WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

Detent at off only.
Hi CRI
Good to hear that Jetbeam is listening.

+1 :+1:

Only one detent please.

with all due respect, my opinion is strobe does not need a detente, it works as a dimmable strobe
it can be turned on without even going to maximum

same for maximum, no detente needed

only 1 detente at off please

I can live with a detente at maximum if I must, but please, no notches, no detentes in the ramping dial

detentes do not produce consistent brightness each time, so they are useless, and feel BAD, and prevent fine tuning the brightness to user preference

detente (rough spot, or hash mark) in the ON portion of the dial = BAD Detente
detente only in the OFF position = Good Detente

I’d buy one but not at these prices.

[quote=jon_slider]

You have to hit max twice on this new one to get to strobe.

+1, I’ll just use my 20 buck V11R for now.

[quote=toddcshoe]

My Eye10 has the same feature.
it turns out that it works without actually hitting maximum, also with down up, down up

iow, it is the quick double, down then up, ramping (from ON), that triggers strobe, not the fact that it hits maximum.
but yes, hitting maximum twice also does turn on strobe

regardless of hitting maximum or not, to turn on strobe, no detente is needed on Maximum, and the strobe, once triggered can be dimmed, and strobe will continue, even when not on maximum

You can get it cheaper than advertised. Make an offer on HKEquipments Ebay ad. You can get a better price. The price I paid was fair in my opinion. Of course everyone has their own opinion of a fair price.

Here is a video of my Eye10, switching between just 2 detents… it is wrong, in so many ways, all I can say is NO Detents!

I never did this with my eye10, but concluded it probably wouldn’t be too hard to do: Try filling in the detents you don’t like with super-glue gel or thermal epoxy.

filling in the detents is only half the problem
it is bad that from one detent to the next the light goes from 11 lumens to 92 lumens (81 lumen gap between detentes is a 736% increase)

the amount of drift, in other words, the continuing change in lumens, after I stop turning the dial, is to me an even more Major NO!

to be clear, even if the dial was smooth, why would I want a light that changes by itself, from 92 to 143 lumens (51 lumens increase is a 55% increase), without touching the dial

or the reverse, why would a want a light, that changes by itself, from over 21 lumens, and adjusts itself to 11 lumens? (10 lumen decrease is 48% decrease)

No Way Jose!

Hm. Never noticed any problems like that with my RRT-01 (old version), TCR-01, or EYE-10

A buddy of mine brought me over a flashlight this evening, his father gave it to him and I had already given him a bunch of lights so, he passed it on to me. A Eagletac D25AAA, I had never had one, not really into AAA lights so I just looked it up to see what it was. I saw there were two versions of it, a xp-g3 version and a nichia 219b version. Well sure enough it was the nichia. So out with the Samsung emitter and in with the Nichia. EagleTac’s website says it is a 219B SW45 D220 4500K CRI-92 emitter. Don’t know if that is all true but I can tell you the tint seems dead on and it looks quite lovely in the RRT01. That emitter just made the light even more enjoyable that it already was.

I hope I don’t derail the thread here, I just got to ask though. Toddcshoe have you ever seen one of these.
The absolute best tint I have ever seen come out of a led but I can’t seem to locate any now. Just wondering how that 219B compares to the 219A, if you could compare.

No sir, I don’t believe I have. I would like to if anyone ever finds a secret stash of them somewhere. Is there a easy way to find out what other lights these may have been put in? I will add the V10R to my saved searches on Ebay hoping for one to pop up with that Nichia in it. Any other lights I should include?

Nevermind. I never read the whole thing and realized that the V10R didn’t actually come with that emitter. All I will end up getting is XM-L V10R emails from Ebay. :person_facepalming:

I love my N219b 4500k LEDs, I have one in my RRT-01 prior model.

Its my favorite LED.
Texas Ace hooked me up with one for my Utorch S1 Mini,
Clemence also, and several other people, such as
Bob_McBob, have been sourcing N219b 4500k 9080’s… but all the while I keep hearing they are used up. Then
Firefly loads up a bunch of them, which leaves me thinking theres still stashes of them somewhere.

I hope you find some, its a special LED… not too warm, not too cool… pretty much a grail for me… Some are more pink than others…

The V10r is still a very nice host, if you like Ti… but its 16340 not 18350
I would be even more tempted by TCR-1 or Eye10 TiC, since they have the 18350 body and smooth ramp, like the older RRT-01
…model soup… I hope I got my alphabits right

I have just finished reading this thread, thanks to everyone for contributing such detailed info. I ended up with a JetBeam inadvertently via a pawn shop purchase of a tool box assortment. The light was amongst a few Streamlight Stingers that I wanted. I got the JetBeam home and cleaned it up. It is missing it’s battery spring. I’ve been using a aluminum foil spacer. I really like this light. Could someone who owns the RRT-01 please measure the springs height for me?

Congrats!
You got one of the RRT-01 with the long clip, aka first run.
I have an RRT-01 with the short clip, aka second run.
Same bodies and dials on both afaik…
there may be a difference in reflector, mine is orange peel, I think some were smooth.

The spring in mine seems to be 8mm tall.

I say seems because I did not pull it out, I measured from the top of the spring to the lip of the battery tube, and got 3cm.

Then I stuck a knife blade down the side of the tube, and marked the lip of the tube. The knife blade seems to have been 3.8mm into the body tube.

Your light works with 16340 protected cells… I like the ones Olight makes with the USB charging port:
https://www.batteryjunction.com/olight-rechargeable-16340-lithium-ion-battery.html

There is no overdischarge protection built into the light. It will work with some 18350, unprotected, so you need to monitor battery voltage yourself… The unprotected Keepower IMR 750mAh does not work in the RRT-01, the button top is too wide and is blocked by the reverse polarity ring in the head.

However, the unprotected 1200mAh Keepower IMR Works!
this is the one Im using:

The protected versions of those batteries are too long, I tried, the RRT-01 head will not reach the threads. You can also use CR123 Primary Lithium.

jon_slider, Thank you! Thanks for the battery info as well. Order placed for the 18350 cells. The Keepower mah capacity comes very close to a CR123 non-rechargeable battery in comparison. My bench meter recorded a minuscule current draw while the ring is in the “off ” position. Suprised me at first, but found a older online article that stated it is a normal condition and slightly under a normal consmption for this light. I really am enjoying the low level outputs of this flashlight. Was a headlamp version of this flashlight ever produced?