Did you manage to level the driver so the signal tube sits properly or still at an angle?
If I understand that correctly - that’s a lot of insulation. Your LEDs will unsolder before it burns you on Turbo. It may become burning hot on a lower level though.
https://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=70W%2F(0.5W%2Fm+K+)*1mm%2F675mm%5E2
1 mm of Titanium should be better…though actually a bit thin.
Ish. Not very well though. One can only do so much with a dremel. And to make things fit a little better I filed down the edges of the driver as far as they can go without making it not work any more, so there’s only a hair width of ground ring left. It’s not ideal.
In any case, my proto4 is now modified and no longer represents what to expect from a stock light. After CNY, I hope Lumintop will have some good news for us.
Maybe the formulas aren’t the best way to judge it then.
When I first made the light I had a copper core & titanium outer shell but felt it was too much power not getting distributed through the metal, head area around the pill was scorching hot on turbo & rapid stepdown but the light was relatively cool elsewhere.
So I changed the shell to all copper but then the whole thing got too hot to handle while having a decent temp threshold (60°) 
Then I tried the additional CF sleeve which made holding the light bearable though it still gets very hot.
Yes, lots of people looking forward to this one becoming available.
Remember you can send any of these protos to me to try to fix if you like :innocent:
That’s perfectly possible.
Please put me down for one LH351D.
Very “Metroid”-esque.
That looks like it’s designed to fit a 42mm HEKLA-SOCKET.
The FW3A is 25mm. How would this fit?
That’s for someone with a 3D printer or an x-acto knife and some creativity to figure out. I’m not super serious with this suggestion but it does interest me, and since it’s from a real optics manufacturer I suspect it would diffuse better and have less impact on the tint of the beam than some of the other options I have seen.
Please put me down for one of each emitter with aluminum body.
And I would also be intersted in a single-emitter version.
Thanks.
Is the cast iron version ready to order yet? FW3I
The real question is would you season the cast iron or let it tarnish?
Season it. Running it on turbo until just below the smoke point of the oil and holding it there forms a durable protective coating as the oil soaks into the pores of the cast iron and polymerizes. I do it with all of my cast iron lights.
I just put mine in turbo and cook bacon on them to season them
Yum, bacon wrapped fw3i
I got my special order FW3D #1 yesterday! A Devin Thomas Damascus / Stainless Raindrop pattern . It is truly a work of art.
My special FW3D #2 should be ready to pick up next week. It is gonna be a Brad Vice (Alabama Damascus) made from a billet of ’Alabama Buckshot Damascus’.
Pictures to follow if I can just figure out how to capture the images in that dream I just had. 
Hello Teacher,
I’ve been having the same Dream about the FW3D- Raindrop and Alabama Buckshot Damascus Too! That is some Beautifully Crafted Damascus and it Really would make a Fine Looking FW3D Flashlight for Sure! Maybe even make One extra with 4 straight Flutes from the Tail Up to 1/8” from where the head or Optic seats and turn 3 small rings to Dispurse any Heat from the Front End? Etch it and that would be Absolutely Beautiful, just a Little Different then the Original Sleek Damascus Version of the Elegant FW3A Original I Dream of at least twice a week.
I sure look forward to getting That Sleek light in my hands when I am Awake, and not just Dreaming 