Nice! All the LuxPro lights I got recently have that nasty and very prominent urine-yellow corona from the G3s, which LP seems to use exclusively. Even when I pulled off the head and left the bare chip (ie, used as mule, no reflector or anything) and held it near a wall, you can see the nasty-ass yellow haze around the periphery, and a decent white center.
I’m wondering if inking the dome itself would do anything, and not catch fire in the process. Guess it depends on how heat-resistant is the ink and carrier, and how hard you’d push the LED.
Geez the entire dome, might be a stretch. Perhaps just try very light magenta at first and not for long. That way you can wipe it off before it gets somewhat caked on.
I can’t speak for other inks but the HP stuff is top shelf. Inkjet inks are actually sort of quasi-vaporized as part of being deposited onto papper/media so (I’m hoping) heat isn’t a problem.
Nnnnnnoooonononono, nono. I mean just ink a band around the periphery of the dome, not the whole thing. Ie, similar to your “collar” but done directly on the dome itself vs a separate doodad.
Picture your collar as a piece of heatshrink tubing, and shrink it in-place so that it just wraps around the bottom of the dome nearest the mcpcb. Like that, only done in ink vs tubing.
Doing the whole dome would also color the spill and everything else. Talk about a “rosy” tint…
Oh, my mistake, I think Magenta Collarring could help. That’s exactly what I did with the XP-G3 (photo in earlier post).
It doesn’t show in the photo because it’s on the slightly more vertical part of the dome curve but the magenta reflection at the base of the reflector is from the tinted thin band/stipe maybe 1 mm directly around the base of the emitter dome. The theory of the case being a green filter of the stray horizonal light responsible for green-tint shift.
Do post any before & afters with your trials. The more experience with different emitter/reflector configurations, the better.
Obviously with a de-domed emitter, there’s no dome to tint so no help there.
Actually, if it’s the thicker layer of phosphor around the sides that’s yellowing the beam, de-greening it by painting “the sides of the box” might in fact help tremendously.
BUT, fortunately it hasn’t happen (yet) on the lights I’ve tried, whereas my earlier attempt with a separate plastic collar melted. And, a miniscule amount of ink is used. I probably gave the wrong impressions when I previously mentioned the ink “caking”, misleading choice of words. Really I mean the ink drying out on the dome material.
The coloration should really be just a clear, almost like AR lens coating, tint and not an opaque layer.
I modded a C8+ Desert Tan with a white flat, warm white/gold lighted tail switch, and LD-A4 driver 5A from led4power.com. It's a mini light saber! I don't have the exact figures but it looks like it easily beats my L2 with a MTN buck driver 5.1A driving a XP-L HI. Next I will put a white flat in the L2…
First post, but - as per zak.wilson’s post re: Wowtac A2S and LH351D (SPHWHTL3DA0GF4RTS6), I did an emitter swap today. Didn’t think to take too many photos as I had some time pressure, but I think I did it the hard way - removed the battery terminal end, desoldered, and then took the emitter board out, and swapped it. Really should take beamshots…
I really should have thought that one out longer. There had to be a better way to remove the board. Resoldering the four wires from switch and emitter was NOT fun.
Thanks! And interesting: my clear C8 with dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B does 180kcd, so that is 16% improvement for the white flat. My B158 with XP-G2 S4 2B does 322kcd, so that is 7% improvement. So YMMV probably depending on individual led differences.
And it also can be more or less difference because of measurements error. And the XP-G2 only make that performance fully charged. Osram can maintain better when battery depletes because of low forward voltage
Well I reckon I’m gonna have to get an image hosting service so I can post pics of my project. Who says P60 is dead? I started with a 2” diameter 6061 aluminum barstock today and started boring and threading some parts together, using an old infared P60 dropin for the dimensions. The plan is to have a triple emitter P60 built by someone since electronics arent my strong point, and my host is to be heavily finned and slotted for heat dispersion. Its coming along well but I havent decided on a dropin yet. Really it depends on how much the wife lets me spend haha. May have to get a cheaper one from Kaidomain for now and wait on a Sky Lumens or PflexPro for later. Boring the body for 26650 and a sleeve for 18650 option. My first flashlight build but Ive been machining for my entire life.
That's pretty insane! 10K lumens at 90 CRI in a Q8. The spring bypasses made a huge difference. I thought the dual springs were better than that, but I always pull the inside ones and replace with a bypass.
That must be 8+ amps per LED. Did you need anything special for centering, or drilling out the reflector holes?
Please provide us more info if you could. Did you measure throw? How's the beam - does it have a significant hole? Are those 10K at startup and calibrated with maukka lights?
