Thanks, jetbeam… but I’ve already purchased it for a bit cheaper elsewhere.
That's great! Thanks for supporting Jetbeam. Let me know if you need a discount code for any other flashlight. I have one to spare.
hello, yes. Please let us know, we will try to improve it in the future. thanks
I suggest you leave the ramping part of the dial smooth, like the original RRT-01, which only has detents for Off and Maximum.
I suggest no detents after on, except Yes a detente at Off, but no other detentes, not even for Masimum
and get rid of the 9 hash marks in the ramping track of the new RRT-01… just give us a totally smooth track after the light turns ON.
That is why I like the original RRT-01, the ramping is on a smooth track, and that is why I do not like the Eye10, there are 9 detentes in the ramping track.
I also suggest you offer a version with High CRI, but please do not use an XP-G3 for that… Nichia 219b would be my first pick… especially the 4500k 9080 version (I can dream 
)
hello, Jon. thanks for your advice. Have forward it to the engineer about the detents. The detents may make the light more sense of aesthetics? 1-2 detents may indicate the mode setting. What others say?
As for the High CRI, we will check the various items and cost.
Thanks
No detents except for off and strobe, just make the control ring smooth like the original.
Detent at off only.
Hi CRI
Good to hear that Jetbeam is listening.
+1 :+1:
Only one detent please.
with all due respect, my opinion is strobe does not need a detente, it works as a dimmable strobe
it can be turned on without even going to maximum
same for maximum, no detente needed
only 1 detente at off please
I can live with a detente at maximum if I must, but please, no notches, no detentes in the ramping dial
detentes do not produce consistent brightness each time, so they are useless, and feel BAD, and prevent fine tuning the brightness to user preference
detente (rough spot, or hash mark) in the ON portion of the dial = BAD Detente
detente only in the OFF position = Good Detente
I’d buy one but not at these prices.
[quote=jon_slider]
You have to hit max twice on this new one to get to strobe.
+1, I’ll just use my 20 buck V11R for now.
[quote=toddcshoe]
My Eye10 has the same feature.
it turns out that it works without actually hitting maximum, also with down up, down up
iow, it is the quick double, down then up, ramping (from ON), that triggers strobe, not the fact that it hits maximum.
but yes, hitting maximum twice also does turn on strobe
regardless of hitting maximum or not, to turn on strobe, no detente is needed on Maximum, and the strobe, once triggered can be dimmed, and strobe will continue, even when not on maximum
You can get it cheaper than advertised. Make an offer on HKEquipments Ebay ad. You can get a better price. The price I paid was fair in my opinion. Of course everyone has their own opinion of a fair price.
Here is a video of my Eye10, switching between just 2 detents… it is wrong, in so many ways, all I can say is NO Detents!
I never did this with my eye10, but concluded it probably wouldn’t be too hard to do: Try filling in the detents you don’t like with super-glue gel or thermal epoxy.
filling in the detents is only half the problem
it is bad that from one detent to the next the light goes from 11 lumens to 92 lumens (81 lumen gap between detentes is a 736% increase)
the amount of drift, in other words, the continuing change in lumens, after I stop turning the dial, is to me an even more Major NO!
to be clear, even if the dial was smooth, why would I want a light that changes by itself, from 92 to 143 lumens (51 lumens increase is a 55% increase), without touching the dial
or the reverse, why would a want a light, that changes by itself, from over 21 lumens, and adjusts itself to 11 lumens? (10 lumen decrease is 48% decrease)
No Way Jose!
Hm. Never noticed any problems like that with my RRT-01 (old version), TCR-01, or EYE-10
A buddy of mine brought me over a flashlight this evening, his father gave it to him and I had already given him a bunch of lights so, he passed it on to me. A Eagletac D25AAA, I had never had one, not really into AAA lights so I just looked it up to see what it was. I saw there were two versions of it, a xp-g3 version and a nichia 219b version. Well sure enough it was the nichia. So out with the Samsung emitter and in with the Nichia. EagleTac’s website says it is a 219B SW45 D220 4500K CRI-92 emitter. Don’t know if that is all true but I can tell you the tint seems dead on and it looks quite lovely in the RRT01. That emitter just made the light even more enjoyable that it already was.