Just to keep you updated, I put the Luxeon MZ on MOSLED 4040 board in a Convoy M1 with an A6 Fet driver.
The beam is smooth with the OP reflector, and it does produce some nice lemons. It’s the first time I’ve seen such a cool tint with good CRI. It’s disturbing, I don’t know if I like it yet
Anyway, it’s a nice hand warmer for the winter
The LD-4B driver is now set to 4.5A in my C8, along with an Osrma White Flat 1mm² and does a nice 160kCd
—
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
Note: if you want to order some of compatible pcbs with LEDs soldered for use with driver other than LD-B4, please add bare LEDs in cart together with PCB and leave a note about soldering.
on the LD-x4 drivers what happens if you set the current higher than what the cell or LED will support? Does it just act like a normal FET? If so, is there some extra resistance somewhere making this a bad idea?
It behaves like DD driver on that mode (so called dropout mode of linear power supply). Nothing bad will happen, this is normal condition when battery is more or less empty and (LED Vf + parasitic voltage drops) is higher than battery voltage.
I did not mod anything with Carclo optics. They fitted well, although it was a tight fit. The Luxeon V is very flood under Carclo optics. Not my cup of tea. I reverted back to Nichia’s in my Emisar D4. Will be trying out Luminus SST-20 soon… From what I have read they perform well under optics.
I did not mod anything with Carclo optics. They fitted well, although it was a tight fit. The Luxeon V is very flood under Carclo optics. Not my cup of tea. I reverted back to Nichia’s in my Emisar D4. Will be trying out Luminus SST-20 soon… From what I have read they perform well under optics.
Thanks for your input on this! I’m willing to try a Luxeon V on 10511 optics and see what I get, as it has a narrower beam.
I’m not familiarized with the Luminus, but as I’ll order from L4P, maybe I’ll try to get one to see how it looks like!
I have tried all the possible Carclo optic configurations. You just won’t get throw out of this emitter in those specific optics. The physical emitting surface is just too big! It floods beyond the TIR part. You’re better off trying the Luxeon V2, that has a smaller physical emitting surface and should yield much better optical performance.
The Luxeon V performs well in a reflector. I have a Convoy S3 single and I put swapped them in on my BLF Q8. Now it really performs!
Looking to do a hotrod build around the LD-B4/MZ DTP using an S2+ host, would the MZ be alright driven up to 12A CC using the 8-12A driver?
I had planned on doing a floody MZ triple, but I’ve read the MZ will handle up to 15A before output drops so now the plan is to use a 45/60deg pebbled TIR and a single MZ emitter driven with the 12A B4, simplifying the build without much loss in output. Is this a sane plan? I imagine a triple would be marginally more efficient at higher output than the single emitter if it were also driven up to 12A.
Looking to do a hotrod build around the LD-B4/MZ DTP using an S2+ host, would the MZ be alright driven up to 12A CC using the 8-12A driver?
I had planned on doing a floody MZ triple, but I’ve read the MZ will handle up to 15A before output drops so now the plan is to use a 45/60deg pebbled TIR and a single MZ emitter driven with the 12A B4, simplifying the build without much loss in output. Is this a sane plan? I imagine a triple would be marginally more efficient at higher output than the single emitter if it were also driven up to 12A.
45 degree should look good w/ pebbled tir. It will pull 15Amps in direct drive and 12A will only be a problem for your hands, not the LED
Oh perfect, that quashes any reservations I had about the emitter handling that current in a small host!
I guess I should also warn you. If you do not use a high current spring or bypass it with a wire you will likely have problems with it softening up to the point it loses connection/melts.
I guess I should also warn you. If you do not use a high current spring or bypass it with a wire you will likely have problems with it softening up to the point it loses connection/melts.
Note: if you want to order some of compatible pcbs with LEDs soldered for use with driver other than LD-B4, please add bare LEDs in cart together with PCB and leave a note about soldering.
The above statement confuses me. I'm about to order an KW CSLPM1.TG on ∅20mm 3030 DTP MCPCB to be fed with a heavily modified LD-29 driver, does this apply to me?
That note was about LEDs which I have, but not at all possible pcbs (mostly 3x,4x,6x mosX PCBs). For example I still don't have listed SST-20 and Luxeon V2 soldered on 32mm and 34mm mosX boards for ANGIE,CUTE and ANNA optics, but I can do that on request.
Hello Neven, you once wrote that can be reduced by replacing resistors of the moon mode. Can you tell me what they are and what value they must have? I have a LD-A4. Many Thanks
Hello Neven, you once wrote that can be reduced by replacing resistors of the moon mode. Can you tell me what they are and what value they must have? I have a LD-A4. Many Thanks
Resistor in red circle is 600Ohm (R1), resistor in green circle is 300Ohm(R2). When you select 2.5mA moonlight current in UI only 600Ohm resistor is active, when you select 5mA only 300Ohm resistor is active, and when you select 7.5mA both resistors are active.
Moonlight current can be calculated as Im1= (Vbatt-Vled)/R1, Im2=(Vbatt-Vled)/R2, Im3=Im1+Im2.
I have a very stupid question about these drivers. Will a moonlight mode in a driver configured for 6A last long as in a driver configured for 2A?
I want to put one of these drivers in a 14500 flashlight, and if on the one hand I want it to be bright, on the other I want it to last long in the lowest mode (just in case, you know…).
But I’m somehow confused and would appreciate some clarification! (I know this should be basic, but I’m below that )
Thanks in advance!
I don't recommend low melting point solders for anything flashlight related. Low temperature means low diffusion of alloy and that means weak joint.
led4power.com
L4P when will the spacers for C8 and X6 be available? They were supposed to be available a long time ago…
I will put them later today on my site.
led4power.com
Just to keep you updated, I put the Luxeon MZ on MOSLED 4040 board in a Convoy M1 with an A6 Fet driver.
The beam is smooth with the OP reflector, and it does produce some nice lemons. It’s the first time I’ve seen such a cool tint with good CRI. It’s disturbing, I don’t know if I like it yet
Anyway, it’s a nice hand warmer for the winter
The LD-4B driver is now set to 4.5A in my C8, along with an Osrma White Flat 1mm² and does a nice 160kCd
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)
My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)
M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$
Surely there is a slight donut from several meters or no?
Added:
https://led4power.com/product-category/components/
Note: if you want to order some of compatible pcbs with LEDs soldered for use with driver other than LD-B4, please add bare LEDs in cart together with PCB and leave a note about soldering.
led4power.com
Thanks. I just need a PCB. I plan to use it with lh351d 3× 4000k and 3× 5000k
on the LD-x4 drivers what happens if you set the current higher than what the cell or LED will support? Does it just act like a normal FET? If so, is there some extra resistance somewhere making this a bad idea?
It behaves like DD driver on that mode (so called dropout mode of linear power supply). Nothing bad will happen, this is normal condition when battery is more or less empty and (LED Vf + parasitic voltage drops) is higher than battery voltage.
led4power.com
Neven, will we see E-switch support on your drivers? If so, when? If not, why?
Also, why no reverse polarity protection on LD-BVHV?
I'm working on new driver generation, it will take few months,so there will be e-sw support.
Regarding LD-B4HV, there was no space on pcb left for RVP.
led4power.com
Ok, thanks.
To fit a triple MCPCB with Luxeon V under a Carclo optic, does it have to be very modded (as in, as much as with XP-L HD leds)?
Thanks in advance!
[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
GIVEAWAY: 1
I did not mod anything with Carclo optics. They fitted well, although it was a tight fit. The Luxeon V is very flood under Carclo optics. Not my cup of tea. I reverted back to Nichia’s in my Emisar D4. Will be trying out Luminus SST-20 soon… From what I have read they perform well under optics.
Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39
Thanks for your input on this! I’m willing to try a Luxeon V on 10511 optics and see what I get, as it has a narrower beam.
I’m not familiarized with the Luminus, but as I’ll order from L4P, maybe I’ll try to get one to see how it looks like!
[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
GIVEAWAY: 1
I have tried all the possible Carclo optic configurations. You just won’t get throw out of this emitter in those specific optics. The physical emitting surface is just too big! It floods beyond the TIR part. You’re better off trying the Luxeon V2, that has a smaller physical emitting surface and should yield much better optical performance.
The Luxeon V performs well in a reflector. I have a Convoy S3 single and I put swapped them in on my BLF Q8. Now it really performs!
Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39
General question about the Luxeon MZ:
Looking to do a hotrod build around the LD-B4/MZ DTP using an S2+ host, would the MZ be alright driven up to 12A CC using the 8-12A driver?
I had planned on doing a floody MZ triple, but I’ve read the MZ will handle up to 15A before output drops so now the plan is to use a 45/60deg pebbled TIR and a single MZ emitter driven with the 12A B4, simplifying the build without much loss in output. Is this a sane plan? I imagine a triple would be marginally more efficient at higher output than the single emitter if it were also driven up to 12A.
I did here:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1443020#comment-1443020
45 degree should look good w/ pebbled tir. It will pull 15Amps in direct drive and 12A will only be a problem for your hands, not the LED
Oh perfect, that quashes any reservations I had about the emitter handling that current in a small host!
I guess I should also warn you. If you do not use a high current spring or bypass it with a wire you will likely have problems with it softening up to the point it loses connection/melts.
Yeah that’s what I had figured, cheers.
The above statement confuses me. I'm about to order an KW CSLPM1.TG on ∅20mm 3030 DTP MCPCB to be fed with a heavily modified LD-29 driver, does this apply to me?
Thanks.
Cheers
The Light
I am
FIXED: How to properly insert images into your posts without breaking the forum page layout
That note was about LEDs which I have, but not at all possible pcbs (mostly 3x,4x,6x mosX PCBs). For example I still don't have listed SST-20 and Luxeon V2 soldered on 32mm and 34mm mosX boards for ANGIE,CUTE and ANNA optics, but I can do that on request.
So this does not apply to your case.
led4power.com
Hello Neven, you once wrote that can be reduced by replacing resistors of the moon mode. Can you tell me what they are and what value they must have? I have a LD-A4. Many Thanks
FET-switches and 30A drivers…
Project Excalibur - Next Generation LED Thrower (UPDATE 2018-01-15: 1.7Mcd)
Portable Thrower Comparison
Resistor in red circle is 600Ohm (R1), resistor in green circle is 300Ohm(R2). When you select 2.5mA moonlight current in UI only 600Ohm resistor is active, when you select 5mA only 300Ohm resistor is active, and when you select 7.5mA both resistors are active.
Moonlight current can be calculated as Im1= (Vbatt-Vled)/R1, Im2=(Vbatt-Vled)/R2, Im3=Im1+Im2.
led4power.com
many thanks. I first order some resistors.
I have a very stupid question about these drivers. Will a moonlight mode in a driver configured for 6A last long as in a driver configured for 2A?
I want to put one of these drivers in a 14500 flashlight, and if on the one hand I want it to be bright, on the other I want it to last long in the lowest mode (just in case, you know…).
But I’m somehow confused and would appreciate some clarification! (I know this should be basic, but I’m below that
)
Thanks in advance!
[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
GIVEAWAY: 1
Moonlight mode has nothing to do with main modes (resistor limited versus MOSFET regulated).
The Light
I am
FIXED: How to properly insert images into your posts without breaking the forum page layout
Nice!! Thanks Barkuti! I was only aware that ML could be configured for 3 different levels, but thought it would be related to the rest!
Thanks !
[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
GIVEAWAY: 1
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