And 50V DC isn’t really dangerous with dry skin.
24V DC on the tongue hurts a lot though.
The Bridgelux seems to have some headroom as it can be driven to 4.2A.
DC scares me far more than AC since DC will lock up your muscles and just fry you.
Yeah, lipos will do 2000-3000A for a millisecond or two and make connectors not exist anymore. I mainly use AS150s as they last forever and you can re-use them. Do you fly r/c? I started flying helis back around 2007 and these days you could say I’m a “drone engineer”.
I was looking at the 5000k 80cri since that’s good enough light for me. Still apples to apples, they’re just higher color temp apples.
If you only want 9k lumens, a 5000k 80cri CXB3590 will do that at 50w and 182lm/w
About 15 years ago I was involved in a car wash installation - my friend and I did the concrete, and installed the stainless steel wall panels and interior trim. Got the job from an electrician friend. He was hooking up the main panel, which was something like 480V, 3-phase. He accidentally grounded the screwdriver. I saw the entire shank basically sublimate before our eyes. Pretty scary stuff!
My brother and I fly used to be into drones; but it’s a lot easier to just buy them now than build one and pray it doesn’t come down in a fiery crash. DJI makes drones far better than my brother and I so that’s what we fly now. Cheaper than the trial-and-error approach. So have a bunch of these LiPos laying around and I nurse them like pet rocks, so might as well put them to use.
80CRI is good enough for me; but I do normally prefer a whiter white.
I don’t think I’ll be satisfied with only 9000 lumens however.
Have you seen this liquid cooled COB project?
Seen that for a while now… Not sure if I want to go the liquid cooled route, but not ruling it out.
The thing is, it may use 1600W of power, but it’s using inefficient low binned Chinese COBs that can only output 6000 lumens at 100W, and it’s not taking into consideration the inefficiency of using such a lens design vs a reflector/large TIR.
Meaning, rather than outputting 160k lumens, it’s outputting 96 000 lumens at most with perfect optics.
I think it’s cooler to have a single high-power COB cranked to the max in a portable format than 16 underperforming cheap COBs other than to pose. Now, if each one was individually addressable with something like Raspberry Pi, and he could do light patterns/individual dimming, THAT would have been cool.
Heh. I hate DJI. My latest aircraft outperforms almost everything else out there but it isn’t cheap… or small.
A friend of mine flies a heli I designed for him and he gets work others can’t because he doesn’t have a DJI. It also doesn’t hurt that he flies with an A7R and a Black Magic Cinema 4k.
The focus of the video really was the water cooling solution for the heat… 
Yeah, I just don’t have the time I used to for making a frame, buying all the components, testing and assembling, testing some more, etc. I’m not the biggest DJI fan but I spend more time now flying than at my bench. One day I’ll get back into it.
Also, being within 20 miles from four airports, one international, means I have to travel far to fly a big drone. On the contrary, I send my Mavic Pro on stealth missions quite regularly LOLOL… now if only it could lift my COB cannon…
Yeah it remains an option, but for me with a single COB it’s probably overkill. Heck even with his setup, he could have taken four heatsink extrusions and two large fans, and it’d probably cooled better. Also just because he puts 16 100W COB LED modules, doesn’t mean he’s pulling 1600W of power. Judging from the video alone, my AceBeam X80 looks just as bright, at least for 1 minute, and I can hold it easily with one hand. Now if I could just install water-cooling on that!
Just saying that radiator does not look like it would dissipate all that heat for too long before his cooling system gets overwhelmed.
I’m trying to find someone to help design a more powerful driver and also looking into possibly designing it myself.
On the other hand, there are a lot of cheap “1800w” boost drivers out there from china that could be used if you didn’t want adjustable output or other “features”. I may get one just to play with since I don’t really have any other way to test things portably. I also feel better getting something “rated” for far more than I need given the nature of boost electronics and marketing “ratings”.
Yeah, there’s no way that tiny little radiator would keep 1600w cool. He’s mainly using the thermal mass of the water and the radiator probably just slowly cools it back down after a short run.
I found a cheap 900W boost driver to screw around with as well. I just need more battery!
The white plastic LEDiL “reflector” isn’t much of a reflector as a lot of light actually punches through the plastic.
More of a “diffuser…”
LOL at 2A (11k lm OTF) with the F13402 ANGELINA-W it’s brighter than the street light outside. I really need a way to play with this thing running off batteries. I just moved my power supply to the garage and pointed it out the door. 
There are a few gaps in the Ideal clamp parts that the reflector clips into which I find annoying.
The giant pin heatsink I got from RapidLEDs is actually bigger than the inside of the battle lantern.
I wouldn’t mind a slightly tighter beam. I need to get an F13401_ANGELINA-M “30degree” since with the big CXB3590 it will actually produce a 54degree beam which I think will yield a bit more margin on me not blinding my wife by accident.
I found the Stratus LED reflector does a good job of making a slightly tighter beam… but it’s not exactly plug and play with the 3590
IIRC, I don’t have room for the Stratus LED reflector in the Battle Lantern.
For the CMA3090, the LEDiL Molly series is interesting. Middle of the road optical efficiency (86-89%) but honestly, nice beam profiles and pretty darn compact.