Fireflies E07 preview

2039 posts / 0 new
Last post
ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 25 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10310
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

If you have the skills to do so, it’d probably be a good idea to pull out the MCPCB, file it down a bit, and put it back in with better thermal contact. Failing that, it’d probably be a good idea to limit the use of turbo, at least with the high-CRI emitters.

It sounds like the MCPCB is so thick that it can still handle heat reasonably well even with the air gap though… and I think the heat transfers to the driver through the power wires, so the driver activates turbo step-down early enough to generally keep things safe.

So, basically, just keep an eye out for a blue shift, and throttle it back hard if that ever happens. Or if you can, open it up to fix things. Be warned though, some of the work involved in that is somewhat delicate. It’s probably not a good first project, but someone with experience should be able to handle it pretty easily.

koziy
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 01/12/2019 - 12:08
Posts: 167

I’ve been trying to wade through this thread, but it seems like most of the recent posts are about DIY techniques people are using to fix faulty flashlights. Are the problems still ongoing, or have they been fixed in new production? Since FF offers DHL shipping, I would think that the delay from a new order to when its quality can be reported on isn’t going to be super long, like some of the other flashlights shipped by epacket only…right?

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 33 sec ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 3985
Location: California
koziy wrote:
I’ve been trying to wade through this thread, but it seems like most of the recent posts are about DIY techniques people are using to fix faulty flashlights. Are the problems still ongoing, or have they been fixed in new production? Since FF offers DHL shipping, I would think that the delay from a new order to when its quality can be reported on isn’t going to be super long, like some of the other flashlights shipped by epacket only…right?

Fireflies has supposedly fixed the issue of an air gap under the star by adding a much thicker layer of thermal grease to their latest production run.

However, it is unknown whether that run has made it to market yet. To date, no BLF’er has reported getting a flashlight with the extra thermal grease.

koziy
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 01/12/2019 - 12:08
Posts: 167

Have there been any reports of issues or fixes for the PL47 or ROT66 — or have the issues been limited to this model only?

TheAuditor
Online
Last seen: 56 sec ago
Joined: 12/04/2017 - 06:33
Posts: 434
Location: United Kingdom

ToyKeeper wrote:
If you have the skills to do so, it’d probably be a good idea to pull out the MCPCB, file it down a bit, and put it back in with better thermal contact. Failing that, it’d probably be a good idea to limit the use of turbo, at least with the high-CRI emitters.

It sounds like the MCPCB is so thick that it can still handle heat reasonably well even with the air gap though… and I think the heat transfers to the driver through the power wires, so the driver activates turbo step-down early enough to generally keep things safe.

So, basically, just keep an eye out for a blue shift, and throttle it back hard if that ever happens. Or if you can, open it up to fix things. Be warned though, some of the work involved in that is somewhat delicate. It’s probably not a good first project, but someone with experience should be able to handle it pretty easily.

Oh well, sounds like it is one for the box of shame, where all the broken things go to die Smile
I have plenty of reliable flashlights and won’t miss it.

Bonum commune communitatis.

Yarp.

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 33 sec ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 3985
Location: California

TheAuditor wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
If you have the skills to do so, it’d probably be a good idea to pull out the MCPCB, file it down a bit, and put it back in with better thermal contact. Failing that, it’d probably be a good idea to limit the use of turbo, at least with the high-CRI emitters.

It sounds like the MCPCB is so thick that it can still handle heat reasonably well even with the air gap though… and I think the heat transfers to the driver through the power wires, so the driver activates turbo step-down early enough to generally keep things safe.

So, basically, just keep an eye out for a blue shift, and throttle it back hard if that ever happens. Or if you can, open it up to fix things. Be warned though, some of the work involved in that is somewhat delicate. It’s probably not a good first project, but someone with experience should be able to handle it pretty easily.

Oh well, sounds like it is one for the box of shame, where all the broken things go to die Smile
I have plenty of reliable flashlights and won’t miss it.


Or you can just use the light and ignore the “under the hood” issues. It will probably still work fine even without opening it up.
Firemedic
Firemedic's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 01/04/2019 - 20:39
Posts: 102
Location: Alabama

Grey nichia arrived today. Inside looks better, the aux outside wires are a different color. Optic leg still broken. Of course the tint is nice, but what really surprised me is how quick the nichia heats up on turbo. Feels twice as hot as the XPL HI 5000k when on the same amount of time. Both look bone dry through the holes in the board. I plan on swapping led boards in the lights and using the gray at work and clear ano for home shelf queen with the nichia leds. At that time I plan on addressing the thermal issue for both of them

timbo114
timbo114's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 days 13 hours ago
Joined: 08/21/2014 - 14:24
Posts: 386
Location: On a lake in SW PA

Do the cooling fins on your grey unit have chamfered or sharp edges?

Firemedic
Firemedic's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 01/04/2019 - 20:39
Posts: 102
Location: Alabama

No.

wolfstyle
Offline
Last seen: 21 hours 27 min ago
Joined: 06/19/2015 - 11:31
Posts: 110
Location: Ohio

Got my clear XPL HI 4000K yesterday and it looks great. Today I noticed one of the LED optics looked cloudy. Took the bezel and optic out and decided to see what the light looked like mule mode. Turned it on and ramped up and the double clicked into Turbo. About 2 seconds in turbo and SMOKE started rolling out out of the light. Immediately shut it down. Guess that is what turned the optic cloudy.

I’m sure it’s not supposed to do that.

contactcr
Online
Last seen: 13 min 38 sec ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 2955
Location: US

Get a qtip and some alcohol and clean the LEDs.

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 33 sec ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 3985
Location: California

It’s definitely not supposed to do that.

Did you see where the smoke was coming from? Was it coming from an LED or from the group of wires in the center leading to the driver?

Firemedic
Firemedic's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 01/04/2019 - 20:39
Posts: 102
Location: Alabama

Tried to configure nichia to go as low as xpl, but it will not. On reds and browns is where this nichia pops. But the xpl really puts out this highest highs and lowest lows with a decent color tint

wolfstyle
Offline
Last seen: 21 hours 27 min ago
Joined: 06/19/2015 - 11:31
Posts: 110
Location: Ohio

Under close examination I saw two extremely small black/ brown spots on one of the LEDs. Got a qtip and alcohol and cleaned them all and was able to remove those spots. Fired it back up and into Turbo and one little wisp of smoke then nothing else. Tried a couple more times and no more smoke. The alcohol also cleaned the optic. Guess a dirty LED was the cause.

Thank for the tip.

Cereal_killer
Cereal_killer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 months 1 week ago
Joined: 07/22/2013 - 13:10
Posts: 4005
Location: Ohio

How is the light able to keep the MCU controlled switch led’s on while turning the TIR AUX LED’s off? I’d guess in the low AUX LED mode there isn’t enough voltage to switch on the AUX board but there is enough to light the two directly controlled switch led’s? AFAIK they’re on the same circuit with no mechanism to actually control them independently.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

contactcr
Online
Last seen: 13 min 38 sec ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 2955
Location: US

2 are not wired to mcu.

SKV89
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 54 min ago
Joined: 12/10/2017 - 12:46
Posts: 3835
Location: US

Here are a few more measurements of three more E07 using Samsung 30T.

E07 SST-20 4000k, emitters swapped by Texas_Ace (different batch of SST-20): 4,845 lumens
E07 SST-20 4000k: 4,888 lumens
E07 XP-L HI 4000k v2 5A, heavily used: 6,465 lumens

SKV89 wrote:
I took more measurements and here are the lumen results for 4 different E07:

E07 XP-L HI 6500kQSO VTC6A 6,681; 30T 6,983
E07 XP-L HI 5000kQSO VTC6A 6,551; Vapcell VTC6A 6,379; 30T 6,733; Vapcell 40T 6,810
E07 XP-L HI 5000kQSO VTC6A 6,586; Vapcell VTC6A 6,630; 30T 7,327; Vapcell 40T 7,017; QSO 40T 6,983; LG M50 5,353
E07 219B sw45k 9080 – Vapcell VTC6A 3,707; 30T 4,301 (quickly dropping); Vapcell 40T 3,741; NCR21700A button top 2,828; LG M50 3,233

For some reason, I cannot reproduce the 7,570 lumen measurement again. The unit I measured 7,570 now only makes 7,357 lumens. Not sure if the emitters already degraded from me constantly blasting turbo or is it due to some other reason. I’m surprised the XP-L HI v3 6500k unit is not as bright as one of the XP-L HI v2 5000k unit.

I think the 40T is the ideal battery for the XP-L HI version. For the 219B version, I would think the NCR21700A recessed top with 15A would be the best battery but I don’t have a charger that can charge the recessed top and the soldered button top version adds an incredible amount of resistance. Otherwise the LG M50 is not bad for the 219B. The 40T might be pushing it too hard in the long run.

Also I really like the look of this light. The knurling and the very deep and functional heat fins look great. Most of the weight is in the head of the light where it is needed most for heat sinking. Jack said he designed the final prototype with super thick 8mm shelf. I couldn’t measure it but with the optics removed, it seems the shelf is probably not that thick but without removing the mcpcb and driver I can’t say for sure. But it did look like Fireflies listened to our request to increase surface area and mass in the head for better heat sinking and dissipation.

Machining quality is not as good as the Emisar series but not too bad. The clear anodizing version is OMG beautiful and a must have for anyone’s collection. Now I’m patiently waiting for a copper version.

One suggested improvement is to find or make an optic with larger TIR cups for more focused beam. There’s too much wasted space between the cups. Otherwise, I think the size of this optic can fit 10 cups and emitters for an even more amazing flooder good for 10k real OTF lumens.

Overall, this is the best pocketable EDC I’ve seen to date. It is also BY FAR the brightest single cell production flashlight in the world. It is twice as bright as the previous record holder, which is the Emisar D4S.

Cereal_killer
Cereal_killer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 months 1 week ago
Joined: 07/22/2013 - 13:10
Posts: 4005
Location: Ohio
contactcr wrote:
2 are not wired to mcu.

Yes I realize 2 are on all the time but in lockout mode there is a aux LED setting which powers the MCU controlled switch LEDs (so all 4 switch led’s are on) yet the TIR LED’s are off.
How is this accomplished? Maybe that’s a Lexel question?

Edit I’ve answered my own question… The window in which the red led’s are on is so small its possible to totally miss it. What had happened was the voltage fell below the setpoint with the light running so when I shut it off and locked it out all AUX LED’s were being commanded on but the TIR boards voltage monitor was keeping them off so only the switch led’s (all 4 of them) were on.

Tl;Dr my battery was dead and I was over thinking it… Check the small things first!

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

dotBLF
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 21 hours ago
Joined: 04/19/2016 - 19:00
Posts: 77
Location: MA, USA

Does anyone know of a way to get just an aux emitter board, of say, yellow/ red aux LEDs? Is that something Neal would be able to sell (since he seems to be the only person with alternate options, but I’m also sorta assuming that’s just all pre-stocked…..

Thanks Smile

saypat
saypat's picture
Offline
Last seen: 22 hours 48 min ago
Joined: 07/13/2011 - 20:32
Posts: 3579
Location: Calif

[quote=SKV89]Here are a few more measurements of three more E07 using Samsung 30T.

E07 SST-20 4000k, emitters swapped by Texas_Ace (different batch of SST-20): 4,845 lumens
E07 SST-20 4000k: 4,888 lumens
E07 XP-L HI 4000k v2 5A, heavily used: 6,465 lumens

Is that cell safe with the SST-20 4000k emitter?

Firemedic
Firemedic's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 01/04/2019 - 20:39
Posts: 102
Location: Alabama

Neal told me he was just getting his lights from fireflies directly. I did see a post somewhere here for aux tir boards.

TheAuditor
Online
Last seen: 56 sec ago
Joined: 12/04/2017 - 06:33
Posts: 434
Location: United Kingdom

Firelight2 wrote:
TheAuditor wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
If you have the skills to do so, it’d probably be a good idea to pull out the MCPCB, file it down a bit, and put it back in with better thermal contact. Failing that, it’d probably be a good idea to limit the use of turbo, at least with the high-CRI emitters.

It sounds like the MCPCB is so thick that it can still handle heat reasonably well even with the air gap though… and I think the heat transfers to the driver through the power wires, so the driver activates turbo step-down early enough to generally keep things safe.

So, basically, just keep an eye out for a blue shift, and throttle it back hard if that ever happens. Or if you can, open it up to fix things. Be warned though, some of the work involved in that is somewhat delicate. It’s probably not a good first project, but someone with experience should be able to handle it pretty easily.

Oh well, sounds like it is one for the box of shame, where all the broken things go to die Smile
I have plenty of reliable flashlights and won’t miss it.


Or you can just use the light and ignore the “under the hood” issues. It will probably still work fine even without opening it up.

As well as the thermal path issue mine also makes loud cracking sounds. I don’t trust it and therefore won’t use it.

Bonum commune communitatis.

Yarp.

klrman
klrman's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 3 days ago
Joined: 11/07/2016 - 22:44
Posts: 2615
Location: Canada

TheAuditor wrote:
As well as the thermal path issue mine also makes loud cracking sounds. I don't trust it and therefore won't use it.

 

Does it still make the loud cracking sounds when the battery is removed?  I have a mateminco that does that with the batteries removed after I have had it turned on for awhile.

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 33 sec ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 3985
Location: California

TheAuditor wrote:
As well as the thermal path issue mine also makes loud cracking sounds. I don’t trust it and therefore won’t use it.
My first E01 also made the cracking sounds.

They went away completely when I redid the thermal paste under the star. I think it’s just air expansion in the gap under the star.

Basically, the cracking sounds are harmless. They’re disconcerting, but pose zero danger and do not affect the function of the light.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 25 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10310
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
TheAuditor wrote:
Oh well, sounds like it is one for the box of shame, where all the broken things go to die Smile I have plenty of reliable flashlights and won’t miss it.

That’s an oddly strong reaction. It still generally works fine, and several people have done extensive runtime testing on turbo with no issues, even with the air gap issue. It’s unlikely to actually have any functional issues, even if some of the insides may not be perfect.

I just don’t really understand putting something in the trash because of minor imperfections. Maybe it’s not 100%, maybe it’s 90% or 95% instead… but that’s a long way from zero. Give it a 50E cell to make the air gap irrelevant, and enjoy the extra runtime.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 25 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10310
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
Cereal_killer wrote:
How is the light able to keep the MCU controlled switch led’s on while turning the TIR AUX LED’s off? I’d guess in the low AUX LED mode there isn’t enough voltage to switch on the AUX board but there is enough to light the two directly controlled switch led’s? AFAIK they’re on the same circuit with no mechanism to actually control them independently.

That is actually possible, and in the first version I sent to Fireflies I tried to convince them to include that mode… but they thought it would be confusing and requested a version without the “low” mode instead. So it’s off/on/blinking only.

Flashaholics
Flashaholics's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 04/05/2017 - 12:46
Posts: 829
Location: Wakefield

My XPL 6500k is still putting out 7000ish lumens but my ROT66 219B has dropped to 2700, I’ve put some more foam in the tailcap, like someone suggested, and it’s back up to 4500ish.

My 4K Lumen Whore Reviews (MS18, X70, MS12, DX80, X80-GT, X45vn etc) - https://www.youtube.com/c/FLASHAHOLICS_GB

TheAuditor
Online
Last seen: 56 sec ago
Joined: 12/04/2017 - 06:33
Posts: 434
Location: United Kingdom
ToyKeeper wrote:
TheAuditor wrote:
Oh well, sounds like it is one for the box of shame, where all the broken things go to die Smile I have plenty of reliable flashlights and won’t miss it.

That’s an oddly strong reaction. It still generally works fine, and several people have done extensive runtime testing on turbo with no issues, even with the air gap issue. It’s unlikely to actually have any functional issues, even if some of the insides may not be perfect.

I just don’t really understand putting something in the trash because of minor imperfections. Maybe it’s not 100%, maybe it’s 90% or 95% instead… but that’s a long way from zero. Give it a 50E cell to make the air gap irrelevant, and enjoy the extra runtime.

Oh it won’t go in the trash, just in the box where I keep all the kit that is either outdated, or that is useable but with an element of risk. I did use 50E’s with it after the late warning about using 30 and 40T’s. I think other people have expressed their disatisfaction with the product more eloquently than me in this thread. I shall just attempt to get a refund from BG. Its no biggie, its just the risk of buying new products from new companies at a reasonable discount Smile

Bonum commune communitatis.

Yarp.

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 15 min 57 sec ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 12912
Location: LI NY

Flashaholics wrote:
My XPL 6500k is still putting out 7000ish lumens but my ROT66 219B has dropped to 2700, I've put some more foam in the tailcap, like someone suggested, and it's back up to 4500ish.

Hhmm, foam in the tailcap? Ohhh - to keep the carrier compressed and tight against the front end contact - makes sense from that perspective. I bypassed the driver spring, but you could also try some light coating of NO-OX-ID on the contact surfaces - spring and ground aluminum rings. The foam though works, sounds like, but the bypass and conductive grease helps also in the long term.

dotBLF
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 21 hours ago
Joined: 04/19/2016 - 19:00
Posts: 77
Location: MA, USA

Thanks Firemedic, I’ll keep hunting!

Pages