not sure if they are the same now, mine was 3-4 year ago, looks the same though, mine even has a great neutral white color light and a nice pattern
really!
How about a sliding or rotating cover to protect the power button?
Like the threaded ring that Zanflare uses to cover its USB port.
Make it so closing the cover turns the light off ……
The lock out method works just fine. The only twisty I ever really carried was the Jetbeam AA light. Jet something, I always get them mixed up. It came on more than a few times loose in my pocket and just a few times clipped on my pocket. Not that big of a deal really. I noticed it before it was able to drain the cell down too terribly. Then I started carrying mostly tail clicky lights and now I’m back to carrying mostly side switch lights. Nicely recessed switches so I have never had one of those come on. I have had a Tip and a Tini that come on way too easy in my pocket on a keychain. Love them both, but they are always dead.
I used the Nitefox K3 (twisty) for a while in the keychain and was quite good!
It was only replaced because the RovyVon Auroras are less big and are lighter than it, and also because of the side switch, that is preferable in some situations.
Thanks for everyone’s recommendations on twistys - I don’t normally prefer one, but I do understand that they generally allow for a smaller overall size, so I might consider that route.
Be careful there. Lots of brands call their cells RCR123A, some are 3.7v and some are 3.0v. Example a Olight RCR123A isn’t the same as a Tenergy RCR123A. The Olight is a 3.7v cell and the Tenegry is a 3.0v cell, and they all are of the size of 16340.
I exclusively carry 16340/3.6v/3.7v lights, so I’m well versed in the nomenclature of the specifically different cells.
3.0v and 3.2v cells are more correctly referred to as RCR123s, which are really an LiFEPO4 chemistry. The older and more archaic designators: ICR/IMR, for 3.6v/3.7v lithium cells—LiCo, or LiMn cells, are a different animal entirely.
We always have to look at what a particular driver supports, to know what cell a light can take.
In this case, FastTech states that the driver of the light in question only supports 3.0v, so that’s a CR123A or an RCR123 3.0v/3.2v cell, since CR123As come out of their packs at about 3.25v.
People tend to conflate the two/three chemistries as being equals, which they are not.
I am actually completely agreeing with you. I was just stating that a lot of times the ads state a cell as RCR123A whether it’s a 3.0 volt cell or a 3.7 volt cell. Reading the specs usually clear things up and I kind of assumed you knew the difference but I was worried that someone would inadvertently order the wrong cell if they had a uber sensitive driver in the light.