
Happy to be here. I’ll post more soon (still in learn mode).
You can change the colour of Ti with voltage.
Some of the Rey pattern look like if they used a flexible PCB with a pattern, wraped it arround the tube and then applyed different voltages for different colors.
Or you have resistors on the flex PCB to get automatically the different voltages.
Maybe they work with one voltage for the body color and than they do the pattern.
Heat works also
Other Ti parts I see look if someone wraped a heated wire around it.
Yeah, here’s a rough colour guide to voltage effect: (Borrowing TKs picture)
There’s instruction videos on how to do it.
Looks like the Dawn sections were submerged separately for a base colour then “painted”.
You can submerge the Ti or apply the electrodes to a painting implement and kinda paint different colours on, cool.
I did this light with heat:
But, we would need a titanium version for this of course
“Titanium anodize is an electrochemical process that varies the mass of the oxide layer that naturally occurs on the titanium base metal. By varying this mass using different voltages, a wide range of unique colors can be produced without the use of dyes or harsh brighteners, leaving the chemistry and structure of the substrate unchanged.”
Your probably right joechina about using a pattern. One way to get the same effect is to use a small sponge soaked in electrolyte on your negative lead after first doing a base color… but this method would be much to labor intensive & slow for mass production.
As CRX said, Titanium can also be heat colored… but that is not as durable as anodizing. And I don’t think the splash effect (such as TK’s light) could be achieved with heat.
.
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
/\ Exactly…
You can achieve various base colors by varying immersion times and/or voltage.
And then come back with higher voltages in the ‘splash stage’… as you said.
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
And 6 months later you can do it all over again as it will gradually turn back to the natural Ti color with even the slightest wear and tear.
That’s why I don’t think I should actually use it. It’s pretty, but I don’t trust it to stay that way if it gets used. If it’s anodized like I think it is, the finish won’t be very durable.
The FW3A gets used a lot though — more than any other light I have.
It’s really not my kind of light. And it’s expensive for me, very. But the looks made it really hard to resist.
I would get one if not for durability worries. Now it seems this was a right choice….
So…is there any way to get such effect and have it seriously durable?
Please don’t qoute giant lists. Just say you want one and that is all.
I am sorry, but I could not insert my message
Can you please edit your previous post?
You can click on “edit” and then erase” all the information about the list; just leave your phrase there saying that you want one
I mainly use Samsung INR18650-30Q but don’t have any spare. For slightly longer runtimes, I’m thinking of getting either Samsung INR18650-35E or Sanyo NCR18650GA. Is there much, if any, real world difference between the 35E and the GA?
Here are my findings so far:
35E has very slightly more capacity.
GA performs slightly better at high currents.
GA performs slightly better in extreme cold conditions – this doesn’t really matter to me.
Cycle life is pretty much identical; 60% capacity after 500 cycles.
I’m a big fan of 35E, superb cell and relatively cheap.
But for hot rods like FW3A I would recommend GA. I think it would be healthier for the cell (you’re going to exceed the rated current anyway) and also you’ll get a bit higher output.
Neither difference is big really. But I feel a bit more powerful cell is just the right choice.
I mainly use Samsung INR18650-30Q but don’t have any spare. For slightly longer runtimes, I’m thinking of getting either Samsung INR18650-35E or Sanyo NCR18650GA. Is there much, if any, real world difference between the 35E and the GA?
Here are my findings so far:
35E has very slightly more capacity.
GA performs slightly better at high currents.
GA performs slightly better in extreme cold conditions – this doesn’t really matter to me.
Cycle life is pretty much identical; 60% capacity after 500 cycles.
35E is 10% cheaper than GA.
35E is pink, GA is red
Both are wrong. Becaus they are rated for 8A continous. With this flashlight, you will get around 15-20A power draw.
So please use Samsung 25R/30Q, Sony VTC5/5A/6, LG HE4/HG2 or similar.
I mainly use Samsung INR18650-30Q but don’t have any spare. For slightly longer runtimes, I’m thinking of getting either Samsung INR18650-35E or Sanyo NCR18650GA. Is there much, if any, real world difference between the 35E and the GA?
Here are my findings so far:
35E has very slightly more capacity.
GA performs slightly better at high currents.
GA performs slightly better in extreme cold conditions – this doesn’t really matter to me.
Cycle life is pretty much identical; 60% capacity after 500 cycles.
35E is 10% cheaper than GA.
35E is pink, GA is red
Both are wrong. Becaus they are rated for 8A continous. With this flashlight, you will get around 15-20A power draw.
So please use Samsung 25R/30Q, Sony VTC5/5A/6, LG HE4/HG2 or similar.
GA is 10A rated.
And the draw will be high only for short periods before the light steps down.
If only there was an option to have my FW3A made with those colours
Since its no longer “straight off the lathe” it’d be incredible to have a colourful option
That rey light is a 100$ or something right? i prefer the cleaner look on the fw3a and since its under 40$ i dont complain.
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
Wasnt complaining just making chit chat, I think I mentioned it would be incredible to have an option and I didn’t say free
iknow no problem, would be fun see such color options for those that want, probably advanced process coloring the light like that one.
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
All you need is a box of crayons
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - Mods & Builds - -Stuff for Sale -
or just leave in on the floor in a room that my misus is decorating
The LH351D 90CRI actually has about the same forward voltage as the SST-20 actually.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
My daughter is two so the crayons are HERS ONLY
I’ve been surfing the forum for a bit. This is my first post.
I just received, and love, the recent delivery of 2x BLF A6 (black/clear) from BG. Seeing this thread and the new knowledge I’ve gleaned from this forum, I have to get in on this GB! Put me down for one (XPL-HI), please. #1887Heck, I’m still waiting for the slow canoe from China (FT shipper) that’s carrying my 2x Convoy S2+ (black/clear).
Happy to be here. I’ll post more soon (still in learn mode).
Welcome to BLF! Happy to see you here.
You’ll be included in the next interest list update.
Always in learn mode. Learn mode is life.
Welcome to BLF Dougiestyle, enjoy your stay!! .
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
You can change the colour of Ti with voltage.
Some of the Rey pattern look like if they used a flexible PCB with a pattern, wraped it arround the tube and then applyed different voltages for different colors.
Or you have resistors on the flex PCB to get automatically the different voltages.
Maybe they work with one voltage for the body color and than they do the pattern.
Heat works also
Other Ti parts I see look if someone wraped a heated wire around it.
But this are only guesses.
Yeah, here’s a rough colour guide to voltage effect: (Borrowing TKs picture)
There’s instruction videos on how to do it.
Looks like the Dawn sections were submerged separately for a base colour then “painted”.
You can submerge the Ti or apply the electrodes to a painting implement and kinda paint different colours on, cool.
I did this light with heat:
But, we would need a titanium version for this of course
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - Mods & Builds - -Stuff for Sale -
“Titanium anodize is an electrochemical process that varies the mass of the oxide layer that naturally occurs on the titanium base metal. By varying this mass using different voltages, a wide range of unique colors can be produced without the use of dyes or harsh brighteners, leaving the chemistry and structure of the substrate unchanged.”
Your probably right joechina about using a pattern. One way to get the same effect is to use a small sponge soaked in electrolyte on your negative lead after first doing a base color… but this method would be much to labor intensive & slow for mass production.
As CRX said, Titanium can also be heat colored… but that is not as durable as anodizing. And I don’t think the splash effect (such as TK’s light) could be achieved with heat.
.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
You can stack colors. The Rey lamp has blue, brown, purple as base = low voltage.
Ontop you can apply yellow and red with higher voltage.
/\ Exactly…
You can achieve various base colors by varying immersion times and/or voltage.
And then come back with higher voltages in the ‘splash stage’… as you said.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
And 6 months later you can do it all over again as it will gradually turn back to the natural Ti color with even the slightest wear and tear.
So a different design every so often..
This just gets better & better
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - Mods & Builds - -Stuff for Sale -
It’ll be like Christmas twice a year with a new design “every 6 months”.
I see no downside……
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
That’s why I don’t think I should actually use it. It’s pretty, but I don’t trust it to stay that way if it gets used. If it’s anodized like I think it is, the finish won’t be very durable.
The FW3A gets used a lot though — more than any other light I have.
I really fell in love with this:
It’s really not my kind of light. And it’s expensive for me, very. But the looks made it really hard to resist.
I would get one if not for durability worries. Now it seems this was a right choice….
So…is there any way to get such effect and have it seriously durable?
[quote=FW3A Team]
Interest List
Valera I’m interested 1pc (darker)
Please don’t qoute giant lists. Just say you want one and that is all.
KSGER STM32 2.1S Soldering Station Videos
Convoy L6 thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. - Supfire L5-S thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. Mini L6! - Thorfire S70S MTN FET driver, custom lighted side switch. - 10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, GT Micro, Astrolux S43(S) and ROT66
Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube and Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - List of Actively Cooled Lights - Headlight List with prices, specs and features - Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results - Lumintop GT Micro Test Results - FW3A 3D Test Results
Wow that is one long quote!
Xiaomi Powerbank 3 Pro Review [WTS] PRICEDROPS!! Acebeam K70, Meteor M43, Firefoxes HID USB power meter/tester thread - YZXStudio, Power-Z, AVHzY, Kotomi, Ruideng
I am sorry, but I could not insert my message
Can you please edit your previous post?
You can click on “edit” and then erase” all the information about the list; just leave your phrase there saying that you want one
[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
GIVEAWAY: 1
What cells are y’all gonna use?
I mainly use Samsung INR18650-30Q but don’t have any spare. For slightly longer runtimes, I’m thinking of getting either Samsung INR18650-35E or Sanyo NCR18650GA. Is there much, if any, real world difference between the 35E and the GA?
Here are my findings so far:
I’m a big fan of 35E, superb cell and relatively cheap.
But for hot rods like FW3A I would recommend GA. I think it would be healthier for the cell (you’re going to exceed the rated current anyway) and also you’ll get a bit higher output.
Neither difference is big really. But I feel a bit more powerful cell is just the right choice.
Both are wrong. Becaus they are rated for 8A continous. With this flashlight, you will get around 15-20A power draw.
So please use Samsung 25R/30Q, Sony VTC5/5A/6, LG HE4/HG2 or similar.
GA is 10A rated.
And the draw will be high only for short periods before the light steps down.
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