It shows on there website now not to use over 20a batteries on the sst20 emitters. Not much mention about the nichia leds, they must be out.
I still don’t see an explicit warning (all I see is “For SST20 version, around 20A discharge rate needed, LS 20A 21700 recommended”) but it’s good that they now have better recommendations online.. I guess I will try mine with the 30Q to get to know how sst-20 look like before attempting the emitter swap to Samsung.
For something completely different: I have seen people with a mixed blue/purple aux-LED setup. I would have ordered that but I couldn’t find it anywhere so I went with just purple. Are those custom modded or would FireFlies have done that if I had asked?
Edit: Here is a sample image on Neals page (but apparently those are the generic FireFlies product images):
LEDs self-destructing due to excessive heat – plausible given the thermal compound issues, but I’d have to see more than one post on this thread stating it for confirmation that this is happening.
But Fireflies already admitted that (and not due to excessive heat, apparently). See quote at point 6. again: “For E07 SST20 / Nichia version , we only recommend max 20A battery , 20A battery can reach max power for E07 SST20/Nichia version. With a 30T battery on SST20 or Nichia the turbo will go blue no matter how much paste used.” I have not found this recommendation anywhere. Does it come with the instructions maybe?
Edit/P.S.: I don’t want to give the impression that FireFlies is the devil himself. Far from it. They produced a fabulous looking light. They listened to us when we demanded a clear anodized version. (Which is the version I ordered) I just can’t wrap my head around all those tiny details they are lacking. That are sometimes so obviously wrong. Like the PL47 headband. I am really looking forward to their future.
It may be that the Nichia or SST20 just can’t take the current and that’s why they are going blue. If that’s the case, then no amount of improving the heatsink path at the star-pill interface will help. The problem is the peak output of the light is too high for the emitter when used with a full cell.
Are we really believing that any 21700 cells are outputting a constant 49A?! That’s about the point SST-20s die at (x7 emitters).
Olight: M3XS-UT, S Mini CU, R50 CU, R50 Pro LE, M2R, I3T Cu, S30R III, Marauder X6, X7R, X9R - BLF: Q8, A6, GT, GT mini - Emisar: D1s, D4Ti - Reylight: Tripple Dawn, Ti Lan
LEDs self-destructing due to excessive heat – plausible given the thermal compound issues, but I’d have to see more than one post on this thread stating it for confirmation that this is happening.
But Fireflies already admitted that (and not due to excessive heat, apparently). See quote at point 6. again: “For E07 SST20 / Nichia version , we only recommend max 20A battery , 20A battery can reach max power for E07 SST20/Nichia version. With a 30T battery on SST20 or Nichia the turbo will go blue no matter how much paste used.” I have not found this recommendation anywhere. Does it come with the instructions maybe?
Edit/P.S.: I don’t want to give the impression that FireFlies is the devil himself. Far from it. They produced a fabulous looking light. They listened to us when we demanded a clear anodized version. (Which is the version I ordered) I just can’t wrap my head around all those tiny details they are lacking. That are sometimes so obviously wrong. Like the PL47 headband. I am really looking forward to their future.
It may be that the Nichia or SST20 just can’t take the current and that’s why they are going blue. If that’s the case, then no amount of improving the heatsink path at the star-pill interface will help. The problem is the peak output of the light is too high for the emitter when used with a full cell.
Are we really believing that any 21700 cells are outputting a constant 49A?! That’s about the point SST-20s die at (x7 emitters).
Easy enough to measure if anyone cares to do that (I have no E07)
Apparently it’s a known issue (I believe I read about it in the FW3A thread that all 3 FF lights do that).
My clear E07 didn’t do it with the stock SST’s but all you should have to do is set the ramp floor a little higher (try one step at a time).
—
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
just curious, are u calling moonlight the bottom of the ramp?
With Anduril, the bottom of the ramp is moon. It doesn’t have a separate moon level like NarsilM does.
About the flickering, it seems to vary per 7135 chip. Some do it, some don’t. I think I may have found a workaround though, and it’s included in recent builds.
As far as i see, its the only light that does it out of all my ff lights.
Yeah, that’s what makes the issue tricky. I don’t have any lights with the flickering issue, so I’ve had to take guesses about how to deal with it, send files to other people, and hope they’ll be willing to test it for me. I think I finally found something which works though.
I still don’t see an explicit warning (all I see is “For SST20 version, around 20A discharge rate needed, LS 20A 21700 recommended”) but it’s good that they now have better recommendations online.. I guess I will try mine with the 30Q to get to know how sst-20 look like before attempting the emitter swap to Samsung.
For something completely different: I have seen people with a mixed blue/purple aux-LED setup. I would have ordered that but I couldn’t find it anywhere so I went with just purple. Are those custom modded or would FireFlies have done that if I had asked?
Edit: Here is a sample image on Neals page (but apparently those are the generic FireFlies product images):
Are we really believing that any 21700 cells are outputting a constant 49A?! That’s about the point SST-20s die at (x7 emitters).
I’ll buy the Ti version if there is it’s all Ti and no copper etc to ruin the look.
That is cool. I’d really like one too.
I’ll wait for the Ti version
Olight: M3XS-UT, S Mini CU, R50 CU, R50 Pro LE, M2R, I3T Cu, S30R III, Marauder X6, X7R, X9R - BLF: Q8, A6, GT, GT mini - Emisar: D1s, D4Ti - Reylight: Tripple Dawn, Ti Lan
Nitecore: TM26GT, SRT9, EC11, T5s, P05Pink, LA10, HC33, HC70 - Fenix: TK75Vn FiatLux, TK76, CL05, CL09 - Lumintop: Tool Ti, IYP365Ti - Astrolux: MF01 Lexel driver - FourSevens: Maelstrom MMU-X3
Easy enough to measure if anyone cares to do that (I have no E07)
link to djozz tests
Ordered two, but decided to order one from BG, the other from FF, so it won’t really matter who sends faster.
Used your links and codes, thanks!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/akrylamid/sets/
Thanks pal! Appreciated.
1theDeals / TeamFreeme / Freeme Club
Code for bg ? Thanks
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
Got my 3rd E07 from Neal and he shipped much faster than Fireflies direct.
the MCPCB have little thermal paste but not enough spread evenly. Had to add more for extra heat transferring
Nico -.-
Is it too late for some sort of Code? I’ll take one if there is still valid option out there!
Thanks
Code for the FF store has expired. Can I ask for a banggood code?
And one more question. Is the flashlight glued? I mean head bezel, driver, etc.
Sent.
1theDeals / TeamFreeme / Freeme Club
Hello, can I get code for BG? Thanks
Where can the XPL HI V3 3A NW 5000K version be had? It’s listed in some of the descriptions but there’s no option to select it.
interested in BG group buy code — thanks FreeMe!
I’m in Clear anodizing confirmation
interested in BG group buy code
BG group buy code still available? Thanks @ freeme.
Got my grey e07 from neal. It flickers on moonlight. No matter which battery i use. Anyone else experience this?
never fear shadows…it means a light shines nearby
Apparently it’s a known issue (I believe I read about it in the FW3A thread that all 3 FF lights do that).
My clear E07 didn’t do it with the stock SST’s but all you should have to do is set the ramp floor a little higher (try one step at a time).
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
just curious, are u calling moonlight the bottom of the ramp?
Is there an ETA for shipment for the next version that addresses the thermal paste and TIR positioning issues? Thanks.
With Anduril, the bottom of the ramp is moon. It doesn’t have a separate moon level like NarsilM does.
About the flickering, it seems to vary per 7135 chip. Some do it, some don’t. I think I may have found a workaround though, and it’s included in recent builds.
thanks ToyKeeper -
can you please give me a BG coupon code?
Correct. The lowest setting. As far as i see, its the only light that does it out of all my ff lights.
never fear shadows…it means a light shines nearby
Which one is the CORRECT output for SST-20 5000K?
Neal’s website has:7x SST20 5000K NW 3500lm
Fireflies website have: 7x SST20 5000K NW 4800 lumens Turbo brightness
Solitude breeds contemplation which creates clarity.
Environment molds a person. Perseverance changes them.
WOLFDOG
Yeah, that’s what makes the issue tricky. I don’t have any lights with the flickering issue, so I’ve had to take guesses about how to deal with it, send files to other people, and hope they’ll be willing to test it for me. I think I finally found something which works though.
@wolfdog, it’s the 2nd one.
The 3500 lumens is for the 4000k version and below.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/64047
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
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