The only thing visually apparent is that the LED board separated from the pill slightly. There’s thermal transfer compound between the LED board and the pill surface, but they weren’t touching. The board is just floating a little above the pill. Is that an issue? I assume not as it must compress together once it’s pressed against the reflector in the body.
Is it worth de-soldering everything at this point and re-soldering the four connection points? I’ll be honest - I have very little soldering experience and my iron is a piece of junk. Perhaps it’s time to invest in a new one.
Battery fine. Contact Gearbest.
I’ve had 2 faulty items from them over the yrs (torches)
Under $20AUD.
Coupla Photo’s. Instant changeover. No quibbling.
Don’t bother returning old.
It is if you get a driver from Simon at Convoy’s Ali store. You can purchase Biscotti drivers at whatever number of 7135s you want at a very good price. The S2+’s host is practically a legend, and worth experimenting with.
Also yeah, it’s a good idea to get a better iron. My brother and I struggled quite a bit with a weak one that didn’t even melt the solder right, so I went ahead and got a decent 60w one in my following trip to the hardware store. All is good in the neighborhood for future driver or emitter swaps.
Beautiful. I got that exact driver to replace the 3/5 I had on my first S2 – I have another one with 7135x6 Biscotti but this one has sentimental value (and the LED tint is rosier and nicer) –, and since I did the swap I’ve been enjoying it a lot. It’s been my go-to biking light in these final days of Daylight Savings Time when it’s complete darkness before 6AM (I leave the house between 5:30 and 5:45AM, when there’s barely a hint of dawn in the sky).
Just be careful not to run it pell mell at 100% power too long, the S2+ doesn’t have the cooling potential to safely maintain that much output. I like to keep my S2 at mode group 8 (max mode 50% of full power) and will do the same when my Nichia S2+ gets to me.
It depends. I had a 7145 x6 turn on in my jacket by accident and it was too hot to hold after it was on for guessing 5 to 10 minutes. I had to hold it with my jacket sleeve just to be able to turn it to off. But holding it in my hand on other occasions, it was hot but bearable to hold.
I’d gone for it for heating reasons, but once I found a temperature test that indicated an S2+ in x6 reaching the same risky max temperature as x8 but a bit slower, I decided “bugger it” and went for x8 when I got the new drivers. I did notice the x8 being marginally brighter than the x6 on 10% mode and above.
On 50% it’s like you’re running a 7135x4 at full blast, which is very much tried and safe. During my 15-ish minute morning commute, it doesn’t even get warm. And the battery lasts forever. Not bad at all for swapping about 25% perceived brightness for more or less 2 more hours of runtime :laughing:
I ordered from AliExpress the same above ^
(2)S2+ 7135x8 And
(1)S2+ 7135x3
Two weeks ago and found out they’re on Chinese New Year vacation for a month. I think they’ll be back the 12th February
Nice. I’m looking forward to a high quality 4000 kelvin light. The SST-20 also looks to be efficient, with a higher lumen output than the 219C, I think.
most things with LVP faults come from a defect on the voltage divider,
the S2+ should have 19.1k and 4.7k to generate about 0.7V on MCU pin 7 which gets compared to a internal voltage reference
it happens that one resistor end is not correctly reflow soldered and does not give electrical contact, as the LVP ready low this has to be on the 19.1k resistor
I have a Samsung LH351D 5000K 90cri I believe. A friend bought a bunch and sent a few my way. I can send you one on a 16mm Mountain board if you would like to try it out. No charge or anything. I don’t have any 4000K emitters but I don’t mind flowing a emitter on a board for you if it would make your light more enjoyable. Just PM an address and I can get it in the mail sometime tomorrow.
I put that emitter in a few of my Jetbeam Jet-I MK and they are quite pleasant.
go to your garage
take a soldering iron, with a small tip
stick it to the tiny part with 28C or 223 marking on both sides and see if that fixes the problem
holding the resistor with tweezers is helpful if you hit the good side it becomes loose if other is not soldered right
Somewhat suspicious of the EVVA cell. This guy’s D4s with a EVVA 26650 is doing the exact same thing, and purchased from the same place. Probably just a coincidence though
You won’t hit 3A charging a cell phone like you would on the flashlight
Toddcshoe, that’s incredibly generous! I’d love to try that! I’m such a newbie that I have to ask what diameter this would be? Would it fit in the S2+?
cool.
