I was looking at some “commercial” drivers last night and didn’t really see anything all that interesting. I did see some buck drivers from MeanWell but no boost….
Have you seen this?
It’s a monster and not too expensive so it probably actually works.
I had an idea for heatsinking on the battle lantern but after looking at some heat sink performance data, I don’t think it will afterall. Passively dissipating ~100w is hard.
On the other hand, there are some twin radiator heatsinks designed for ThreadRipper TR4 and EPYC that look interesting but they’re also ~$50-75 and HUGE.
The Dell T3610 heatsinks look like a decent option for a hand cannon as they appear to have a good bolt pattern/mounting plate, cheap, available, relatively compact and the battery pack could probably be mounted to the other side of the fan shroud.
I don’t even care much how it cools - it LOOKS freakin’ cool! NOFAN’s claims about the first fanless PC system though are dubious - they’ve been making fanless computers seemingly forever…
Grote tried to tell me that their PAR36 units are well engineered and use proprietary high performance LEDs that operates at 130lm and 3watts. Oh and of course they’re really reasonably priced at ~$100 per unit. I’m guessing they’re using some Luxeon 3’s or something positively ancient.
I found a few youtube reviews of the NoFan heatsinks. Seems they do actually work but they’re HUUUGE. They actually made a CR-100 (100w class) unit and it looks positively massive.
I honestly think my best option for the Battle Lantern is to use the giant Cree and just under-drive it at maybe 25w.
On the other hand, I still want to build the hand cannon that can do the full 3.6A at 36v.
Why limit ourselves? Mouser seems to have gotten in some new Luminus COBs that are 95CRI, and capable of 24K lumens… just need that 300W boost driver…
As to the Cree COB - I found that it runs just fine with the Stratus LED driver and 2s 5000mAh LiPo with the dimmer pot cranked all the way. I don’t think I even need the fan on for it. Never thought to measure the voltage at the LED.
I’ve been thinking about maybe making the “hand cannon” like an old school dry cell lantern except just put a strap on a carbon plate or something and then I can strap whatever LiPo I have with me to it. Then I could use either a 6s3300 or a 6s22k or one of my 7s4p li-ion packs.
Got any links to the new Luminus COBs?
I think I’m going to order some of these 82mm LEDIL ANGELINA reflectors. Somehow I had not previously noticed their dimensions and they’re smaller than I previously thought which might work well for the battle lantern.
RapidLED has two of them at what seem to be good prices and they have the mounting hardware.
I suspect the 66deg will be my favorite as my other favorite floody light has a ~80 degree beam and that seems to work well. Any wider than that and you can easily accidentally flash yourself.
I’m also going to get a LDH-45A-1050 and maybe a LDH-45B-1050 as the battle lantern definitely won’t be able to handle anything more powerful and it’ll still make ~7000 lumens which ought to be pretty fun considering that stock, I think it’s something like a 9w incandescent.
7000 is a LOT… I installed an LDH-45A-1050 in a cheapo outdoor 50W spotlight someone game me that had a blown driver. This actually fit the bill nicely, and now I have a nice portable outdoor work light. Just need to make a yoke for it so I can use it with my tripod.
You can get one without the casing from DigiKey and save about $10 or so, which is what I did.
Yeah, these higher voltages are not the easiest to deal with for portable stuff. Might have to look into e-bike batteries. We do have a couple e-Go yard tools at home - a lawn mower and line trimmer - that use 56V batteries.
Totally unobtainium but Cree CMT2890 22mm diameter die, 5000k, 80cri and 12472lm (51v 1.6A) with Cree specified 90% lumen overdrive for ~24000lm. That’s the LED to stuff in a BLF GT reflector.