I’m trying to find someone to help design a more powerful driver and also looking into possibly designing it myself.
On the other hand, there are a lot of cheap “1800w” boost drivers out there from china that could be used if you didn’t want adjustable output or other “features”. I may get one just to play with since I don’t really have any other way to test things portably. I also feel better getting something “rated” for far more than I need given the nature of boost electronics and marketing “ratings”.
Yeah, there’s no way that tiny little radiator would keep 1600w cool. He’s mainly using the thermal mass of the water and the radiator probably just slowly cools it back down after a short run.
LOL at 2A (11k lm OTF) with the F13402 ANGELINA-W it’s brighter than the street light outside. I really need a way to play with this thing running off batteries. I just moved my power supply to the garage and pointed it out the door.
There are a few gaps in the Ideal clamp parts that the reflector clips into which I find annoying.
The giant pin heatsink I got from RapidLEDs is actually bigger than the inside of the battle lantern.
I wouldn’t mind a slightly tighter beam. I need to get an F13401_ANGELINA-M “30degree” since with the big CXB3590 it will actually produce a 54degree beam which I think will yield a bit more margin on me not blinding my wife by accident.
IIRC, I don’t have room for the Stratus LED reflector in the Battle Lantern.
For the CMA3090, the LEDiL Molly series is interesting. Middle of the road optical efficiency (86-89%) but honestly, nice beam profiles and pretty darn compact.
Looks like I was wrong about Bridgelux VeroSE. Their specs are all over the place depending on which exact LED you’re looking at. I found one that I’m working up a spreadsheet for…
That is cool… But I’m having a hard time getiing 160W with batteries!!! For a wired light however that seems pretty good.
What I find amazing is how tight the beam can supposedly be with some COBs. Yeah with some of the larger comes it would seem they’d make a donut hole at enough distance. Or more likely that using the base, the COB is not optimally focused with the reflector.
Well, I’d like the boost converter to run somewhat efficiently, and I don’t know if I want to spend any more cash for decent 18650s… Especially when I have all these LiPos sitting around from my DIY drone days (which really was not that long ago hehehe.) Maybe not too bad for a 36V COB, but for 48V @ 3.6A I’m not so sure how efficient the boost converter will be working then - I could be wrong. The other thing is capacity - I have 5200mAh, 7500mAh LiPos already. I just don’t want to spend too much more than necessary on this project, so trying to work with what I have. I also don’t want to kill my good 18650s - I save those for my flashlights. These could be handheld, but I would consider them to me more of a “portable outdoor lighting solution” that I can run on max for more than a few minutes. Unless you happen to know of an LED boost driver that will work. I have a TaskLED HyperBoost, and I’ve seen Matt VoB light a 3590 in a GT with it, but he used 8 18650s in series by modding the carriers from parallel to series.
That’s pretty darn cool if I’m reading this right.
I need to figure out how to post images here. I got a mechanical model for the LEDiL Angelina reflectors so I’ve been plugging away at drawing the required custom components.
I have problems too… I try the “insert image” tool above the comments box, put the URL in, and nothing shows up. So I’ve just been linking to my Google Photos (my Flickr account is almost full.)
I’m pretty curious to see if their 10deg. FWHM claims are true, but if it’s anywhere near 20-30deg. I’ll be a happy camper. Would like to see your drawings if you can link them.