Tried to configure nichia to go as low as xpl, but it will not. On reds and browns is where this nichia pops. But the xpl really puts out this highest highs and lowest lows with a decent color tint
Under close examination I saw two extremely small black/ brown spots on one of the LEDs. Got a qtip and alcohol and cleaned them all and was able to remove those spots. Fired it back up and into Turbo and one little wisp of smoke then nothing else. Tried a couple more times and no more smoke. The alcohol also cleaned the optic. Guess a dirty LED was the cause.
How is the light able to keep the MCU controlled switch led’s on while turning the TIR AUX LED’s off? I’d guess in the low AUX LED mode there isn’t enough voltage to switch on the AUX board but there is enough to light the two directly controlled switch led’s? AFAIK they’re on the same circuit with no mechanism to actually control them independently.
Yes I realize 2 are on all the time but in lockout mode there is a aux LED setting which powers the MCU controlled switch LEDs (so all 4 switch led’s are on) yet the TIR LED’s are off.
How is this accomplished? Maybe that’s a Lexel question?
Edit I’ve answered my own question… The window in which the red led’s are on is so small its possible to totally miss it. What had happened was the voltage fell below the setpoint with the light running so when I shut it off and locked it out all AUX LED’s were being commanded on but the TIR boards voltage monitor was keeping them off so only the switch led’s (all 4 of them) were on.
Tl;Dr my battery was dead and I was over thinking it… Check the small things first!
Does anyone know of a way to get just an aux emitter board, of say, yellow/ red aux LEDs? Is that something Neal would be able to sell (since he seems to be the only person with alternate options, but I’m also sorta assuming that’s just all pre-stocked……
Does it still make the loud cracking sounds when the battery is removed? I have a mateminco that does that with the batteries removed after I have had it turned on for awhile.
That’s an oddly strong reaction. It still generally works fine, and several people have done extensive runtime testing on turbo with no issues, even with the air gap issue. It’s unlikely to actually have any functional issues, even if some of the insides may not be perfect.
I just don’t really understand putting something in the trash because of minor imperfections. Maybe it’s not 100, maybe it’s 90 or 95% instead… but that’s a long way from zero. Give it a 50E cell to make the air gap irrelevant, and enjoy the extra runtime.
That is actually possible, and in the first version I sent to Fireflies I tried to convince them to include that mode… but they thought it would be confusing and requested a version without the “low” mode instead. So it’s off/on/blinking only.
My XPL 6500k is still putting out 7000ish lumens but my ROT66 219B has dropped to 2700, I’ve put some more foam in the tailcap, like someone suggested, and it’s back up to 4500ish.
Oh it won’t go in the trash, just in the box where I keep all the kit that is either outdated, or that is useable but with an element of risk. I did use 50E’s with it after the late warning about using 30 and 40T’s. I think other people have expressed their disatisfaction with the product more eloquently than me in this thread. I shall just attempt to get a refund from BG. Its no biggie, its just the risk of buying new products from new companies at a reasonable discount
Hhmm, foam in the tailcap? Ohhh - to keep the carrier compressed and tight against the front end contact - makes sense from that perspective. I bypassed the driver spring, but you could also try some light coating of NO-OX-ID on the contact surfaces - spring and ground aluminum rings. The foam though works, sounds like, but the bypass and conductive grease helps also in the long term.