FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

Lest we forget what is really important, at this particular time; as we ‘patiently’ wait for the FW3A to be born, :wink:
I give you…… THE LIST !!!

UPDATE

Model List for the FW3_ Series flashlight. *Wish List that is*.
.
The LIST

FW3AC = Apple Coral
FW3Ba = Bakelite
FW3Be = Beryllium
FW3BC = Beryllium copper
FW3BF = Buckyfiber
FW3Bi = Bismuth
FW3BR = Brass
FW3BZ = Bronze
FW3C = Copper
FW3Ca = Catalin
FW3CA = Carbide
FW3CC = Cool Colors (choice of: green, red, blue, purple, orange, black, & gray)
FW3CE = Ceramic
FW3CF = Carbon Fiber
FW3CG = Clear Glass
FW3CO = Cobalt
FW3Cr = Crystal
FW3CR = Chromium
FW3D = Damascus
FW3Di = Diamond
FW3F = Fire
FW3G = Gold
FW3I = Cast Iron
FW3Iv = Ivory
FW3L = Lead
FW3Le = Lexan
FW3M = Mokume
FW3Met = Meteorite
FW3Mg = Magnesium
FW3Mo = Moissanite
FW3N = Naked
FW3O = Osmium
FW3Ob = Obsidian
FW3P = Platinum
FW3P la = Plaskon
FW3PP = Personal Preference
FW3PSk = PlaySkool (kids version help's identify future flasholics & modders.)
FW3PW = Petrified Wood
FW3R = Rubber
FW3RS = Red Stag
FW3S = Stainless
FW3SaS = Sambar Stag
FW3SS = Sterling Silver
FW3St = Stellite
FW3T = Titanium
FW3TD = Tracking Device
FW3Tim = Timascus
FW3Tu = Tungsten
FW3U D = Uranium - Depleted
FW3V = Vibram
FW3W 1/2 = Walrus (1 = Baculum / 2 = Ivory)
FW3WT = Warthog Tusk
FW3W = Wood
FW3XXX = Cheap fake/knockoff copy of FW3A. Key word, 'cheap'. Use as loaner light.
FW3Zn = Zinc

_

Special Order / Ready for purchase _In your dreams_. :wink:

  • FW3UN = Unoptainium

_
Use within attention to CAUTION listed

  • FW3Ga = Galluim

_
Caution & Protective Gear Required

Could be & probably Will Be HAZARDOUS to Health & Life!!

..!..USE AT YOUR OWN RISK & PERIL….!.

  • FW3PL = Plutonium
  • FW3U R = Uranium - Raw

_
…………….FOR COMPLETELY HOMEMADE LIGHTS ONLY…………….

TRY TO USE ONLY IF YOU HAVE A DEATH WISH, BECAUSE YOU WILL DIE

YES…. DIE!! GRAVE YARD DEAD. YOU WILL MOST LIKELY BE IN TINY BITS.

  • FW3AA = Azidoazide Azide

_
SciFi Models

  • FW3Ad = Adamantium
  • FW3CD = Carbon Dioxide
  • FW3DG = Dragon Glass
  • FW3DI = Dry Ice
  • FW3Kr = Kryptonite
  • FW3LN = Liquid Nitro
  • FW3Mi = Mithril
  • FW3MF = “Mr. Fusion” (power source)
  • FW3TAl = Transparent Aluminum
  • FW3Vi = Vibranium

_
PENDING

  • FW3XX = ???

Please Note:

  • 1. If your model or suggestion was omitted, my apologies; I simply overlooked it.
  • 2. THE LIST will be update until the FW3A is announced for sale. After that there will be no further updates. :frowning: . It will be time at that point to get real serious about reading the “I ordered mine.” or “I ordered 3.” , etc., etc. posts. :wink:

………

Please …… Do Not “Quote” this looooong post. . Thank you. :+1:

……
Added…. 22 February 2019

  • FW3AC = Apple Coral (Melithea)
  • FW3DG = Dragon Glass
  • FW3F = Fire (an even cheaper copy of the FW3XXX. Use at own risk.)
  • FW3Iv = Ivory
  • FW3Ob = Obsidian
  • FW3PP = Personal Preference (have it your way... everything is optional)
  • FW3PW = Petrified Wood
  • FW3RS = Red Stag
  • FW3SaS = Sambar Stag
  • FW3W 1/2 = Walrus (1 = Baculum / 2 = Ivory)
  • FW3WT = Warthog Tusk
  • FW3Zn = Zinc

:smiley: :+1:

That list cracks me up. TY Teach.

Thanks for the reply TK
I have an 18650 A6 with a reverse clip on a cap that I keep on a nail by the door. I use it more frequently than any other light(including Emisars). Although the business end hangs over a bit, weight is not a problem if the cap is ‘secure’. I dont think the FW3A is as long. I was hoping someone might know a good supplier for clips that are similar this one that I could mod. If it involves more than just dremeling the ring, I probably wont go to the trouble. Anyone?

Thanks

Isn’t it a little difficult to use a tail switch on a baseball-cap light? It seems like it would be a lot easier to use a side switch. Instead of a FW3A, for that purpose I’d probably try an Olight S2 or similar.

FW3DG = Dragon Glass……Winter is Coming!

Not really with the 18650 A6 but I also tried it with a 18350 short tube and that does carry better but at the cost of runtime. The longer tube really isnt that bad when you need two hands.

You know I agree that generally the dual direction clip is a great theory that fails in execution and real use, mostly due to overall thickness and poor shape. The FW3A though has a really good chance to change that with the tapered tube, since the ‘gap’ in head-down mode is ‘inside’ the diameter. As demonstrated in the rendering I quoted, there’s no excessive thickness and it looks very possible to work well. Granted, with that said, I don’t ever carry or utilize this design with tail-switch lights and I don’t wear duck-billed caps (I have other headlamps), but plenty may want one, and I think there is space in the after-market for this design to be offered.

My feelings exactly Cheap Thrills!! :+1: . :smiley: :smiley: . :wink:
_

Your welcome peabody, my pleasure. :beer: . :beer:
It pretty well “cracks me up” too. There has/have certainly been some unique suggestions for sure…… :wink:

_

It is done my BLF friend from Big Sky Country!!! . . . :+1:

Are we now officially back from 67mm to 66mm in battery length?

It has always been 66mm hasn’t it??
From the OP??

The FW3A

Small elegant EDC triple flashlight designed by Fritz15

  • Runs on a single 18650 battery.
  • 92.5 × 25.5 mm: Unusually small for an 18650 light — about the size of a SK-68 (1xAA).
  • Battery size: 18mm x 65mm (66mm maximum). Protected cells won’t fit.
  • Tail e-switch.
  • Wide range from ~0.3 lm to ~3000 lm.
  • Regulated output up to ~1000 lm.
  • Fancy yet easy UI.
  • Nice clip firmly attached.
  • Good ergonomics.

It doesnt say tho specific if button top cells will fit or not ?

Maybe they will, maybe they won’t.
If they are not over 66mm, the way I read it; they should fit.
If they are over 66mm, they probably will not fit.

Wouldn’t the fake/knockoff be called FW3fire…?

Also I didn’t find my own personal led preference (because it’s better than everybody else’s preference :wink: ), I want lightsaber green, please :innocent: …. for just such occasions I need to defend myself against Tusken Raiders (sand people).

Point taken pinkpanda3310. As ’keeper of THE LIST…. it is my aim to register any & all requests…… yours have been added. :+1: . :smiley: :smiley: :smiley:

  • FW3F = Fire
  • FW3PP = Personal Preference

Good luck with those “Tusken Raiders” too……. :wink::beer:

There was never a promise of 67mm, as far as I’m aware. Battery size was only specified as “18650” until mid-2018, when I added “maximum 66mm” to the OP. The only prior mention of 67mm was this comment, which was not official or correct. I have no idea where that number came from. Anyway, old snapshots are available on archive.org if anyone would like to see how the first post looked in the past.

However, in proto4, it’s really more of a maximum of 65mm. But I’m hoping Lumintop can fix that because the reduction from 66mm to 65mm was only caused by a manufacturing error.

I will take one.

Maybe it will sound strange but am I the only one who thinks that almost two years for flashlight development and putting into production is way too long? I really dont understand why it take so long and why there is no feedback from manufacturer and members who assist in development (and production?) process about schedule of production and actual date it will be ready for purchase?
Looking to the specs its probably best ever EDC light that will (hopefully) be available (also direct competitor to Emisar D4 and many other similar lights), so I assume for manufacturer and development team this need to be priority number one. Instead it looks like manufacturer is not interested (maybe initial price calculation is wrong or other reason?).
Again, looking to the specs, its clear that this light will be one of the best available (for that price) and manufacturer should know that as sooner it will be available for purchase, more lights will sell.
Sorry if this all sounds dumb. I dont know anything about production, just wanted to know why its soooo long.

A few reasons:

  • Turnover. None of the original project members are still involved.
  • Communication issues. Remember when Ford Prefect wrote an entire book about Earth, and his editor shortened it to “mostly harmless”? That sort of thing happens a lot.
  • Getting stuff manufactured in China is complicated. Many surprising things can go wrong.
  • It’s being made by volunteers, not employees.

However, it’s still happening faster than many Kickstarter projects. My experience with those has generally been about 3 or 4 years between buy-in and actual product delivery.

Ok. But what about feedback from manufacturer? As I understand, some production samples where made and sent to few volunteers for testing. I see three reviews, but why there are no information from manufacturer like, what is the status and when they plan to make first 2000 lights? Can someone, who knows better, guess or just ask manufacturer actual status?